1935 Cadillac - GM Heritage Center
1935 Cadillac - GM Heritage Center
1935 Cadillac - GM Heritage Center
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39<br />
BODY<br />
locks and keys of a new design manufactured to<br />
much closer limits than ever before. Close fits<br />
need lubrication.<br />
2. All locks should be lubricated regularly.<br />
The first lubrication should be given before a<br />
new car is delivered and as a part of the regular<br />
1000 mile, lubrication schedule thereafter. Also<br />
make it a part of your regular inspection operation<br />
and wash job. Lubricate all cylinder locks—<br />
ignition, door, tire, trunk compartment, etc.<br />
Recommended Oils and Their Uses<br />
3. Avoid lubricants with a paraffin wax base<br />
or drying lubricants that leave a wax or gummy<br />
film after drying, that congeal or that freeze<br />
easily in cold weather.<br />
Suggested lubricants follow:<br />
(a) Use light oil, such as 3-in-One, Finol,<br />
Sewing Machine oil, typewriter oil or any<br />
of the light recognized oils.<br />
4. This oil may be applied by the usual gun<br />
method by squirting in key hole or putting oil on<br />
the key and inserting it several times to carry<br />
the oil into the cylinder. After the operation is<br />
completed wipe the key off so that the oil will not<br />
be carried into pockets and purses.<br />
5. Regular penetrating oils, paraffin wax base<br />
oils and dry lubricants should not be used.<br />
HARD ENTERING<br />
KEYS<br />
6. Occasionally locks will be found where the<br />
keys do not enter easily. If this difficulty cannot<br />
be remedied by lubricating, check the following:<br />
(a) Burrs on Key—Check and remove burrs on<br />
keys, if any. Burrs may be removed by a<br />
mill file.<br />
(b) Burrs on Sleeve—Checking for and removing<br />
burr on sliding dust cover, if any.<br />
(c) Key Insertion—Make sure key is fully<br />
inserted before trying to turn.<br />
(d) Freezing—Due to Water in Cold Weather—<br />
In cold weather keys may enter hard because<br />
of ice or frost that is formed within the lock.<br />
Application of heat for a moment or so, by<br />
applying a cigar lighter, match or even the<br />
warmth of the hand will usually free it.<br />
Fig. 3. With the plunger of an ignition or tire lock<br />
cylinder depressed by inserting a wire in the hole of<br />
the cylinder, turn the key clockwise and pull outward to<br />
remove the cylinder.<br />
This condition can be greatly relieved by<br />
blowing the water out of the cylinders on<br />
outside locks or any other cylinders, which<br />
may be affected, with an air hose and oiling<br />
as instructed in paragraphs Nos. 3 and 4.<br />
(e) Hard Operating Keys—If key should be<br />
extremely hard to enter, as received from<br />
factory, try cutting a duplicate key from a<br />
partially cut blank, as furnished by the<br />
factory Parts Division, with your regular<br />
Briggs & Stratton key cutting equipment.<br />
REMOVING<br />
LOCKS<br />
7. Door Handle—Remove the cylinder by<br />
removing the retaining pin at the lower end of the<br />
shank and drawing cylinder out with the key<br />
inserted, as shown in Fig. 2.<br />
8. Ignition and Tire Locks—Remove cylinders<br />
by inserting the key in the lock and turning in<br />
clockwise direction until it stops, then insert paper<br />
clip or pointed stiff wire into the hole provided<br />
for the cylinder to dspress the plunger, and continue<br />
to turn in clockwise direction and then pull<br />
out, removing the cylinder, as shown in Fig. 3.<br />
9. Trunk Lock—Remove retainer pin at the<br />
base of the lock with a drift or other small instru-<br />
Pull outward<br />
Fig. 2. To remove a door handle lock cylinder, remove<br />
the retaining pin and pull the cylinder out with the key.<br />
Fig. 4. After removing the pin from a trunk lock, the<br />
cylinder may be pulled out.