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1935 Cadillac - GM Heritage Center

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39<br />

BODY<br />

locks and keys of a new design manufactured to<br />

much closer limits than ever before. Close fits<br />

need lubrication.<br />

2. All locks should be lubricated regularly.<br />

The first lubrication should be given before a<br />

new car is delivered and as a part of the regular<br />

1000 mile, lubrication schedule thereafter. Also<br />

make it a part of your regular inspection operation<br />

and wash job. Lubricate all cylinder locks—<br />

ignition, door, tire, trunk compartment, etc.<br />

Recommended Oils and Their Uses<br />

3. Avoid lubricants with a paraffin wax base<br />

or drying lubricants that leave a wax or gummy<br />

film after drying, that congeal or that freeze<br />

easily in cold weather.<br />

Suggested lubricants follow:<br />

(a) Use light oil, such as 3-in-One, Finol,<br />

Sewing Machine oil, typewriter oil or any<br />

of the light recognized oils.<br />

4. This oil may be applied by the usual gun<br />

method by squirting in key hole or putting oil on<br />

the key and inserting it several times to carry<br />

the oil into the cylinder. After the operation is<br />

completed wipe the key off so that the oil will not<br />

be carried into pockets and purses.<br />

5. Regular penetrating oils, paraffin wax base<br />

oils and dry lubricants should not be used.<br />

HARD ENTERING<br />

KEYS<br />

6. Occasionally locks will be found where the<br />

keys do not enter easily. If this difficulty cannot<br />

be remedied by lubricating, check the following:<br />

(a) Burrs on Key—Check and remove burrs on<br />

keys, if any. Burrs may be removed by a<br />

mill file.<br />

(b) Burrs on Sleeve—Checking for and removing<br />

burr on sliding dust cover, if any.<br />

(c) Key Insertion—Make sure key is fully<br />

inserted before trying to turn.<br />

(d) Freezing—Due to Water in Cold Weather—<br />

In cold weather keys may enter hard because<br />

of ice or frost that is formed within the lock.<br />

Application of heat for a moment or so, by<br />

applying a cigar lighter, match or even the<br />

warmth of the hand will usually free it.<br />

Fig. 3. With the plunger of an ignition or tire lock<br />

cylinder depressed by inserting a wire in the hole of<br />

the cylinder, turn the key clockwise and pull outward to<br />

remove the cylinder.<br />

This condition can be greatly relieved by<br />

blowing the water out of the cylinders on<br />

outside locks or any other cylinders, which<br />

may be affected, with an air hose and oiling<br />

as instructed in paragraphs Nos. 3 and 4.<br />

(e) Hard Operating Keys—If key should be<br />

extremely hard to enter, as received from<br />

factory, try cutting a duplicate key from a<br />

partially cut blank, as furnished by the<br />

factory Parts Division, with your regular<br />

Briggs & Stratton key cutting equipment.<br />

REMOVING<br />

LOCKS<br />

7. Door Handle—Remove the cylinder by<br />

removing the retaining pin at the lower end of the<br />

shank and drawing cylinder out with the key<br />

inserted, as shown in Fig. 2.<br />

8. Ignition and Tire Locks—Remove cylinders<br />

by inserting the key in the lock and turning in<br />

clockwise direction until it stops, then insert paper<br />

clip or pointed stiff wire into the hole provided<br />

for the cylinder to dspress the plunger, and continue<br />

to turn in clockwise direction and then pull<br />

out, removing the cylinder, as shown in Fig. 3.<br />

9. Trunk Lock—Remove retainer pin at the<br />

base of the lock with a drift or other small instru-<br />

Pull outward<br />

Fig. 2. To remove a door handle lock cylinder, remove<br />

the retaining pin and pull the cylinder out with the key.<br />

Fig. 4. After removing the pin from a trunk lock, the<br />

cylinder may be pulled out.

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