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1935 Cadillac - GM Heritage Center

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101<br />

ENGINE<br />

5. Worn Limits for Cylinder Block<br />

When ordering first or second oversize cylinder<br />

blocks from the factory, care should be exercised<br />

in determining the amount of wear on the blocks<br />

returned for exchange as this wear on the replaced<br />

blocks should determine the size of blocks to<br />

order.<br />

If the standard size cylinder blocks show less<br />

than .012 in. wear or out-of-round they may be<br />

returned in exchange for first oversize blocks.<br />

If the wear exceeds .012 in. but is less than .027 in.,<br />

second oversize blocks should be ordered for<br />

installation on the car.<br />

6. Piston Clearance (See Plate 42)<br />

Two feeler ribbons of different thickness should<br />

be used for fitting anodized aluminum pistons.<br />

These ribbons should be from %-inch to J^-inch<br />

wide, and, for convenience, from 8 to 10 inches<br />

long. The thickness for the various series should<br />

be as follows:<br />

Thin Thick<br />

Car Series No. Gauge Gauge<br />

<strong>Cadillac</strong> V-8 002 in. .0025 in.<br />

LaSalle, Cad. V-12, V-16.. .0015 in. .002 in.<br />

The feeler ribbon, the piston and the cylinder<br />

wall should be clean and the ribbon must be<br />

free from kinks and wrinkles when fitting the<br />

pistons.<br />

The ribbon should be exactly in line with the<br />

center of the thrust face during the fitting process<br />

and on the side opposite the vertical slot in the<br />

piston skirt. With the feeler in place in the<br />

cylinder and the piston in its running position, the<br />

piston should drop of its own weight with the thin<br />

feeler and hold tightly in place with the thick<br />

feeler.<br />

For convenience the fit trials may be made with<br />

the upper end of the piston just sufficiently above<br />

the top of the cylinder to hold it with the fingers.<br />

Pistons for the LaSalle 350 are furnished in<br />

five sizes under the following part numbers:<br />

Part No.<br />

Size<br />

1096295.. Standard<br />

1098567 003 in. oversize<br />

1098563 005 in. oversize<br />

1096325 015 in. oversize<br />

1096327 030 in. oversize<br />

IMPORTANT: Before ordering pistons for<br />

replacement, it is extremely important that the<br />

size of the cylinder bores be determined by actual<br />

measurement. This is essential because the cylinder<br />

bore may have been increased by refinishing<br />

and there is no identification to indicate the size<br />

other than by measuring at the time of replacement.<br />

This is the only way to be sure of avoiding<br />

error in ordering.<br />

Oversize V-8, V-12 and V-16 cylinder blocks<br />

will be supplied on an exchange basis.<br />

7. Removing and Installing Piston Pins<br />

To remove a piston pin from the aluminum<br />

alloy pistons, first place the piston in boiling<br />

water to expand the piston pin hole, and then<br />

push the pin out by hand from the smaller side<br />

(the locking screw side) toward the larger side,<br />

opposite the locking screw. See Fig. 33, Plate 42.<br />

An arbor press should never be used under any<br />

circumstances to remove the piston pin. This<br />

procedure would seriously distort or crack the<br />

piston.<br />

When installing a piston pin, the pin should be<br />

lubricated with engine oil and installed with a<br />

light hand push fit in the side opposite the locking<br />

screw with the piston heated to a temperature of<br />

about 70°F. The piston pin should also be a light<br />

hand push fit in the locking screw side of the piston<br />

but with the piston heated to a temperature of<br />

about 200 to 210° F.<br />

8. Removing and Installing Piston Pin<br />

Bushings<br />

The removal and installation of the split-type<br />

piston pin bushings requires the use of special<br />

tools. A kit of tools (Tool No. HMJ-250) is<br />

furnished for this purpose.<br />

The bushing should be removed in an arbor<br />

press and should be started by giving the handle<br />

of the press a sudden jerk instead of a steady<br />

pull. After the bushing is started it will move out<br />

quite freely. The connecting rod should then be<br />

thoroughly cleaned of all chips and dirt.<br />

The bushing cannot be pressed into the connecting<br />

rod in the usual manner. Instead, it is<br />

pressed in the rod and expanded with an expanding<br />

bar to press the bronze into very close contact<br />

with the steel rod. It ig then burnished, leaving<br />

a long hard-wearing bearing surface.<br />

To install a piston pin bushing, proceed as<br />

follows:<br />

(1) Install the bushing in the side of the connecting<br />

rod having the large chamfer in the bearing<br />

for the crank pin. Make sure that the oil<br />

hole in the bushing is in line with the oil hole in<br />

the connecting rod and the split is at right angles<br />

to the length of the rod.<br />

(2) Press bushing in rod using bushing replacer,<br />

tool No. HMJ-250-3. Use a 2 or 3-ton bench<br />

arbor press.<br />

(3) Expand the bushing with Expanding Bar<br />

(Tool No. HMJ-250-1). If the bushing protrudes

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