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Wachau<br />
limits of where viticulture is even possible<br />
in the Wachau. The extremely steep primary<br />
rock terraces of this site yield exquisitely<br />
cool and elegant wines. The Burgweingarten<br />
in Dürnstein has also been come into<br />
the hands of this aspirational vintner. This<br />
is the last vineyard within the city walls of<br />
Dürnstein. The steeply climbing stone terraces<br />
permit manual labour only. The intense<br />
toil necessary for the “Dürnsteiner<br />
Burg” proves very worthwhile. The result is<br />
an exceptional Riesling with deep and complex<br />
structure.<br />
(96) Riesling Ried Dürnsteiner Burg<br />
Reserve 2017<br />
97 Riesling Ried Dürnsteiner Burg<br />
Reserve 2016<br />
Pale green-yellow with silver highlights. Delicate peach, subtle<br />
orange marmalade, dark minerality and a touch of blossom<br />
honey. Juicy, yet firm with pleasant fruit sweetness<br />
framed in a taut acid structure. Marvellous length, finesse and<br />
persistent minerality. Extraordinary potential for the future.<br />
(96) Riesling Smaragd Ried Kalkofen 2017<br />
96 Riesling Smaragd Kalkofen 2016<br />
Medium green-yellow with silver highlights. Ripe pineapple<br />
and delicate herbal spice mingle with mandarin zest and inviting<br />
exotic fruit nuances. This cool and elegantly styled<br />
wine exhibits delicate fruit sweetness in a taut, juicy frame of<br />
acid. Pleasant tropical fruit lingers on the very long finish.<br />
Superb ageing potential.<br />
(95) Riesling Smaragd<br />
Ried 1000-Eimerberg 2017<br />
95 Riesling Smaragd 1000-Eimerberg 2016<br />
(93) Riesling Smaragd Ried Setzberg 2017<br />
95 Riesling Smaragd Ried Setzberg 2016<br />
(95) Grüner Veltliner Smaragd<br />
Ried Singerriedel 2017<br />
95 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd<br />
Singerriedel 2016<br />
(94) Grüner Veltliner Smaragd<br />
Ried Hochrain 2017<br />
95 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Hochrain 2016<br />
(94) Grüner Veltliner Smaragd<br />
Ried Loibenberg 2017<br />
94 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd<br />
Ried Loibenberg 2016<br />
(93) Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Ried Steinporz 2017<br />
93 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Ried Steinporz 2016<br />
(92) Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Ried Klaus 2017<br />
92 Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Klaus 2016<br />
(91) Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Kirchpoint 2017<br />
92 Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Kirchpoint 2016<br />
91 Grüner Veltliner Federspiel kalmuck<br />
Wachau 2017<br />
(95) Neuburger Smaragd<br />
Ried 1000-Eimerberg 2017<br />
94 Neuburger Smaragd<br />
Ried 1000-Eimerberg 2016<br />
(94) Sauvignon Blanc Smaragd<br />
Ried Hartberg 2017<br />
93 Sauvignon Blanc Smaragd<br />
Ried Hartberg 2016<br />
SSSSS<br />
WEINGUT<br />
FRANZ<br />
HIRTZBERGER<br />
Family Hirtzberger cultivates some of<br />
the very best sites in the Wachau near<br />
the wine village of Spitz. The terraced<br />
site Singerriedel, located directly behind the<br />
old, picturesque vintner house has brought<br />
the estate nearly legendary fame for its magnificent<br />
Riesling. The Ried Hochrain is yet<br />
another famous Riesling site which can certainly<br />
be considered a “grand cru” of Austria.<br />
The Honivogel vineyard is to Grüner Veltliner<br />
what Singerriedel is to Riesling. New in the<br />
assortment is the Grüner Veltliner from the<br />
Kirchweg vineyard in Wösendorf. Father<br />
Franz and son Franz jr. complement one another<br />
perfectly in the vineyard and cellar,<br />
which is reflected in the entire assortment of<br />
wines. Franz junior has now taken responsi-<br />
WINE GUIDE <strong>2018</strong><br />
falstaff<br />
169
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