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Ultimate Wine Guide 2018/19

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WHITE WINE VARIETIES<br />

frosts, and even against humidity. On the other<br />

hand, it ripens too early. The resulting wine<br />

has no particular bouquet, tends to be of high<br />

alcohol content, and is mild in acidity. The<br />

Frühroter Veltliner is by no means a trendy<br />

variety and makes up only 0.9 % of the Austrian<br />

vineyards.<br />

FURMINT<br />

This rare variety originates from the Tokaj region<br />

in north-eastern Hungary. It is the main<br />

component of the Hungarian Tokaji wine and<br />

has noth ing to do with the Tokay d’Alsace. In<br />

Austria it is encountered almost exclusively in<br />

Burgenland, particularly in the region around<br />

Rust where it is experiencing a small renaissance.<br />

The Furmint is demand ing of its location<br />

and requires warm, well-drained soils. It<br />

is sensitive to oidium, but has good resistance<br />

to botrytis. The wine is yellow-green when fermented<br />

dry and golden yellow in colour when<br />

sweet. It is intense in bouquet, often reminiscent<br />

of chamomile and quince, usually high in<br />

alcohol, and possesses racy acidity. Because it<br />

can achieve high degrees of extract and alcohol,<br />

it is very well suited to vinification of<br />

sweet predicated wines.<br />

GELBER MUSKATELLER<br />

Synonym: Muscat Blanc á petits grains<br />

Muscat is usually fermented dry in Austria and<br />

comprises a fragrant, light aperitif wine with<br />

refreshing acidity. Muscat has been documented<br />

in the Wachau since 1400. This variety also<br />

has a long tradition in Steiermark and Burgenland,<br />

yet the vineyard area remains very small<br />

since it is extremely susceptible to rot. It is very<br />

demanding of its location, sensitive to frost<br />

and fungal attacks, matures late, but is suitable<br />

for almost any soil, except lime. In addition to<br />

racy, fragrant, light, dry wines, fascinating<br />

sweet wines are also made from this variety in<br />

Austria. The best sweet examples can age for<br />

decades.<br />

GEWÜRZTRAMINER<br />

Synonyms: Roter Traminer,<br />

Gelber Traminer, Traminer<br />

In Austria, Traminer finds its most significant<br />

dissemination in Burgenland, the Thermenregion,<br />

and Steiermark. It is very demanding<br />

of its location and soil, has a low tolerance<br />

for lime, and is sensitive to frost. The wine<br />

typically displays an intense medium yellow<br />

to golden-yellow colour, occasionally with a<br />

slightly reddish shimmer. The fragrance is intense<br />

and reminiscent of rose petals and<br />

marshmallow. Gewürztraminer achieves its<br />

best quality in the upper predicated sweet<br />

wine categories and is quite capable of extended<br />

ageing. Despite being considered a<br />

noble, aristocratic wine, it is not currently<br />

the trend among consumers. Fortunately<br />

there is a committed community of fans, and<br />

its continued existence in Austria is secured.<br />

GRAUER BURGUNDER<br />

Synonyms: Ruländer, Pinot Gris<br />

This noble variety stems from Burgundy and<br />

was brought into Austria and Hungary in the<br />

14th century by Cistercian monks. Its highest<br />

density can be found in north ern Burgenland,<br />

where the Cistercians were once very diligent<br />

viticulturists. Pinot Gris requires deep soils<br />

that are rich in nutrients and a good welldrained<br />

location with regular access to a good<br />

supply of water. Fruit maturity is reached relatively<br />

soon, however the vintage is usually<br />

not until the beginning of October. A wine<br />

with an intensive golden-yellow colour that<br />

sometimes has a mild reddish shimmer and a<br />

delicious varietal bouquet with a touch of<br />

honey. It is typically full bodied and can reach<br />

high levels of alcohol. It currently makes up<br />

less than 0.5 % of Austrian vineyards.<br />

WINE GUIDE <strong>2018</strong><br />

falstaff<br />

<strong>19</strong>

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