Ultimate Wine Guide 2018/19

AUSTRIA’S 
GRAPE VARIETIES
fränkisch wines are vinified according to international
models in new French oak barrels and
are often blended with small quantities of Cabernet
Sauvignon or Merlot. Blaufränkisch
thrives best on the west and south sides of
Lake Neusiedl in Burgenland an also finds suitable
locations in Carnuntum in Niederösterreich
(Lower Austria). The best sites in Südburgenland
are located in the Eisenberg DAC.
Mittelburgenland is also referred to as
“Blaufränkischland”, and this is the predominant
variety in prime vineyards in Neckenmarkt,
Horitschon, and Deutschkreutz. Farther
north on the west side of Lake Neusiedl in
the Neusiedlersee-Hügelland wine-growing
area and the Leithaberg DAC, Blaufränksich
brings exquisite results from marine limestone
and mica-schist soils slopes. It is here that the
vintner Ernst Triebaumer crafted Austria’s first
hallmark wine in 1986 from the single vineyard
Marienthal. This legendary wine, although
almost completely exhausted, rings a
bell for every Austrian wine buff.
ZWEIGELT
Synonyms: Blauer Zweigelt, Rotburger
The variety with the intense cherry fruit aromas
and flavours is an Austrian crossing and
by far the most widely planted red vine variety
in the country and the second most prolific variety
after Grüner Veltliner. It grows in all Austrian
wine-growing regions on 6,476 ha, covering
14.1% of the total area under vine. This
successful grape goes back to Professor Fritz
Zweigelt (1888–1964), who developed this
cross of Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent at the
ederal College and Research Centre for Viticulture
and Pomology Klosterneuburg in
1922. Although the name Zweigelt may appear
justified in honour of the originator, it has
turned out to be a real tongue twister for
non-German speaking people. The oenologist
himself in a more self-effacing manner chose
the designation Rotburger – to the credit of
the place where it all came about. He was referring
to “red from Klosterneuburg”. The
name “Blaue Zweigeltrebe” was officially introduced
in 1975 upon intervention of another
one of Austria’s winegrow ing pioneers –
Lenz Moser, founder of the widely used high
culture training system. The reasons why the
Zweigelt grape is so popular among vintners
are manifold: it is frost-resistant, ripens early,
sets no special demands on location or soil,
and has proved to be rela tively disease resistant.
Consumers appreciate Zweigelt for its vibrant
fruitiness that bursts with fresh amarelle
cherry flavour. Some of the very best Zweigelts
come from the Neusiedlersee DAC on the east
side of Lake Neusiedl in Burgenland and from
Carnuntum to the north in Niederösterreich,
but the variety finds well suited locations
throughout Austria’s wine regions. Weather
easy-drinking approachable examples or more
complex oak-matured growths, Zweigelt is
the indisputable crowd-pleaser among Austria’s
black grape varieties. Quite frequently,
the best lots of Zweigelt are added to a winemaker’s
master blend.
ROESLER
This new variety was developed by Dr. Gertraud
Mayer at the Federal Viticulture Research
Centre Klosterneuburg and the vine
nursery Langenzersdorf. The crossing of
Zweigelt x Sevye-Villard 18-402 x Blaufränkisch
is named after the former director of
Austria’s oldest viticultural college and research
centre, Leonard Roesler. The variety
brings not only interesting aromas, deep
colour, and abundant extract, it is also advantageous
for vintners in cooler regions. The variety
is quite frost resistant and can withstand
temperatures of up to –25° C (–13° F) and is
also resis tant to both mildew varieties.
© provided
24 falstaff WINE GUIDE 2018