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Ultimate Wine Guide 2018/19

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EDITORIAL<br />

<br />

DEAR READERS,<br />

DEAR FRIENDS<br />

OF AUSTRIAN WINE<br />

Peter Moser<br />

It was 16 years ago now that I first wrote<br />

this English language guide dedicated to<br />

Austrian wine and producers who concentrate<br />

on exporting their wines outside the<br />

country. These passionate vintners fulfil important<br />

roles as ambassadors of quality making<br />

the wines produced in our little Alpine Republic<br />

known throughout the world. Grape varieties<br />

such as Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, St. Laurent<br />

and Blaufränkisch have championed the<br />

hearts of wine lovers around the world. Although<br />

the volume of wine produced in Austria<br />

is barely enough to fulfil the demands of<br />

the domestic market, the share of wine exportations<br />

continues to grow. Despite a slight decline<br />

in export volume due to the small 2016<br />

harvest, the export year 2017 exceeded all expectations.<br />

With a steep increase in export values,<br />

the 150-million mark was cracked for the<br />

first time at 158.6 million euros. The average<br />

price per litre achieved a new all-time high. The<br />

former “Grosslage” Rosalia, just south of the<br />

Leitha Mountains in the heart of Burgenland is<br />

now Austria’s eleventh DAC protected designation<br />

of origin. Typical regional wines will appear<br />

under “Rosalia DAC” and “Rosalia DAC<br />

Reserve” in the future, while unique regional<br />

rosé wines will be labelled “Rosalia DAC<br />

Rosé”. A new quality pyramid for Austrian<br />

Sekt (sparkling wine with a minimum of 3 bars<br />

pressure in the bottle) has been created with<br />

three levels: Klassik, Reserve and Große Reserve.<br />

With the purchase of an Austrian Sekt<br />

with protected designation of origin, one has<br />

not only a wine of documented pedigree, but<br />

also a guarantee that the highest standards<br />

have been observed in its production. The term<br />

“sustainable” is no longer just a slogan in Austria<br />

and it is pleasing that Austrian vintners are<br />

so ambitious when it comes to environmental<br />

protection in their choice of production methods.<br />

Our winegrowers are environmentally<br />

conscious and demonstrate this in the way they<br />

care for their greatest capital, their vineyards.<br />

As of 2015 Austrian vintners now have the<br />

possibility to abtain official verification for sustainable<br />

vineyard cultivation methods and label<br />

their wines with the seal “certified sustainable<br />

Austria”. A trend in “new” vinification<br />

techniques witnesses vintners returning to old<br />

methods. Whether Sauvignon Blanc, Grüner<br />

Veltliner, Riesling, or St. Laurent one can observe<br />

experiments with vini fication in clay amphora,<br />

an ancient production method from<br />

Georgia where “Kvevri” have been used since<br />

the Neolithic period. There are experimental<br />

wines being produced in multiple variations<br />

with minimal intervention, even without sulphur<br />

dioxide. “Natural” and “orange” wines<br />

remain rare, but their number is growing. And<br />

that is a good thing. New taste variations are<br />

being explored and an alternative world of<br />

WINE GUIDE <strong>2018</strong><br />

falstaff<br />

5

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