Ultimate Wine Guide 2018/19

SSSSS
WEINGUT
KNOLL
WEINGUT KNOLL
3601 Dürnstein
Unterloiben 132
T: +43 (2732) 79355, F: ext. -5
weingut@knoll.at
www.knoll.at
Winemaker: Emmerich Knoll
Contact: Knoll family
Production:
98 % white, 1 % red, 1 % sweet
18 Hectares
Fairs:
ProWein, VieVinum
Distribution partners:
AUS, IT, RUS, JP, SE, CDN, CH, BE,
ROK, SGP, LV, SK, LT, DK, LU, ES, DE,
EST, FIN, TH, FR, NZ, CZ, NL, GB,
NO, USA, IRL, CY
Wachau
Weingut Knoll has produced so
many cult wines over the last decades
that it would not be a problem
to fill an entire book with their tasting
notes. The Knoll wine label enjoys cult status
and has fortunately remained unaltered over
the last decades. In the winery, on the other
hand, much has happened. A completely new
winery was built directly behind the old one in
2014. A tunnel connects the new facility with
the old, historic cellar. There is now plenty of
space for up to 30 different wines that are produced
each year. The Knolls are not fans of
fleshy, overpowering wines. It is their stated
goal to express the fine details of terroir each
year. The resulting wines are uncompromising
and highly detailed. The enthusiastic Emmerich
Knoll junior travelled far and wide while
gaining practical experience and manages the
estate together with his father Emmerich
Knoll senior. Emmerich junior has also been
the chairman of the Vinea Wachau vintner association
since 2012. Father and son cultivate
sites in the famous vineyards Schütt, Loibenberg,
Kellerberg, Kreutles, and Pfaffenberg.
The vineyards are planted primarily with Riesling
and Grüner Veltliner, which make up
45 % each of the total vineyard area and are
responsible for numerous different bottlings.
The remaining 10 % is planted with Chardonnay,
Gelber Muskateller (Muscat Blanc à petits
grains), Gelber Traminer (a rare local clone
of Gewürztraminer), and Blauburgunder (Pinot
Noir). Noble sweet wines up to the highest
category, Trockenbeerenauslese, are also included
in the assortment when weather conditions
permit botrytized grapes to be selected.
These exquisite wines are highly sought rarities.
The Knolls practice the admirable policy
of waiting until September of the year following
harvest to release their Smaragd and dessert
wines, allowing them time to rest and mature
in the cool cellar over the summer months.
The Knoll wines are often considered late
bloomers (not true) and to be worthy of ageing
(very true). If one were to reduce the essence
of Knoll, “Schütt” would be the quintessential
vineyard and “Vinothekfüllung” the
very best quality Grüner Veltliner and Riesling
possible.
(96) Loibner Riesling Smaragd
Vinothekfüllung 2017
96 Loibner Riesling Smaragd
Vinothekfüllung 2016
Pale green-yellow with silver highlights. Makes a rather restrained
impression, but reveals ripe yellow peach, subtle
pineapple and fresh orange zest. Power meets elegance in
a silky textured full body with fine, sweet greengage plum
and apricot notes. A concentrated style with a very long
finish and superb ageing potential.
96 Riesling Smaragd Loibner
Vinothekfüllung 2015
(95) Riesling Smaragd Ried Schütt 2017
97 Riesling Smaragd Ried Schütt 2016
Pale green-yellow with silver highlights. A multifaceted
bouquet exhibits attractive tropical fruit notes reminiscent
of pineapple and passion fruit wrapped in a delicate veil of
blossom honey and minerals. Complex and tautly structured.
Citrus and litchi linger with salty minerals on the incredibly
long finish. Very appetizing and already harmonious,
but certainly not lacking in potential for a very long
future.
95 Riesling Smaragd Ried Schütt 2015
WINE GUIDE 2018
falstaff
175