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THE LATIN AMERICAN FASHION READER, Regina A. Root, ed., New York: Berg Publishers, 2005. Brian Turner Randolph-Macon College The Latin American Fashion Reader, edited by Regina A. Root, Associate Professor of Hispanic Studies at The College of William and Mary, received the Arthur P. Whitaker Prize at the MACLAS XXVII in Ponce, Puerto Rico, for the best book published by a MACLAS member in 2004-2005. The volume is the first to focus on Latin America in the Berg series “Dress, Body, Culture.” It includes seventeen essays by specialists in history, anthropology, literature, women’s studies, textiles and clothing, design and merchandising, and Latin American studies and civilization. The essays range cross-temporally from the colonial period to the contemporary fashion industry. While covering an extraordinary range of topics and cultural forms, the volume successfully weaves together the authors’ sophisticated theoretical and interdisciplinary approaches. The book is organized into four multi-essay parts. Part one focuses on the use of dress in colonial and early republican societies to mark ethnic, national, and gender identities. Root’s essay, “Fashioning Independence: Gender, Dress and Social Space in Postcolonial Argentina,” identifies women’s use, and according to some observers abuse, of the giant peinetón, or comb, as an adornment. With the peinetón, Root argues, women asserted their place in the republican social order. That politicized assertion provoked its backlash, and by the 1830s its use was interpreted by critics as immoral and anti-government. Araceli Tinajero’s “Far Eastern Influences in Latin American Fashions” covers much more historical time, reminding us that what we now call ‘globalization’ began at least as early as the establishment of the Manila-Acapulco trade in the sixteenth century, and its cultural forms have influenced Latin American fashion in a wide variety of ways. The essays in part two provide nuanced explorations of “altered traditions” of indigenous textile production, demonstrating that indigenous people have agency in their interactions with the global tourist trade. Far from mourning the loss of meaningful traditions, essays such as Blenda Femenías’ “‘Why do Gringos Like Black’ Mourning Tourism, and Changing Fashions in Peru,” and Elyse Demaray, Melody Keim-Shenk, and Mary A. Littrell’s “Representations of Tradition in Latin American Boundary Textile Art,” show how highland weavers are capable of promoting ethnic identity as well as commercializing their production, although with a dynamic interplay that does indeed alter the presentation and meaning of identity. Part three, “Fashion and the Cultural Imaginary,” discusses the intersection of fashion and national identity. Ruth Corcuera’s “Ponchos of the 138
River Plate: Nostalgia for Eden” shows that elites have appropriated the poncho to mark Argentine national identity. Dilia López Gydosh and Marsha A. Dickson, in “‘Every Girl had a Fan which she Kept Always in Motion’: Puerto Rican Women’s Dress at a Time of Social and Cultural Transition,” demonstrate that the preservation of certain accessories such as the fan, combined with modern dress imported from the U.S., allowed Puerto Rican women to claim both modernity and a separate national identity. And the commercialization and sexualization of national identity in Brazil are discussed in Rita Andrade’s “Mappin Stores: Adding an English Touch to the São Paulo Fashion Scene” and Nizia Villaça’s “As She Walks to the Sea: A Semiology of Rio de Janeiro,” respectively. The transgression of identity through dress is the topic of part four, “Mediation and Consumption.” Marilyn Miller (“Guayaberismo and the Essence of Cool”) shows how the guayabera maintains its “cool” in various socio-political settings, while the “faces” of “Salvadoranness” are contrasted in the marketing images of a super model and news images of a salvadoreña domestic servant who was a witness in the 1995 O.J. Simpson trial, in Claudia M. Milian Arias’ “Fashioning United States Salvadoranness: Unveiling the Faces of Christy Turlington and Rosa Lopez.” The essays in this volume are creative without being fanciful. These are scholarly treatments engagingly written and generally quite convincing. The Latin American Fashion Reader will serve as an essential reference in the field for a long time to come. 139
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MACLAS LATIN AMERICAN ESSAYS Volume
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Managing Editor’s Preface The twe
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TEXTILE TRADITION AND NATIONAL IDEN
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ullfights to Easter services. Accor
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are in one color and the design mot
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Paraguayan histories for virtually
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Figure 3. Miss Paraguay competing f
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An alternative myth is more indigen
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Schneider, Jane 1987 The Anthropolo
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The Jimmy Carter Administration (19
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the indigenous population, which mi
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presidency and, in coalition with t
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The 2000 municipal elections, separ
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TABLE 2 ELECTION RESULTS SINCE 1994
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several leftist guerrilla movements
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U.S. foreign policy) are permissive
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Artiga González, Álvaro. "El Salv
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Schoultz, Lars. Human Rights and Un
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wide sense of the term. 4 They incl
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and Psychological School of Law is
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explanations raising doubts about t
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solidarity and zeal for internation
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provides the flexibility necessary
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“. . . to codify American Interna
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2 Contrary to colonialism and imper
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33 See Gómez Robledo (1960, 21-22)
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Sánchez i Sánchez, Carlos Augusto
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apuntó el sentido “paródico”
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desorientado ante la afirmación
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literaria”: “allí donde hay un
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VISUALIZACIONES DE LA MATERNIDAD: H
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like the ones in those other church
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En Colonia II de 1992 (fig.2) Sánc
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isleña. De manera similar a lo que
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5 En su ensayo “The Production an
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el mismo González propuso en La nu
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Bassin, Donna and Honey Margaret, e
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Neumann, Erich. The Great Mother: A
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Estos relatos cuestionan la idea de
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por números. Los habitantes de los
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traductor, no sólo de la lengua, s
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por la esperanza de que al salir de
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Francia en María de Amoreira, o un
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Rosell, Joel Franz. “¿Qué es la
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folletín que Gutiérrez había esc
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Page 137 and 138: OBRA PÚBLICA Marginalidad 1989 199
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