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35053668-Empire-of-the-Soul-Paul-William-Roberts

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126<br />

EMPIRE OF THE SOUL<br />

necklaces were trying very hard to look like part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ga<strong>the</strong>ring,<br />

too. Instead, <strong>the</strong>y looked dreadfully uncomfortable. Music belted<br />

out from a massive PA system set back near <strong>the</strong> shadowed palms<br />

and bushes, perched on raftlike rectangles made from wooden<br />

planks. Someone who sounded very much like Bob Dylan, but<br />

better, was singing something about twisted fate. It was only a week<br />

later that I learned it had been Dylan himself – a new album I’d<br />

never heard, called Blood on <strong>the</strong> Tracks.<br />

Everyone knows you can’t dance to Bob Dylan – you can’t even<br />

hum him – but this didn’t prevent <strong>the</strong> tribes <strong>of</strong> Calangute from<br />

trying. Silhouetted by flames like huge burning curtains, forms<br />

wri<strong>the</strong>d and swayed, hair hanging or flying out in blurred halos,<br />

bells tinkling, beads and pendants and silver chains rattling. Scarves<br />

tied to heads and hands and legs waved like snakes; breasts and<br />

buttocks, some streaked with coloured paint, all slick with sweat,<br />

rolled and shook and swayed.<br />

Es<strong>the</strong>r looked terrified and David looked at <strong>the</strong> scores <strong>of</strong> seminaked<br />

women all around him – until he realised Es<strong>the</strong>r was watching<br />

him. ‘Woodstock – slight reprise,’ she hissed.<br />

Ray had gone to talk to a couple who looked as prosperous as he<br />

did compared to most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r white tribals. Debbie was nowhere<br />

to be seen.<br />

‘Feed your head, man,’ a skinny blond boy advised me, bobbing<br />

past, shaking matted curly locks, waving a smouldering joint <strong>the</strong><br />

size <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Olympic torch.<br />

‘Pity I forgot to pack <strong>the</strong> freak flag,’ said Es<strong>the</strong>r. ‘We could be<br />

waving it high now.’<br />

Hashish was clearly just <strong>the</strong> aperitif here, too. Whenever you see<br />

people unusually interested in <strong>the</strong>ir own hands, waving <strong>the</strong>m slowly<br />

back and forth in front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir faces as if expecting soap bubbles to<br />

stream from <strong>the</strong>ir fingertips, you know <strong>the</strong>re are powerful<br />

psychedelics on <strong>the</strong> job. As Jimi Hendrix played <strong>the</strong> plaintive solo<br />

from ‘Little Wing,’ a girl wearing only vast silver bracelets came<br />

and stood about six feet away, staring at me. Her hair and skin were<br />

so wet – droplets reflecting <strong>the</strong> firelight streaming down her body<br />

like golden honey – that she must have been swimming, not<br />

sweating. Stock-still, arms hanging by her sides, she did not even

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