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35053668-Empire-of-the-Soul-Paul-William-Roberts

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‘IT IS NOT MY FIRE THAT BURN YOU HERE’<br />

gods, <strong>of</strong> a goddess who devours human skulls, <strong>of</strong> gods who destroy;<br />

and <strong>the</strong> propitiation <strong>of</strong> demonic forces, fertility figures, entities with<br />

power over natural elements. Downtown Benares makes<br />

Hieronymous Bosch look like Norman Rockwell. And it’s real –<br />

not an ethnic spectacle laid on for tourists used to visiting dead<br />

cultures and having <strong>the</strong>m revived for <strong>the</strong>ir entertainment.<br />

I confess it delighted me to see a retired New York lawyer and his<br />

wife stagger from <strong>the</strong>ir taxi after a tour <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ghats, clo<strong>the</strong>s mangled<br />

by sweat, hair wilted, sensibility smacked around, eyes full <strong>of</strong> abject<br />

terror. I feel like that after a day in New York.<br />

‘I need this,’ said Irving, pouring down a Scotch.<br />

‘Give me ano<strong>the</strong>r, would you, darling?’ Jo asked <strong>the</strong> bartender,<br />

shoving her glass toward him for more vodka.<br />

‘Jeez!’ Irving sighed, looking my way. ‘What a place! Have you<br />

been down <strong>the</strong>re yet?’<br />

I asked down where.<br />

‘You know,’ Jo answered. ‘By <strong>the</strong> river. Those filthy little alleys . . .’<br />

‘The noise,’ Irving added. ‘The crowds. Those awful temples <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>irs . . .’<br />

‘The smell!’ Jo continued. ‘All those people! Pushing, shoving . . .<br />

And have you seen what’s in those places? I mean – what are <strong>the</strong>y<br />

called, Irving? – idols, that’s what I mean. Idols! It’s so darn primitive.<br />

Isn’t it?’<br />

‘Why?’ I asked.<br />

‘The gods, <strong>the</strong> . . . well, <strong>the</strong>, er . . .’<br />

‘Penises,’ Jo added. ‘He means <strong>the</strong> penises.’<br />

‘And <strong>the</strong> animals, dear. The awful-looking thing with <strong>the</strong> tongue,<br />

too.’<br />

‘What do you worship?’ I asked.<br />

‘We’re Jewish, dear,’ Jo replied.<br />

‘But what do you worship?’<br />

There was a lengthy pause. Then Irving said, ‘God, <strong>of</strong> course.’<br />

It would be unfair to say that this was a typical exchange, but it<br />

was not untypical, ei<strong>the</strong>r. The same conversation with practising<br />

Christians – and I’ve had many – would become much more heated.<br />

With Roman Catholics in particular, it would be positively blazing.<br />

Try pointing out that Hinduism never rejected <strong>the</strong> teachings <strong>of</strong><br />

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