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35053668-Empire-of-the-Soul-Paul-William-Roberts

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254<br />

EMPIRE OF THE SOUL<br />

India, and husbands are still frequently decades older than <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

brides.<br />

Hearing all this was <strong>the</strong> last straw for Bentley. He crept <strong>of</strong>f to <strong>the</strong><br />

shadows <strong>of</strong> a cenotaph interior and lay on <strong>the</strong> cool stone floor,<br />

breathing heavily, waving away all <strong>of</strong>fers <strong>of</strong> drinks and medication.<br />

Even <strong>the</strong> cameleers muttered anxiously among <strong>the</strong>mselves, pointing<br />

to where <strong>the</strong> photographer had crawled looking as if he’d decided<br />

an empty tomb was exactly where he needed to be.<br />

I wandered <strong>the</strong> avenues <strong>of</strong> chattris, worried and not sure what to<br />

do. The Moghul architectural style <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cenotaphs, high on raised<br />

stone platforms, with <strong>the</strong>ir ornately worked, slightly drooping ribbed<br />

stone canopies, <strong>the</strong>ir magnificent octagons <strong>of</strong> monolithic fluted<br />

columns, had remained virtually unaltered for over five hundred<br />

years. Each bore an inscribed tablet bearing <strong>the</strong> death date <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

monarch in whose memory it had been erected. Yet <strong>the</strong> last<br />

maharajah commemorated here – cremated, alone, in 1982 – had<br />

only a crude low brick wall for a memorial, sloppily fenced in with<br />

rusty barbed wire, containing only somewhat mysterious<br />

ear<strong>the</strong>nware pots and two sad little faded photographs in cheap<br />

frames.<br />

‘No skilled craftsmen and no money now,’ Hoppy explained<br />

mournfully. It seemed a partial truth. The real explanation flapped<br />

in <strong>the</strong> prayer rags tied to <strong>the</strong> fence wire by those faithful few who<br />

still believed <strong>the</strong>ir maharaja was a god, able now to answer petitions<br />

from his new throne in paradise. Although <strong>the</strong> princely titles have<br />

<strong>of</strong>ficially been abolished, <strong>the</strong> royal families <strong>of</strong> today continue to<br />

command a deep loyalty and respect from <strong>the</strong>ir subjects – now called<br />

voters – that threatens <strong>the</strong> modern democratic political process. The<br />

real truth about this humble tomb was that lavish funerals and <strong>the</strong><br />

erection <strong>of</strong> cenotaphs affirming <strong>the</strong> divine status <strong>of</strong> rajas are<br />

discouraged by <strong>the</strong> nervous commoners running New Delhi.<br />

The quasi-Marxist inclinations <strong>of</strong> Nehru and his daughter, Indira<br />

Gandhi, sought to undermine all traditional Indian institutions<br />

that threatened <strong>the</strong>ir power. And, in once-mighty kingdoms like<br />

those <strong>of</strong> Rajasthan, religion is linked to royalty in a potent medieval<br />

combination that frustrates <strong>the</strong> modern central government. For<br />

instance, maharajas are made into members <strong>of</strong> parliament, elected

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