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35053668-Empire-of-the-Soul-Paul-William-Roberts

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‘EUROPEANS ARE COMING TO MY COUNTRY NOW’<br />

working continuously for 18 hours daily in <strong>the</strong> Hotel and are<br />

positively <strong>the</strong> hardest worked and most satisfactory running Lifts<br />

in India.’<br />

Then <strong>the</strong> age <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tourist began, bringing an entirely different<br />

sort <strong>of</strong> guest to <strong>the</strong> Taj. The British were proud <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> jewel in <strong>the</strong><br />

crown <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir empire, and tales <strong>of</strong> its fabled wealth and exotica<br />

lured people irresistibly. In its tone <strong>the</strong> Times reveals <strong>the</strong> attitude<br />

that would typify <strong>the</strong> English response to <strong>the</strong>ir cousins across <strong>the</strong><br />

Atlantic:<br />

WORLD TRAVELLERS:<br />

The Americans in Bombay<br />

The invasion <strong>of</strong> Bombay by <strong>the</strong> large party <strong>of</strong> Americans<br />

travelling round <strong>the</strong> world in <strong>the</strong> SS Cleveland was completed<br />

on Saturday evening, and for <strong>the</strong> next few days our visitors will<br />

pervade <strong>the</strong> city . . . all <strong>the</strong> tourists who are left in Bombay, 450 in<br />

number, are staying at <strong>the</strong> Taj Mahal Hotel, where special<br />

arrangements <strong>of</strong> an elaborate kind have been made for <strong>the</strong>m . . .<br />

A small army <strong>of</strong> special waiters has been imported, a special<br />

kitchen, special bars, reading rooms, and an ‘American Candy<br />

Store’ have been fitted up. A band plays during tiffin and dinner<br />

each day. By a sensible arrangement, <strong>the</strong> party is kept entirely<br />

separate from <strong>the</strong> ordinary guests <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel, and <strong>the</strong>ir visit<br />

fortunately fits in between <strong>the</strong> weekly rushes in connection with<br />

<strong>the</strong> home-going mail steamers.<br />

In spite <strong>of</strong> all <strong>the</strong>se excellent arrangements, <strong>the</strong> casual observer<br />

would find it difficult to avoid <strong>the</strong> conclusion that <strong>the</strong> Americans<br />

are ‘terribly bored with <strong>the</strong> whole thing.’ A writer in a home<br />

magazine who saw <strong>the</strong>m in Japan speaks <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m as ‘those<br />

cheerless tourists at Yokohama, with <strong>the</strong>ir leaden eyes . . .’<br />

In <strong>the</strong> early 1900s, fortune-tellers and mystics visited India – <strong>the</strong><br />

reverse <strong>of</strong> today’s migration <strong>of</strong> people going to India in search <strong>of</strong><br />

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