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35053668-Empire-of-the-Soul-Paul-William-Roberts

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280<br />

EMPIRE OF THE SOUL<br />

but less ostentatious – was adopted, and <strong>the</strong> city grew to look as<br />

much like a weirdly regurgitated London as Bengal’s climate would<br />

allow. Yet, just as <strong>the</strong>re is something dark and sinister about Venice,<br />

so Kipling’s City <strong>of</strong> Dreadful Night reeked <strong>of</strong> greed and ruthless<br />

commercialism. Its inhabitants were undeterred by plague and<br />

pestilence from pursuing <strong>the</strong>ir business interests for well over two<br />

centuries, filling <strong>the</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Company on London’s Leadenhall<br />

Street and <strong>the</strong>n, later, <strong>of</strong> His Majesty’s Government. And <strong>the</strong>se c<strong>of</strong>fers<br />

were nowhere near as full as <strong>the</strong>y might have been, ei<strong>the</strong>r, much<br />

loot remaining in sea chests belonging to <strong>the</strong> white nabobs who<br />

represented <strong>the</strong> Company in Council House, on Calcutta’s Clive<br />

Street, or presided over gigantic feudal fiefdoms spread across remote<br />

areas <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country. Even Clive himself, Bengal’s first governor, called<br />

Calcutta ‘<strong>the</strong> most corrupt place in <strong>the</strong> universe.’ He knew what he<br />

was talking about, being chief among those who helped create and<br />

enhance <strong>the</strong> city’s dubious reputation early on.<br />

That enigmatic figure, Edward Lear, <strong>the</strong> poet, painter, and<br />

idiosyncratic mystic, arrived in Calcutta on December 21, 1873, to<br />

spend three weeks <strong>the</strong>re before leaving on January 8 <strong>the</strong> following<br />

year for Darjeeling and <strong>the</strong> holy mountains that obsessed him. He<br />

spent <strong>the</strong> day <strong>of</strong> January 5 in <strong>the</strong> lavish gardens <strong>of</strong> what would soon<br />

become <strong>the</strong> renowned Tollygunge Club, painting a view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

place. Lear found <strong>the</strong> city a little hectic for his sensibilities, dubbing<br />

it ‘Hustlefussabad.’ And his view <strong>of</strong> his hosts and those he met –<br />

whose gluttony appalled him – is enshrined in one <strong>of</strong> those<br />

limericks for which he is best remembered, if least understood:<br />

There was an old man <strong>of</strong> Calcutta<br />

Who perpetually ate bread and butter,<br />

Till a large bit <strong>of</strong> muffin<br />

On which he was stuffin’<br />

Choaked this horrid old man <strong>of</strong> Calcutta.<br />

Like North American bootleggers and assorted mafiosi, <strong>the</strong> Raj that<br />

John Company had metamorphosed into sought to distance itself<br />

from its origins under <strong>the</strong> guise <strong>of</strong> imperial legitimacy. When <strong>the</strong><br />

Suez Canal opened in <strong>the</strong> 1860s, <strong>the</strong> P&O Lines shipping company

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