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35053668-Empire-of-the-Soul-Paul-William-Roberts

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‘I LIKE TOO MUCH THE PHFIT-PHFIT’<br />

and <strong>the</strong>y were annoyed by <strong>the</strong> fact that none <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m had any base<br />

any longer from which to observe and control it.<br />

The Punjab seemed to represent neo-imperialism’s only<br />

opportunity to correct this omission, and so it was seized. Then it<br />

was instantly dropped like a hot roti when <strong>the</strong> Soviet Union vanished<br />

– Sikh dreams <strong>of</strong> Khalistan, an independent homeland, teased, <strong>the</strong>n<br />

abandoned.<br />

All is now relatively quiet on <strong>the</strong> northwestern front. There are no<br />

more <strong>of</strong> those direct flights to and from Birmingham.<br />

For some reason, I’d never thought that <strong>the</strong> Golden Temple would<br />

really be made <strong>of</strong> gold, but it is. Which is probably why it’s<br />

surrounded by water and <strong>the</strong> fiercest armed guards I could ever<br />

imagine seeing.<br />

Eight years after I was in Amritsar, on June 5, 1984, Indira Gandhi<br />

ordered Indian troops to oust Sikh militants from <strong>the</strong> Golden Temple,<br />

which <strong>the</strong>y had turned into a fortified headquarters. It was <strong>the</strong><br />

anniversary <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> martyrdom <strong>of</strong> Guru Arjun Dev, <strong>the</strong> temple’s<br />

founder, and thousands <strong>of</strong> pilgrims were inside <strong>the</strong> sacred precincts<br />

paying homage. After five days <strong>of</strong> continuous fighting, those<br />

militants still alive finally surrendered. Some five thousand people<br />

died, most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m innocents caught in <strong>the</strong> crossfire; <strong>the</strong> great<br />

temple’s archives were reduced to ashes, and many <strong>of</strong> its ancient<br />

holy structures were irreparably damaged, including <strong>the</strong> fourhundred-year-old<br />

Akhal Takhat. This domed temple had recently<br />

been used by <strong>the</strong> revolutionary Sikhs’ leader as a fortress<br />

headquarters, though it was ostensibly seat <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> supreme religious<br />

council.<br />

Those who had encouraged <strong>the</strong> militants and <strong>the</strong>ir increasingly<br />

bloody quest for Khalistan, <strong>the</strong> ‘Land <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Pure,’ did not care about<br />

<strong>the</strong> awful consequences <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir self-interested actions, did not care<br />

about <strong>the</strong> Punjab or <strong>the</strong> Sikhs at all, now that <strong>the</strong>ir buffer zone was<br />

no longer crucial. Besides, this was not <strong>the</strong> first massacre <strong>the</strong> British<br />

had been responsible for in Amritsar.<br />

The Punjab was isolated, cut <strong>of</strong>f from <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> India; a thick<br />

veil seemed to cover it and hide it from outside eyes. There<br />

191

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