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35053668-Empire-of-the-Soul-Paul-William-Roberts

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282<br />

EMPIRE OF THE SOUL<br />

fa<strong>the</strong>r had been <strong>the</strong> only Indian granted an hereditary peerage by<br />

<strong>the</strong> British government, for services rendered, and <strong>the</strong> privilege<br />

remained a useful asset to <strong>the</strong> family, even after Independence.<br />

Calcutta was one place that could say in all honesty that ‘things<br />

were so much better when <strong>the</strong> British were here.’ Indeed, <strong>the</strong> upper<br />

classes <strong>of</strong> Bengali society happily filled <strong>the</strong> vacuum left by <strong>the</strong> Raj<br />

in countless ways, continuing many <strong>of</strong> its institutions exactly as<br />

<strong>the</strong>y had always been – apart from <strong>the</strong> signs that once read ‘No Indians<br />

or Dogs Allowed’ that is.<br />

Lord and Lady Sinha <strong>the</strong>n lived in a palatial house with high white<br />

walls and a manicured and well-watered lawn upon which peacocks<br />

roamed and around which rosebushes bloomed. Inside were all <strong>the</strong><br />

trappings <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Raj: eighteenth-century British furniture polished<br />

like glass; gleaming Georgian silverware; portraits <strong>of</strong> governors and<br />

nawabs in gilt frames; silk Persian rugs; heavy brocade drapes with<br />

gold-tasselled sashes; swollen down-filled s<strong>of</strong>as; mahogany humidors<br />

full <strong>of</strong> Cuban cigars; and engraved silver boxes stacked with Dunhill<br />

cigarettes. And two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most beautiful daughters I’d ever clapped<br />

eyes on.<br />

At <strong>the</strong> time, <strong>the</strong> city outside looked as if it had been alternately<br />

flooded and thoroughly burned several dozen times. The streets<br />

teemed with hand-drawn rickshaws and closed carriages like<br />

stagecoaches pulled by <strong>the</strong> skeletons <strong>of</strong> horses. These were <strong>the</strong> only<br />

vehicles able to navigate <strong>the</strong> flooded streets in monsoon season.<br />

Wherever you looked, emaciated figures in rags held snot-nosed<br />

babies masked in flies, with arms thin as garden hoses and bellies<br />

swollen from starvation. On every available surface someone had<br />

painted <strong>the</strong> hammer and sickle, or plastered a poster announcing<br />

revolution, death to <strong>the</strong> rich. I sympathised. But back in Lord Sinha’s<br />

cool and spacious oasis, <strong>the</strong> time had frozen at 1928. A dozen servants<br />

did everything but wash and spoon-feed us. Death to <strong>the</strong> poor was<br />

what <strong>the</strong>y feared.<br />

Early one evening, two decades ago, we sped through <strong>the</strong><br />

outrageous summer heat behind smoked glass in <strong>the</strong> air-conditioned<br />

cool <strong>of</strong> Lord Sinha’s chauffeured Mercedes, heading for a drink at<br />

<strong>the</strong> Royal Calcutta Golf Club. It is <strong>the</strong> second oldest golf club on<br />

earth. Bearers in immaculate starched white jackets greeted <strong>the</strong>

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