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35053668-Empire-of-the-Soul-Paul-William-Roberts

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194<br />

EMPIRE OF THE SOUL<br />

for this Green Revolution went largely to <strong>the</strong> hardworking Sikhs<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fertile Punjabi plains.<br />

In 1976, after <strong>the</strong> tumult <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> past, and blissfully unaware <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> bloodshed to come, Amritsar rested as calm and placid as that<br />

mirror <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> azure sky, <strong>the</strong> waters <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Pool <strong>of</strong> Tranquillity itself.<br />

The Pool is a manmade lagoon where pilgrims ba<strong>the</strong>, and after<br />

which Sikhism’s holiest city takes its name. In <strong>the</strong> centre <strong>of</strong> this lagoon,<br />

accessible only by a narrow causeway <strong>of</strong> white marble over two<br />

hundred feet long, flanked by two lines <strong>of</strong> nine elegant gilded lamps,<br />

stands <strong>the</strong> Golden Temple, Mecca for India’s more than thirteen<br />

million Sikhs, <strong>the</strong> physical centre <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir world. It is a structure <strong>of</strong><br />

unearthly beauty, a shimmering vision entirely covered in copper<br />

gilt and gold leaf, with inner walls <strong>of</strong> near-translucent marble inlaid<br />

with semiprecious stones in designs as intricate and as surpassingly<br />

magnificent as those found in <strong>the</strong> Taj Mahal or any o<strong>the</strong>r supreme<br />

achievements <strong>of</strong> Moghul architecture. The plasterwork and mirrors<br />

on <strong>the</strong> ceilings shower <strong>the</strong> interior with flashing stars reflected from<br />

candles and oil lamps, or from <strong>the</strong> sun itself reflecting <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong><br />

surrounding waters. Its founder, Guru Arjun Dev, described his<br />

temple as a ship built to carry <strong>the</strong> faithful safely across <strong>the</strong> oceans <strong>of</strong><br />

ignorance <strong>of</strong> this world.<br />

Ray, who had been in Amritsar possibly several dozen times, had<br />

never seen <strong>the</strong> temple before, and, what’s more, had no desire to<br />

ever see it. ‘Sikhs give me <strong>the</strong> creeps,’ he explained. ‘You should see<br />

<strong>the</strong> size <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fuckin’ knives those guys carry. Go in <strong>the</strong>re, pal,<br />

you’ll be fuckin’ salami in ten seconds.’<br />

He said he wanted to visit a friend. I wondered who this would<br />

be. As always, I had to be content with finding out when it was too<br />

late to get out.<br />

Overhead, in <strong>the</strong> high blue air, kitehawks deployed downwind.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> crumbling stone ro<strong>of</strong>s <strong>of</strong> houses lining a labyrinth <strong>of</strong> narrow,<br />

muddy lanes, vultures scanned <strong>the</strong> world below for courses for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

endless dinner party. Filthy and depraved-looking, hunched in<br />

fea<strong>the</strong>rs that resembled shredded academic gowns, <strong>the</strong>y reminded<br />

me <strong>of</strong> a sadist who’d once been my housemaster at school.<br />

The air was pungent with spices. Hunks <strong>of</strong> simmering warriorfood<br />

in vast copper pots that squatted over charcoal braziers.

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