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35053668-Empire-of-the-Soul-Paul-William-Roberts

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‘I LIKE TOO MUCH THE PHFIT-PHFIT’<br />

expanding empires. Nei<strong>the</strong>r had any interest in promoting peace<br />

and progress on <strong>the</strong> frontier. To <strong>the</strong> newcomers, security stood as<br />

<strong>the</strong> sole objective for <strong>the</strong> rulers <strong>of</strong> India. Like <strong>the</strong> Punjab recently,<br />

Afghanistan was <strong>the</strong>n viewed as a buffer state, and <strong>the</strong> passes were<br />

suddenly occupied, fortified; and new roads were constructed for<br />

<strong>the</strong> garrisons marching to and from <strong>the</strong>se new forts.<br />

This was more than Pathan dignity could tolerate. At one time or<br />

ano<strong>the</strong>r during <strong>the</strong> 1890s, every tribe on <strong>the</strong> frontier was up in<br />

arms, spurning ancient traditions <strong>of</strong> hospitality and sanctuary,<br />

ambushing and killing British civilians and soldiers alike. The<br />

British, <strong>of</strong> course, cracked down with equal force, burning villages<br />

and crops, destroying wells and orchards, starving women and<br />

children with blockades, and transporting tribesmen to <strong>the</strong> remote<br />

Andaman Islands, in <strong>the</strong> Bay <strong>of</strong> Bengal. What followed is well<br />

documented. After 1901, Lord Curzon, newly appointed as viceroy,<br />

declared a new province <strong>of</strong> India, <strong>the</strong> North-West Frontier, and until<br />

1947 <strong>the</strong> region erupted in an endless series <strong>of</strong> uprisings and reprisals.<br />

The British managed to hold on to <strong>the</strong> passes and <strong>the</strong> roads, but<br />

were unable to establish any real control over <strong>the</strong> hills surrounding<br />

<strong>the</strong>m. No one ever has.<br />

The last great battle <strong>the</strong> Pathans fought was in progress when I<br />

last visited Peshawar in 1980. By <strong>the</strong>n it had become a refugee camp<br />

and guerrilla base for those tribesmen fighting <strong>the</strong> occupying Soviet<br />

forces in Afghanistan. As countless armies before <strong>the</strong>m had learned,<br />

so, too, did <strong>the</strong> Soviets discover <strong>the</strong> hard way that it was impossible<br />

to fight people who were virtually invisible, who retreated after<br />

swift, unexpected and violent attacks up into a barren and treacherous<br />

landscape that only <strong>the</strong>y knew.<br />

Peshawar has always reigned as <strong>the</strong> unchallenged queen <strong>of</strong> Pathan<br />

cities. Lowell Thomas, <strong>the</strong> great American journalist, referred to it<br />

as <strong>the</strong>ir ‘Paris’ in 1930. Within it dwells an extraordinary melange<br />

<strong>of</strong> races, some three hundred thousand people representing most <strong>of</strong><br />

Asia, and o<strong>the</strong>r continents as well. It has changed less over <strong>the</strong><br />

centuries than most o<strong>the</strong>r cities. The Gor Khatri, a hill at <strong>the</strong> centre<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> old city, stood when Fa Hien and Hiuen Tsang, <strong>the</strong> Chinese<br />

pilgrims, respectively passed through in <strong>the</strong> fifth and seventh<br />

centuries. Timur and Babur would recognise much <strong>of</strong> it today;<br />

203

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