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35053668-Empire-of-the-Soul-Paul-William-Roberts

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EMPIRE OF THE SOUL<br />

thinking, No, I don’t believe. Don’t make me believe, ei<strong>the</strong>r. But if you<br />

come and stand <strong>the</strong>re and smile – I’ll believe. The reality confused me<br />

after years <strong>of</strong> living with <strong>the</strong> idea and <strong>the</strong> image. He drew closer. As<br />

I realised I knew what he was going to do, someone reached out to<br />

touch his feet. He skipped away with a reprimand. Then he stood,<br />

not twenty feet away, and looked straight into my eyes. Not a muscle<br />

on his face moved. Abruptly he turned and walked back down <strong>the</strong><br />

aisle, heading across <strong>the</strong> compound.<br />

That’s that, I thought. There’s <strong>the</strong> answer. You feel nothing at all, and he<br />

doesn’t even know who you are . . .<br />

This seemed a perfect conclusion to <strong>the</strong> whole thing. I decided I<br />

could probably get back to <strong>the</strong> West End in time for lunch, too, at<br />

this rate. Instead, I decided to walk where I’d once found unsurpassed<br />

serenity in <strong>the</strong> natural world.<br />

First I <strong>of</strong>fered a flower to Ganesh – good old Ganesh. Then I left<br />

<strong>the</strong> ashram, heading down <strong>the</strong> track that led to <strong>the</strong> Chitravati River.<br />

Or at least used to lead <strong>the</strong>re. A hundred yards <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> main drag,<br />

houses and minihotels for devotees ended and country began.<br />

‘Sai Ram, appa,’ a crafty-looking, well-coiffed sadhu announced,<br />

holding out his kamandalam bowl.<br />

‘Fuck <strong>of</strong>f,’ I told him with satisfaction. I’d never have said that<br />

back in 1974.<br />

Turning <strong>the</strong> bend where I should have seen <strong>the</strong> river’s edge, I<br />

found only a two-hundred-yard expanse <strong>of</strong> sand. The monsoon<br />

had failed here, too. All that was left was a twisting sand runway,<br />

with herds <strong>of</strong> goats being driven down it, and deep holes being dug<br />

to reach <strong>the</strong> shadow Chitravati underground. Baba had always<br />

warned people not to dig so many wells. It lowers <strong>the</strong> water table, he<br />

had explained. At <strong>the</strong> time, I had wondered what that had to do with<br />

us devotees, concluding it might be some sort <strong>of</strong> parable. Maybe it<br />

hadn’t been.<br />

I followed <strong>the</strong> dry bed. This aridity depressed me in a landscape<br />

that had once been so lush. After half a mile, I turned back, heading<br />

to <strong>the</strong> old part <strong>of</strong> Puttaparthi village – where Baba had been born. It<br />

looked exactly <strong>the</strong> same, charming and chaotic, full <strong>of</strong> fat water<br />

buffalo and happy children. Baba’s house had been torn down, I<br />

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