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35053668-Empire-of-the-Soul-Paul-William-Roberts

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‘I LIKE TOO MUCH THE PHFIT-PHFIT’<br />

and okayed it. This explained why everything looked well built,<br />

well maintained, and reassuringly solid after <strong>the</strong> crumbling<br />

architectural bedlam <strong>of</strong> Pakistan.<br />

Swat’s beauty deepened as we drove into its heart, past albescent<br />

snow-capped peaks, plunging rivers flashing and foaming over<br />

rocks, broad, verdant valleys, dense, lush forests, and tall legions <strong>of</strong><br />

evergreen firs patrolling <strong>the</strong> lower slopes. The temperature was<br />

cooling, already a pleasant 79 degrees Fahrenheit, which, after<br />

Peshawar’s low hundreds, seemed cooler still, especially in this clear,<br />

clean mountain air. All year round, apparently, <strong>the</strong> moderate climate<br />

ranges between 45 and 85 degrees, dipping slightly lower at night<br />

from November to February, <strong>the</strong> winter months.<br />

‘So,’ asked Ray as we passed ano<strong>the</strong>r landscape <strong>of</strong> beguiling<br />

elegance and opulent beauty, ‘how d’you like my little kingdom?’<br />

‘Nice.’<br />

‘Hadji and me are thinking <strong>of</strong> deposing <strong>the</strong> wali,’ he <strong>the</strong>n<br />

announced. ‘Yeah. Make Hadji <strong>the</strong> wali and me his minister <strong>of</strong><br />

pleasure.’<br />

Hadji roared with laughter. ‘Yes! Good, Ray Sahib! Wali Hadji, I<br />

like this too much. But we must fight war, take Shameem Valley –<br />

women <strong>the</strong>re too good,’ he explained for my benefit. ‘Too much<br />

beautiful, <strong>the</strong> Shameem womans.’<br />

Just north <strong>of</strong> Swat, beyond <strong>the</strong> Lawari Pass, which connects <strong>the</strong><br />

states <strong>of</strong> Dir and Chitral, is Kafiristan. The only people in this area<br />

to resist Islam, <strong>the</strong> Kafirs are light-skinned, fair-haired people who<br />

still practise an ancient form <strong>of</strong> ‘paganism’ abandoned elsewhere.<br />

Only a few thousand <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m survive now, but <strong>the</strong> extraordinary<br />

beauty and passion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir women is legendary to <strong>the</strong> Pathans, who<br />

locate <strong>the</strong> fabled ‘Valley <strong>of</strong> Shameem’ somewhere just east <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Afghanistan border, north <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> town <strong>of</strong> Drosh. To Hadji and his<br />

men <strong>the</strong> place existed as a pleasure dome, a place to imagine forever<br />

ra<strong>the</strong>r than ever actually see.<br />

This plan to depose <strong>the</strong> wali, however, seemed to be something<br />

more than a joke. I hoped <strong>the</strong> two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m weren’t planning to<br />

attempt a coup while I was <strong>the</strong>re. It seemed <strong>the</strong> classic gangster’s<br />

dream: a land <strong>of</strong> your own, where you made <strong>the</strong> laws, where no one<br />

could interfere with your whims.<br />

215

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