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quickly away, but occasionally I will be able to trap one inside my little black<br />
box to keep.<br />
Surfing is not my only mistress, but she doesn’t get jealous; perhaps because<br />
she knows that if I ever stray, I will always come back. I am enjoying introducing<br />
my two children to the surfing life. It is the greatest joy I could think of giving<br />
them. Now they are giving back to me by getting me out there on days when I<br />
would normally just head home and drink a beer. The entire surfing experience<br />
is circular.<br />
Surfing is so simple and perfect and at its core has nothing to do with wealth<br />
or status or appearances or ego. Of course this is idealistic but I believe it to be<br />
true. Anything in the twenty-first century involving mankind will contain all<br />
of the above, but somehow there are still those days when you can experience<br />
a quiet session with the sea where nothing else exists.<br />
If I had to describe my work I would say that I just look at the world and then<br />
wait for something to happen that makes some kind of sense.<br />
PROGRAM / PROGRAM<br />
52<br />
Foto Jon Frank
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