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Abstract My thesis investigates complex issues implied by and connected with the Japanese movement known generally as Gothic & Lolita (G&L), focussing specifically on the Lolita fashion-based subculture and psychological motivations behind it. It discusses the transmigration of the movement’s ideas from Eastern to Western to Eastern societies, including differing cultural interpretations of “Lolita” and their implications in terms of the Lolita phenomenon, while examining ideologies in context with conflicting connotations and paradoxes that arise from a label that combines perceptions about “Lolita” with the “Gothic”. It also addresses the “Lolita Complex”, a term that stems from the narrative of Vladimir Nabokov’s Lolita and is applied to a syndrome affecting older men and their attraction to young girls, and explores its associations with the Lolita subculture. The Lolita Complex, as the title of this thesis, also refers to the problematic complexities connected with and inferred by the movement. This thesis is multi-disciplinary. Although the emphasis is related to Fashion (or Design) History and Theory, my research also spans the fields of Subcultural Theory, Gothic Studies, Gender Studies, Asian Studies and Anthropology. It leans, though, more to the “theoretical” side, while my Page | 17
methodological approach relates closely to Analytic or Psychoanalytic Art History, based on my education and training as an Art and Design theorist. As such, this study is an analysis of the Japanese Lolita subculture. It is my theory or my reading of this cultural phenomenon, supported by evidence to state the overriding argument that the Lolita movement is symbolic of and represents a generation of young women who refuse to enter adulthood and “grow up”. Page | 18
Page 1 and 2: SCHOOL OF ART AND DESIGN A thesis s
Page 3 and 4: Contents Attestation of Authorship
Page 5 and 6: 3.12 The Means to Shock 235 Conclus
Page 7 and 8: Figure 9: Paul Michael Moon Rogers,
Page 9 and 10: Figure 26: Claude Monet, Waterlilie
Page 11 and 12: Figure 43: Yu~Ki, bassist for Malic
Page 13 and 14: Figure 65: Suigintou, Rozen Maiden
Page 15 and 16: Figure 83: Lolicon, http://blogs.ne
Page 17: on the Lolita subculture that we wo
Page 21 and 22: What is the Lolita Subculture? The
Page 23 and 24: Image removed according to copyrigh
Page 25 and 26: Taking into consideration the styli
Page 27 and 28: established trajectories, and rewri
Page 29 and 30: . How the subculture is perceived b
Page 31 and 32: The Literature As the Lolita subcul
Page 33 and 34: My methods for compensating for a l
Page 35 and 36: and Louise Edwards, “Contesting G
Page 37 and 38: make it my next major research proj
Page 39 and 40: That is, I deal with the Abstract a
Page 41 and 42: Adams’ particular definition of t
Page 43 and 44: Online Communities My involvement i
Page 45 and 46: Doll Collecting I have been a doll
Page 47 and 48: After moving back to Sydney tempora
Page 49 and 50: The Lolita Complex A Japanese Fashi
Page 51 and 52: So-called Lolita * The Lolita Subcu
Page 53 and 54: Though reasons for adopting the Lol
Page 55 and 56: The Lolita Fashion Identity Since t
Page 57 and 58: Image removed according to copyrigh
Page 59 and 60: A true Gothic Lolita thus adheres t
Page 61 and 62: The Gothic Lolita will usually wear
Page 63 and 64: The Sweet Lolita In a sense the tru
Page 65 and 66: If the Sweet Lolita’s dress is no
Page 67 and 68: Figure 14: Kathryn Hardy Bernal (we
Page 69 and 70:
Image removed according to copyrigh
Page 71 and 72:
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Given that Mana branded his collect
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Japan and the Western World Critics
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Early Encounters in Art & Design Be
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The shift in these dynamics occurre
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Court superseded Pugin’s stall as
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One of the finest examples of Anglo
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In 1888, the renowned department-st
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According to Richard Cork and the m
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entire wardrobe of Kansai designs.
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Merry Christmas, Mr Lawrence is kno
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It was, though, with the Yellow Mag
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These designers, especially Kawakub
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In observing these images it is app
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As discussed, Visual kei is the mus
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However, the authentic Gothic Lolit
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During the Taishō era (1912 - 1926
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with English subtitles in 2006. Whi
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Lolita and Popular Culture Besides
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illustration, is closely related to
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wider, “European” eyes, as well
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Chapter Two The Japanese Lolita: A
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commonly held sensibility not only
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Hina-Matsuri The Significance of Ni
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Bunraku Another tradition, bunraku
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Kitano’s Dolls Three tragedies, b
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[They] became especially popular du
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have taken on certain attributes of
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dolls) that had been delivered to J
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Hearn was struck by the realism and
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The impulse to collect… makes sen
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Pearce reiterates this notion of lo
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A Means to Escape the Real World I
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These pressures, combined with the
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For the Gothloli, this special priv
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Kawaii does not, therefore, transla
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childish objects; and the idea that
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A potential explanation for the see
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Masanobu Sugatsuke, editor of Compo
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There are several areas of concern
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Chapter Three: Challenging The Loli
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young woman, my claim is that the G
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“Kasutei” chooses the Lolita st
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In my honest opinion she was nothin
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That the Gothloli is not willing to
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This, argues Hasegawa, has caused
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those Japanese still influenced by
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Being a Woman in Japan As also disc
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The Shifting Position of Woman in C
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Year Changes of Mothers’ Age at C
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The Position of Woman in Historical
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Lolita as a New Form of Feminist Re
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In reference to the Japanese moveme
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To the Victorians, the Child was a
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Says “Loli-Bee”: Some people th
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That men are largely not attracted
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Lolita as a Radical Subculture In a
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Yuniya Kawamura highlights Dick Heb
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Resisting the Power of Pornography
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While examples of lolicon and or he
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The lolicon is also yet another pro
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understand that photographs of them
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The Gothloli expects and can feel p
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Writes Henville (somewhat contradic
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There is also much to be said in th
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notion that the fetishised French-m
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calling Hime Your Royal Highness or
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the rong [sic] age”. * And simila
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Just as she takes on the identity o
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pornographic activity is not openly
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Little Girl: “Don’t try to play
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Is this the Beginning or the End? O
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In 2003, the Japanese Lolita subcul
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and youth (post-school-aged) commun
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The question Chuang and I raised wa
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Just as the Aoki Sydney Powerhouse
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dresses we bought in Japan. The fin
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But, is this the end or just the be
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Anonymous. “Japanese Youth Subcul
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Chuang, Bevan K. Y., and Kathryn A.
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Giamo, Benedict. “The Myth of the
Page 263 and 264:
Ivy, Marilyn. Discourses of the Van
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Lambourne, Lionel. The Aesthetic Mo
Page 267 and 268:
Muramoto, Hiro. “Japan’s Gothic
Page 269 and 270:
Pooke, Grant and Diana Newall. “P
Page 271 and 272:
Spooner, Catherine. Fashioning Goth
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Wilcox, Claire. Vivienne Westwood.
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22 Ibid. 23 Britannia Online Encycl
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78 Frederick Hadland Davis, op. cit
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118 Yuniya Kawamura, op. cit., p. 3
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176 Ibid., p. 55. 177 Ibid., p. 54.
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224 Jane Pinckard, op. cit. 225 Ibi
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