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he has “been racing headlong in full-blown Lolita mode for years, in spite of being a straight male”. 202 On men such as Mana, though, the look is neither effeminate nor androgynous. It is feminine (Fig. 82). The appearance is still that of the girl and it celebrates the girl. This is a relatively new concept in regard to subcultures and as such posits this movement as unique and radical. Image removed according to copyright law Figure 82: Mana Musican (Malice Mizer and Moi Dix Mois) and Fashion Designer (Moi-même-Moitié) Page | 211
Yuniya Kawamura highlights Dick Hebdige’s observation that “girls have [in the past] been relegated to a position of secondary interest within both sociological accounts of subculture and photographic studies of urban youth and [that] masculine bias [has existed]… in the subcultures themselves”. 203 What is different about the Japanese Lolita movement is that it is essentially a girls’ subculture. 204 This alone makes it revolutionary. In the 1970s, Angela McRobbie and Jenny Garber also discussed the anomaly in subcultures in regard to the invisibility of girls. According to Anoop Nayak and Mary Jane Kehily, they: speculate[d] that the relative absence of girls in subcultures may hinge around issues of gender and space, [with] girls being more centrally involved in the “private” domestic sphere of home and family life rather than the “public” world of the street where most subcultural activities occur. 205 This observation illuminates the fact that historically – even within the realm of subculture, which by term alone carries with it an emphasis on underground or alternative behaviour, and is usually thus associated with rebellion and disestablishmentarianism against mainstream ideologies – the twentieth-century, until the emergence of the Japanese Lolita in the 1980s, had achieved little in its progression from the nineteenth-century model of women’s place in society. The Victorian culture of “separate spheres”, which professed that the public space was to be reserved for men while Page | 212
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SCHOOL OF ART AND DESIGN A thesis s
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Contents Attestation of Authorship
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3.12 The Means to Shock 235 Conclus
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Figure 9: Paul Michael Moon Rogers,
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Figure 26: Claude Monet, Waterlilie
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Figure 43: Yu~Ki, bassist for Malic
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Figure 65: Suigintou, Rozen Maiden
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Figure 83: Lolicon, http://blogs.ne
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on the Lolita subculture that we wo
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methodological approach relates clo
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What is the Lolita Subculture? The
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Image removed according to copyrigh
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Taking into consideration the styli
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established trajectories, and rewri
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. How the subculture is perceived b
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The Literature As the Lolita subcul
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My methods for compensating for a l
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and Louise Edwards, “Contesting G
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make it my next major research proj
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That is, I deal with the Abstract a
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Adams’ particular definition of t
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Online Communities My involvement i
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Doll Collecting I have been a doll
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After moving back to Sydney tempora
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The Lolita Complex A Japanese Fashi
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So-called Lolita * The Lolita Subcu
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Though reasons for adopting the Lol
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The Lolita Fashion Identity Since t
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A true Gothic Lolita thus adheres t
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The Gothic Lolita will usually wear
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The Sweet Lolita In a sense the tru
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If the Sweet Lolita’s dress is no
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Figure 14: Kathryn Hardy Bernal (we
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Given that Mana branded his collect
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Japan and the Western World Critics
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Early Encounters in Art & Design Be
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The shift in these dynamics occurre
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Court superseded Pugin’s stall as
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One of the finest examples of Anglo
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In 1888, the renowned department-st
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According to Richard Cork and the m
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entire wardrobe of Kansai designs.
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Merry Christmas, Mr Lawrence is kno
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It was, though, with the Yellow Mag
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These designers, especially Kawakub
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In observing these images it is app
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As discussed, Visual kei is the mus
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However, the authentic Gothic Lolit
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During the Taishō era (1912 - 1926
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with English subtitles in 2006. Whi
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Lolita and Popular Culture Besides
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illustration, is closely related to
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wider, “European” eyes, as well
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Chapter Two The Japanese Lolita: A
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commonly held sensibility not only
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Hina-Matsuri The Significance of Ni
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Bunraku Another tradition, bunraku
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Kitano’s Dolls Three tragedies, b
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[They] became especially popular du
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have taken on certain attributes of
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dolls) that had been delivered to J
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Hearn was struck by the realism and
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The impulse to collect… makes sen
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Pearce reiterates this notion of lo
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A Means to Escape the Real World I
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These pressures, combined with the
Page 161 and 162: For the Gothloli, this special priv
Page 163 and 164: Kawaii does not, therefore, transla
Page 165 and 166: childish objects; and the idea that
Page 167 and 168: A potential explanation for the see
Page 169 and 170: Masanobu Sugatsuke, editor of Compo
Page 171 and 172: There are several areas of concern
Page 173 and 174: Chapter Three: Challenging The Loli
Page 175 and 176: young woman, my claim is that the G
Page 177 and 178: “Kasutei” chooses the Lolita st
Page 179 and 180: In my honest opinion she was nothin
Page 181 and 182: That the Gothloli is not willing to
Page 183 and 184: This, argues Hasegawa, has caused
Page 185 and 186: those Japanese still influenced by
Page 187 and 188: Being a Woman in Japan As also disc
Page 189 and 190: The Shifting Position of Woman in C
Page 191 and 192: Year Changes of Mothers’ Age at C
Page 193 and 194: The Position of Woman in Historical
Page 195 and 196: Lolita as a New Form of Feminist Re
Page 197 and 198: In reference to the Japanese moveme
Page 199 and 200: Image removed according to copyrigh
Page 203 and 204: To the Victorians, the Child was a
Page 207 and 208: Says “Loli-Bee”: Some people th
Page 209 and 210: That men are largely not attracted
Page 211: Lolita as a Radical Subculture In a
Page 215 and 216: Resisting the Power of Pornography
Page 217 and 218: While examples of lolicon and or he
Page 221 and 222: The lolicon is also yet another pro
Page 223 and 224: understand that photographs of them
Page 225 and 226: The Gothloli expects and can feel p
Page 227 and 228: Writes Henville (somewhat contradic
Page 229 and 230: There is also much to be said in th
Page 231 and 232: notion that the fetishised French-m
Page 233 and 234: calling Hime Your Royal Highness or
Page 235 and 236: the rong [sic] age”. * And simila
Page 237 and 238: Just as she takes on the identity o
Page 239 and 240: pornographic activity is not openly
Page 241 and 242: Little Girl: “Don’t try to play
Page 243 and 244: Is this the Beginning or the End? O
Page 245 and 246: In 2003, the Japanese Lolita subcul
Page 247 and 248: and youth (post-school-aged) commun
Page 249 and 250: The question Chuang and I raised wa
Page 251 and 252: Just as the Aoki Sydney Powerhouse
Page 253 and 254: dresses we bought in Japan. The fin
Page 255 and 256: But, is this the end or just the be
Page 257 and 258: Anonymous. “Japanese Youth Subcul
Page 259 and 260: Chuang, Bevan K. Y., and Kathryn A.
Page 261 and 262: Giamo, Benedict. “The Myth of the
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Ivy, Marilyn. Discourses of the Van
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Lambourne, Lionel. The Aesthetic Mo
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Muramoto, Hiro. “Japan’s Gothic
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Pooke, Grant and Diana Newall. “P
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Spooner, Catherine. Fashioning Goth
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Wilcox, Claire. Vivienne Westwood.
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22 Ibid. 23 Britannia Online Encycl
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78 Frederick Hadland Davis, op. cit
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118 Yuniya Kawamura, op. cit., p. 3
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176 Ibid., p. 55. 177 Ibid., p. 54.
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224 Jane Pinckard, op. cit. 225 Ibi
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