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KITCHENS AND DINING ROOMS AT POMPEII ... - Get a Free Blog

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Culina<br />

In an architectural sense, culina can be defined as the kitchen, a specific room or area of<br />

the house where cooking was meant to be carried out on a regular basis. A Roman kitchen could<br />

have contained any of the stoves, hearths, ovens and baking covers listed above. Kitchens<br />

usually appear as a separate room only in houses large enough to be subdivided into<br />

functionally-defined spaces (see chapter one above, pp. 38-39). 62 In smaller homes, general-<br />

purpose living areas included cooking amongst their other activities. Literary evidence for the<br />

location of cooking areas is scarce and often fragmentary. The sources describe traditions of all<br />

periods, and it is clear that no single location in the house was customary or even proper for a<br />

hearth or a kitchen. The locations in the Roman house where written sources do mention cooking<br />

(whether at a focus or in a culina) fall into four basic categories: 1) the entrance or threshold to the<br />

house from the street (the vestibulum or limen), 2) the court of the atrium, 3) the back part of the<br />

house (posticum) next to the latrine, storage and stable areas, 4) inside a dining room.<br />

In vestibulo Ovid states that the hearth (the location where meals were eaten) was once<br />

in the front part (in primis aedibus) of the house:<br />

Formerly it [the hearth] stood in the first room of the house. Hence too, I am of<br />

the opinion that the vestibule took its name; it is from there that in praying we<br />

begin by addressing Vesta, who occupies the first place: it used to be the custom<br />

of old to sit on long benches in front of the hearth and to suppose that the gods<br />

were present at table. 63<br />

In the architecture of Roman atrium-houses, the vestibulum generally means the space directly in<br />

front of the actual threshold of the house, sometimes sheltered by a porch or provided with<br />

masonry benches for those waiting to be invited inside the house. 64 We cannot assume that<br />

62 For the Mediterranean in general, Scheffer 1981, 94 claims: "Before this time [5th-4th centuries B.C.], it<br />

cannot have been at all usual to adapt a specific room in the house as the kitchen". Salza Prina Ricotti<br />

1978/80, 247-248 posits a second century B.C. date for the appearance of the Roman kitchen. This date may<br />

be pushed back to perhaps the turn of the third century on the evidence of the word culina appearing in the<br />

Plautine plays Cas. 764, Mos. 1, Per. 631 and Truc. 615, in which the word has a clear sense of its own defined<br />

space within a house. It is possible, of course, that those mentions of kitchens were simply translations from<br />

the original Greek versions of the plays. Fixed kitchens were a feature of some houses in Classical and<br />

Hellenistic cities such as Olynthus, Halieis, Eretria and Morgantina, although fixed hearths are not<br />

necessarily present in those kitchens. Most Greek cooking appears to have been done with portable braziers<br />

and cooking stands (Sparkes 1962; Scheffer 1981, 92-96; Robinson & Graham 1938, 185-197; Ault 1993, 10-11;<br />

Ducrey 1991, 27; Tsakirgis 1984, 385-386).<br />

63 Ov. Fast. 6.302-306: ...qui tamen in primis aedibus ante fuit. Hinc quoque vestibulum dici reor, inde precando<br />

praefamur Vestam, quae loca prima tenet. Ante focos olim scamnis considere longis mos erat et mensae credere adesse<br />

deos (Tuebner text, Loeb translation).<br />

64 Masonry benches flanking the entrances of houses are present in the following examples from the<br />

archaeological sample: I.6.15, I.7.10-12, I.8.17+11, I.10.4, I.10.7, I.10.8, I.10.11, I.10.18. See Förtsch 1993, 127-<br />

134; Allison 1992b, 41; Adam1984, 318-321; McKay 1975, 271. Serv. A. 2.469 defines the vestibulum as the first<br />

part of the door (prima ianuae pars), and offers two etymologies: 1) the vestibule "clothes" (vestiat) the door<br />

with its two supporting columns (for the porch), or 2) the vestibule is sacred to Vesta (goddess of the hearth)<br />

and that is why married girls cannot touch the threshold upon entering the house.<br />

69

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