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seasonal workers in the spring. Similarly to the previous years, Kosta and Ariadne brought
extra soil from the area between Vuno and Himarë/Himara, where some patches of fertile soil
can be found.
Ariadne was proudly showing me some large, unripe tomatoes and onions which we planted
together in early April. “Do you remember how we were in hurry because Kosta had to go
urgently to the village?” she said and plucked a big onion out, showing it to me and adding
that our efforts were not in vane. In the same instance she bent again and began to pick up
weeds and small stones. “Stones, stones, nothing but stones is all we have here.” I noted that
vegetables grow fine in spite of the stony soil. “Of course they grow”, said Ariadne in an
upset manner, “but this would not happen if I and Kosta have not brought additional soil
every spring and put some Soulo’s 87 fertiliser in it.” She admitted that this year’s produce is
plentiful and that all tomatoes, onions, garlic, cucumbers, pumpkins and potatoes quite suffice
for seasonal needs in their summer fast-food restaurant. They have sandwiches, suvlaki, shishkebab,
seasonal salads and French fries on their menu.
Ariadne continued to remove weeds and stones with quick movements, throwing them over
the fence in the field overgrown by olive trees and evergreen vegetation, planted in times of
cooperative (1957-1990). She explained how it was hard and time-consuming for them with
Kosta to change the back of the place into a fertile garden. “Look at these hands!” she
exclaimed and showed her wrinkled palms, red from the clayey soil. Then she pointed at the
plaster on her right index finger and told me that due to the cold temperatures she got a small
ulceration, which would not heal because she constantly works on the garden and uses
washing powder in cold water. “Now look and tell me, are these the hands of a teacher?” she
asked again.
Without waiting for my answer, she started to tell a story about Kosta’s cousin Andrea, who
used to dispose bottles in the place of the present garden. Andrea used to have a bar and a
night club on Kosta’s land two years ago (in 2003). He had to tear it down, when Kosta and
Ariadne returned from Greece. When I asked her how he reacted to their request, she angrily
87 Soulo is a nickname of Soulejman, the local vegetable and fruits seller, who originates from Mallakastra, a
small town to the north of Vlorë. He brings his goods every Wednesday and Friday to local restaurants in
Llogara and villages of Himarë/Himara area. Besides fruits and vegetables he also sells smaller articles like
flour, sugar, candles, matches, vinegar, sunflower oil, candies, cookies, pasta, toilet paper and napkins.
Occasionally he brings dishes and glasses, and in spring the fertiliser, which is packed in white bags weighting
50 kilos each.
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