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elderly who stayed behind. Those who came to the village in the period <strong>of</strong> communism used<br />

to work in the agricultural cooperatives. Nowadays some <strong>of</strong> them are shop or cafe owners,<br />

while others work as seasonal workers. The rest <strong>of</strong> “newcomers”, who settled here after the<br />

collapse <strong>of</strong> communism, either work as construction workers or perform other physical work<br />

(such as working in the gardens, picking olives, grapes <strong>and</strong> oranges, working in local<br />

restaurants <strong>and</strong> bars on the coast), that is everything that pensioners are not capable <strong>of</strong> doing<br />

anymore. Many <strong>of</strong> them, especially if they were not born too far, visit their birthplaces, where<br />

most <strong>of</strong> them are still registered as residents. These “newcomers” <strong>of</strong>ten declare themselves<br />

according to the place from where their patrilinear ancestors originate. Throughout my<br />

fieldwork I have never heard them referring to themselves as villagers or fshatarët.<br />

In a number <strong>of</strong> conversations with the “newcomers” I <strong>of</strong>ten asked them about the locals’<br />

attitude towards them. At the beginning <strong>of</strong> our talks they were usually rather reserved. Later<br />

on, however, most <strong>of</strong> them expressed negative feelings towards the rude attitude <strong>of</strong> the<br />

fshatarët (villagers), referring to them as njerëz të këqinj (bad people) <strong>and</strong> racistë (racists).<br />

One <strong>of</strong> my companions was Enkeleida, who moved 25 to Dhërmi/Drimades from Mallakastra<br />

(a place north-east <strong>of</strong> the Himarë/Himara area) together with her family (husb<strong>and</strong>, daughter<br />

<strong>and</strong> son) in 1984. At the beginning she said that when they moved to the village they did not<br />

have any problems. “The locals accepted us warmly” she noted. But through the hours <strong>of</strong> our<br />

conversation Enkeleida became more talkative <strong>and</strong> when describing her work in the<br />

agricultural cooperative she said:<br />

When I moved here I did not know any Greek. I <strong>of</strong>ten cried as I couldn’t underst<strong>and</strong><br />

the language <strong>of</strong> my co-workers. But after a while I learned their language <strong>and</strong> today I<br />

can speak Greek.<br />

Later on Enkeleida noted:<br />

Although I have lived here for twenty-five years, people still perceive me as being<br />

Turkish. Most <strong>of</strong> them are racist like the Serbs in Kosovo. Still, I could say that those<br />

who returned to their native village after a number <strong>of</strong> years in emigration are quite<br />

different from those locals who never migrated.<br />

25 Similarly to other citizens who migrated within the country, the migration <strong>of</strong> Enkeleida <strong>and</strong> her family was –<br />

following their application – approved by the Communist Party or the so-called Party <strong>of</strong> Labour <strong>of</strong> Albania<br />

(PLA). They were decreed to move to Dhërmi/Drimades, where they worked in one <strong>of</strong> the largest agricultural<br />

cooperatives in the coastal (Bregu) area. A few years after the collapse <strong>of</strong> communism, Enkeleida’s youngest son<br />

immigrated to Italy, where he is studying economy, while her oldest daughter moved to Vlorë <strong>and</strong> got married<br />

there. Five years ago Enkeleida <strong>and</strong> her husb<strong>and</strong> bought an old house in the village centre, which they are now<br />

slowly re<strong>nova</strong>ting with the money they earn during the summer in their fast-food kiosk on the beach. Throughout<br />

the year Enkeleida’s husb<strong>and</strong> earns money performing occasional jobs in the village <strong>and</strong> its surroundings.<br />

58

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