Tweaking Optimizing Windows.pdf - GEGeek

world. The simplest way to cool your chip is called passive air-cooling. Passive air-cooling is basically the use of the surrounding,
cooler air to cool the chip, using some sort of ball bearing fan. This is the cheapest, easiest, and most common way to cool your
processor - all it entails is attaching a fan/heatsink combo to the processor to cool the thing down.
Hard-core hobbyists, however, are never satisfied with simple 'air' cooling, oh no. Heck, I've even seen some guys go so far as
immerse their systems into super-cooled glycerin (a non-conductive liquid) to cool their processors There are two 'reasonable' types
of active chip cooling. One, a Peltier system, basically uses a heat-transfer plate (called a Peltier) to conduct heat away from the
processor, where it is then carried off by a standard fan/heatsink combo. The only extra stuff you need for this type of system is
some form of insulation for the exposed portion of the cold side of the Peltier, because otherwise you will get condensation, and
even frost (Peltiers are extremely efficient). Peltiers' distinct disadvantages are that they consume a vast amount of power and that
they actually pose a direct danger to your components if used improperly. You should consider upgrading to 400W or higher power
supply before installing one that runs off your internal power supply; some Peltiers even require separate 24-volt power supplies. If
they're not properly cooled, Peltiers can actually damage the processor they're connected to and melt their own power leads. Never
power up a Peltier without also firing up the attached heat sink/fan!
The other 'standard' form of active cooling is using some form of water cooling device. Water cooling systems are gaining popularity
over Peltiers. They pump water or another liquid through a channel that takes it through a waterblock that's affixed to the CPU (to
cool the chip), and then through a radiator outside of the case (to cool the water). Leufken Technologies
www.leufkentechnologies.com sells a number of ready-made water-cooling kits. Even more impressive are the water cooling-ready
systems available from Koolance www.koolance.com
In either case, judicious use of thermal compound is necessary to ensure proper thermal contact between the CPU and its cooler.
Anyhow, if you've got the cash, their systems are something you might want to look into.
In spite of their ability to keep overclocked processors frigid, both Peltier and water coolers have several disadvantages. For one,
they're considerably more expensive than heat sink/fan units. A bigger problem is condensation: Peltiers and water coolers are so
efficient that the difference in a case's ambient air temperature and the pocket of cool air generated by the cooler can result in
distilled water or even ice forming around the CPU. Should the moisture dribble onto a charged circuit board, or form between the
CPU and the socket or slot contacts, it could cause considerable damage. The de facto defenses for this is to waterproof slots and/or
sockets with a silicone sealing compound, or to monitor the cooler and attempt to keep its temperature close to the case's ambient
temperature, thus preventing condensation from forming in the first place.
To install a cooling device, first you need to remove the old fan/heatsink combo from your processor. This should be a fairly simple
operation. Don't be afraid to use a little force to break the seal that was created by the thermal compound. You will then need to
use a flat razor to remove the remainder of the thermal compound from the top of the processor. Once this is complete, apply
either some more thermal compound or thermal tape (FragTape) to the top of the processor and attach the new heatsink on top of
that. Simple enough, huh? Some setups may have other necessary steps to attach the cooling device (thermally insulating silicon
caulking compound, etc.) to prevent condensation - but that won't be a problem with a standard fan/heatsink combo.
Regardless of how many case fans you install, you should either install dust filters in each fan situated to pull air into the system, or
check your system's internals every week or two for dust buildup. Increased, unfiltered airflow pushes more dust through the case.
Dust can stunt the life of case and component fans by building up on their fins and drive shafts, and it can coat--and therefore
insulate--various chips and components in your system. If you encounter dust buildup, purchase a can of compressed air at a
computer or photography shop and, with the computer powered off, blow the components clean. If you filter your fans, you should
clean the filters occasionally. Clogged filters can impede the flow of air through their fans.
No matter how much air you push through your system, you'll need more direct cooling for your overclocked components. The
cooling industry is ready, with heat sink/fan coolers available for every shape, size and brand of CPU. Among the most popular are
manufacturers are Global WIN www.globalwinusa.com maker of the legendary FOP38 Athlon/Duron cooler, and Thermaltake
www.thermaltake.com
Lapping
If you can't afford a Peltier or a water-cooling system, you can increase the thermal transfer of your components by performing a
process known as lapping. Heat sinks work by transferring the heat away from a component to a more easily cooled area.
Unfortunately, both heat sinks and processors contain irregularities in their surfaces that prohibit contact in some areas. Lapping is
the act of removing any irregularities in the surface of a component and a heat sink, rendering them completely flat and therefore
able to come into greater contact with each other. As rewarding as it can be in allowing you to push clock frequency envelope even
farther, the process of lapping borders on the insane.
The best way to lap a CPU and its heat sink is to first acquire a pane of glass at least eight inches by eight inches, three or four
sheets of sandpaper of varying coarseness (perhaps 400, 600 and 800), and plenty of tape. Remove the CPU and separate it from
its heat sink. Lay the glass flat on a table and tape the coarsest sandpaper, grit side up, to the glass. As recently as the Pentium,
the surface of the CPU that was actually visible was the metal or ceramic package enclosing the actual silicon chip. However, current
generation CPUs now have a metal layer, called a heat slug, over the top of the CPU, which helps dissipate the heat generated by
today's very hot CPUs. However, the heat slug often has some minor irregularities that prevent a perfect mating between the
surface of the slug and the contact area of the active cooler.
Before lapping this Celeron A, you should cover its exposed metal parts with tape. You'll want to sand the heat slug that comes into
contact with the heat sink without damaging any other electronic components, such as discrete power regulation devices on the
surface of some CPU packages or other metallic parts nearby. For example, on a Celeron CPU, the side that touches the heat sink is
surrounded by the backs of the CPU's pins. You should tape over the pins' backs to prevent them from becoming damaged.
Wet the sandpaper slightly--a few well-spread drops of water will do. Place the area of the CPU you wish to lap on the sandpaper.
With firm but gentle pressure, stroke the CPU in a circular or figure eight motion on the sandpaper for a few seconds. Then remove
the CPU from the sandpaper and inspect it. You'll see scratches on the surface of the heat slug or package. Make sure that "only"
the heat slug was sanded, and repeat the process. You should continue this until any etching on the CPU has been nearly removed.
Switch to the next smoothest sandpaper, and remove the rest of the etching. Switch to the smoothest sandpaper and sand until any
noticeable scratches are gone and the surface is completely smooth.