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BLUE NEW 31_215x270 - Blue Liguria - Sagep

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gusto<br />

blue<br />

Una mela in tournèe<br />

Apples on Tour<br />

hinterlands (more hinterland than<br />

Valbrevenna, does not exist<br />

anywhere else in the mountains) –<br />

together with the Regional Park of<br />

the Antola. The brains behind the<br />

operation is Sergio Rossi, writer<br />

and expert of <strong>Liguria</strong>n produce and<br />

local culinary art. The goal, in<br />

addition to the recovering of<br />

ancient plants, (the first phase has,<br />

in fact, carried out a census of all<br />

the Cabellota apple trees still in<br />

existence) is that of creating<br />

opportunities for development and<br />

commerce for producers, and to<br />

give everyone the possibility of<br />

savoring this special fruit, red in<br />

color, intense in flavor, the typical<br />

example of biodiversity for the<br />

land of the Upper Scrivia Valley,<br />

the Alta Valle Scrivia.<br />

But the Cabellotta apple is not<br />

alone among <strong>Liguria</strong>n apples.<br />

Hidden in the valleys of the<br />

<strong>Liguria</strong>n hinterlands are other<br />

typical varieties of this fruit (mela<br />

in Italian): Mela Belfiore, Mela<br />

Beverino, Bianchetta, Musona,<br />

Si raccolgono tra settembre e<br />

ottobre - un po’ prima la Bianchetta<br />

- e si consumano nei<br />

mesi successivi. Dicembre in<br />

particolare è il momento della<br />

mela Rugginìn, diffusa in tutto<br />

l’entroterra, di forma mediopiccola,<br />

rugginosità elevata e<br />

non troppo dolce, e anche della<br />

Mela Belfiore, prodotta nelle<br />

zone di Varese Ligure e dell’Alta<br />

Val di Vara. Ha forma più<br />

grande, scarsa rugginosità e sapore<br />

piuttosto aromatico.<br />

Piante e frutti che sanno di <strong>Liguria</strong><br />

contadina, con storie da<br />

raccontare e mille modi per essere<br />

gustate.<br />

Per scaldarsi durante la stagione<br />

invernale, ad esempio, è tipico<br />

- da noi come altrove -<br />

cuocere le mele nel forno. Un<br />

tempo si infornavano dopo la<br />

cottura del pane quando il forno<br />

era ancora caldo. Bastano un<br />

cucchiaio di zucchero e mezz’ora<br />

di tempo per una vera<br />

semplice bontà.<br />

Pipìn, Rugginìn, Stolla, and Carla,<br />

perhaps one of the better known.<br />

They are harvested between<br />

September and October – a bit<br />

earlier for the Bianchetta – and<br />

eaten in the following months.<br />

December is in particular the best<br />

moment for Mela Rugginìn, which<br />

can be found through the <strong>Liguria</strong>n<br />

Apennines. It is medium to small,<br />

very wrinkled, and not too sweet.<br />

There is also the Mela Belfiore,<br />

grown around Varese Ligure and<br />

the Upper Val di Vara valley. A bit<br />

bigger in size, less wrinkled, and<br />

rather aromatic in flavor.<br />

These plants and fruits taste of<br />

<strong>Liguria</strong>. They reflect the heritage of<br />

those tied to the land, with stories<br />

to tell, and a thousand ways to be<br />

eaten. To warm up on a cold winter<br />

day, for example, it was typical to<br />

cook the apples in the oven. Once<br />

upon a time, they would stick them<br />

in after the bread was baked, while<br />

the oven was still hot. Just a spoon<br />

full of sugar, and half an hour, to<br />

sample true delight.<br />

Antica varietà di mela<br />

storicamente molto diffusa nel<br />

territorio valbrevennino e nelle<br />

valli limitrofe, il progetto di<br />

recupero e censimento delle<br />

piante di Cabellotta in questi<br />

ultimi mesi è stato presentato<br />

nelle principali manifestazioni<br />

del settore. A settembre alla Fiera<br />

dell’Agricoltura di Montagna di<br />

Torriglia, e a ottobre a Frutti<br />

Antichi - XVII edizione della<br />

rassegna di piante, fiori e frutti<br />

dimenticati al Castello di<br />

Paderna, a Pontenure (PC)<br />

Ancient varieties of apples that<br />

were historically grown in the<br />

Valbrevennino and the valleys<br />

around it. The project to recover<br />

and carry out a census of the<br />

Cabellotta apple trees has been<br />

presented over the last few<br />

months at the main trade fairs<br />

and sector-related events such as<br />

the Fiera dell’Agricoltura di<br />

Montagna in Torriglia and Frutti<br />

Antichi - XVII edizione della<br />

rassegna di piante, fiori e frutti<br />

dimenticati<br />

85

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