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Palazzo de'Rossi. Una storia pistoiese

a cura di Roberto Cadonici fotografie di Aurelio Amendola

a cura di Roberto Cadonici
fotografie di Aurelio Amendola

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8. <strong>Palazzo</strong> de’ Rossi, salone, decorazione ‘all’antica’ con testa di guerriero raffigurante Grandonio entro cornice ovale, affresco<br />

monocromo nel sovrapporta dell’accesso assiale al ballatoio. Luigi Ra fanelli, 1794.<br />

6. Pistoia, Canto dei Rossi, scultura in serpentino del<br />

tardo sec. XII, ritenuta il ritratto di Grando nio, antico eroe<br />

cittadino ascritto alla famiglia dei Rossi.<br />

7. Sistemazione tardo-settecentesca della “testa di Grandonio”, al Canto dei Rossi, affiancata da due stemmi in pietra<br />

trecenteschi della famiglia dei Rossi.<br />

La figura, vera e propria metafora visiva del riferirsi all’illustre personaggio del passato da parte<br />

dei supposti suoi discendenti, era il punto focale della “prospettiva” che si apriva dall’ingresso<br />

sulla strada, a portone aperto: quasi indicandone, significativamente, l’asse principale 16 (fig. 9).<br />

Ma il canonico Tommaso volle anche, nel mentre si occupava della costruzione e della decorazione,<br />

nel 1793-1794, del salone d’onore, enfatizzare la ‘presenza’ in quel luogo di quell’eroe<br />

cittadino che dava lustro al suo casato, nel contemporaneo rifacimento, con aspetto più dignitoso,<br />

delle due facciate della “casa vecchia” posta al “Canto de’ Rossi”.<br />

Egli fece disporre proprio sull’angolo, entro un piccolo incasso, un importante reperto scultoreo<br />

del tardo secolo XII, conservatosi fino ad allora sul fronte esterno di quel vetusto<br />

casamento 17 (fig. 6).<br />

9. Statua di Grandonio in terracotta dipinta, entro la nicchia<br />

dell’esedra esistente sul retro del palaz zo, un tempo adibito a<br />

giardino. Anonimo scultore locale, 1802.<br />

But a different urban location was preferred for the construction of the new residence. It was<br />

a site near the medieval Porta Sant’Andrea, where in the 13th century the Rossi possessed<br />

some tower-houses, on the narrow street that led into the oldest part of the city and all<br />

around the crossroads. The place had been the theater of important historical events and<br />

was also linked to fabled memories of a distant past connected with Roman antiquity and the<br />

origins of Pistoia (fig. 5). 9<br />

The foundations of the Rossi family’s houses that faced onto that street lay in ground filled<br />

with imposing remains of ancient keeps and fortifications, which were brought to light during<br />

the construction of the palazzo, along with several anticaglie or “curiosities.” 10 Those houses had<br />

seen the birth—it was believed—of Grandonio, the legendary and gigantic hero of the family<br />

who had lived at the beginning of the 12th century and was considered a shining example of<br />

the valor in war shown by the oldest members of the family and evidence of its importance for<br />

the whole city. 11 To the point of his portrait being placed on display in the <strong>Palazzo</strong> Comunale,<br />

or City Hall, as a special mark of honor (fig. 4). 12 At the time the powerful head carved out of<br />

serpentine, with an intense, enigmatic expression, that can still be seen today at the crossroads<br />

called the “Canto de’ Rossi” was commonly thought to be his portrait. 13<br />

In an age in which quarterings of nobility depended on the antiquity and prestige of ancestors,<br />

that location had for the members of the Rossi family, as its original residence and the place<br />

where Grandonio was believed to have been born, sufficient attractions to outweigh the<br />

undoubted disadvantages related to the “visibility” of the building to be constructed, as was<br />

pointed out at the beginning. That this was the leitmotiv that would characterize the new<br />

residence is demonstrated by the appearance of Grandonio’s image at some of the most<br />

significant points of the building and its annexes.<br />

It is present, in the form of a “heroic” head, among the ornaments painted by the Pistoian<br />

artist Luigi Rafanelli in the main hall, completed by the canon primicerius Tommaso dei<br />

Rossi between 1793 and 1794 (fig. 8). 14<br />

A more than life-size painted terracotta statue of Grandonio, in the guise of an ancient Roman<br />

warrior, still stands solemnly in the niche of an exedra faced with blocks of tuff that was the<br />

principal ornament of the new garden, laid out at the rear of the building in 1802. 15 The figure, a<br />

true visual metaphor of the reference to the illustrious personage of the past on the part of his<br />

supposed descendants, was the focal point of the “perspective” that unfolded from the entrance<br />

onto the street, with the door open: almost indicating, significantly, the main axis (fig. 9). 16<br />

But Canon Tommaso, while engaged in the construction and decoration of the main hall in<br />

1793-94, also wanted to emphasize the “presence” of the hero who brought prestige to his<br />

stock in that place, in the contemporary reconstruction, with a more dignified appearance,<br />

of the two façades of the “old house” located at the “Canto de’ Rossi.”<br />

He had an important piece of sculpture from the 12th century, up until then located on the<br />

outer front of that old building, placed on the corner, inside a small recess (fig. 6). 17<br />

It is the finest and most expressive of the so-called “black heads” that can still be seen in<br />

Pistoia: it was given a variety of identities by the local scholars of the 17th-18th century, but<br />

considered a portrait of Grandonio by the memorialists of the Rossi family. 18 At the time a<br />

14th-century stone coat of arms of the Rossi family, in the form of a shield, was placed on<br />

each side of that head sculpted in serpentine, on the converging walls; on the main façade,<br />

facing onto the street that is named after the Rossi, the emblem at the corner served to<br />

complete, along with its counterpart located symmetrically on the right, another “display” in<br />

which the shield of the House of Anjou was located at the center (fig. 7). 19<br />

This medieval panoply served to convey immediately to the passerby and the “foreigner”<br />

how ancient and illustrious was the family whose new residence stood alongside the old one<br />

at the “Canto de’ Rossi.”<br />

Raffaello Ulivi’s Design and the Beginning of the Construction<br />

The credit for having gathered all the family memories, records and documents that served<br />

to outline the history of the construction of the new building must go to Canon Tommaso dei<br />

34 35

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