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Sculpting in ZBrush<br />
Creating a ‘ripped’ body<br />
20 ZBrush setup<br />
For export into ZBrush, all p<strong>art</strong>s are centred on the Z axis,<br />
combined into one mesh layer and its UVs are in 0-1 space.<br />
The model is saved as an OBJ and imported into ZBrush.<br />
Before any sculpting, I organise the p<strong>art</strong>s into separate<br />
SubTools, give them Morph targets and ensure any open<br />
edges are creased. I also organise the SubTool list with<br />
names and objects sorted according to their position in<br />
space, top to bottom t.<br />
22 Sculpt muscles<br />
Using the Standard brush with Z Intensity set to 10 and<br />
Focal Shift to -100, do an overall first pass over the body. I<br />
only use the Smooth brush to even out the surface, keeping<br />
the stroke edges and bump that lend to an overall fleshy<br />
feel. Keeping the brush stroke defined helps to provide the<br />
‘muscle fibre’ look v.<br />
t<br />
21 Overall body patterns<br />
I like to map out the muscle patterns, bumps and fibres to build<br />
upon. Using the Slash3 brush set to an intensity of about -30, I<br />
st<strong>art</strong> by tracing out the edges and creases for muscles and<br />
tendons, etc. When the first pass is done, I like to use the<br />
Slash2 and Slash1 brushes to add finer details and bumps u.<br />
u<br />
Top tips<br />
To get much better results,<br />
faster, I use the Alpha<br />
palette and masks as I<br />
work. Alpha is great for<br />
hiding p<strong>art</strong>s I’m not<br />
working on and helps to<br />
speed up my workflow, as<br />
well as improve general<br />
application responsiveness<br />
as I add subdivision layers<br />
to the SubTool. I find that<br />
using masks helps me to<br />
quickly add folds and<br />
overlapping detail just as in<br />
real sculpting. Pushing and<br />
moving the shape together<br />
helps to get a good flow in<br />
the model’s form.<br />
w<br />
23 Head detail<br />
For face detailing I like to have some photo references handy<br />
to help with the smaller, more subtle features. I try to get the<br />
eye area correct, then move on to the mouth. Lastly I work in<br />
the ear detail to complete the head w.<br />
v<br />
t I prefer to sculpt using the<br />
MatCap Gray material for its<br />
wide specular range and the<br />
fact it’s not translucent, so<br />
details and flaws are visible<br />
u Using the Slash3 brush in<br />
reverse helps to add raised<br />
details to the flesh<br />
v Using the Move tool, I adjust<br />
the muscle shape and flow<br />
w After overall sculpting I find<br />
using Alpha masks a very<br />
quick method for adding in<br />
wrinkles and folds<br />
x Hands can be tricky to get<br />
right. Work from the main<br />
joints out to the fingertips<br />
x<br />
24 Hands<br />
Hands tend to be somewhat<br />
bony, so I st<strong>art</strong> with defining<br />
the major joints on the<br />
fingers and the tendons on<br />
the back of the hand.<br />
Generally it’s good practice<br />
to get the knuckles looking<br />
correct and then the area<br />
around the thumb base. The<br />
last step is usually defining<br />
the fingertips x.<br />
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