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3d art

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Sculpting in ZBrush<br />

Creating a ‘ripped’ body<br />

20 ZBrush setup<br />

For export into ZBrush, all p<strong>art</strong>s are centred on the Z axis,<br />

combined into one mesh layer and its UVs are in 0-1 space.<br />

The model is saved as an OBJ and imported into ZBrush.<br />

Before any sculpting, I organise the p<strong>art</strong>s into separate<br />

SubTools, give them Morph targets and ensure any open<br />

edges are creased. I also organise the SubTool list with<br />

names and objects sorted according to their position in<br />

space, top to bottom t.<br />

22 Sculpt muscles<br />

Using the Standard brush with Z Intensity set to 10 and<br />

Focal Shift to -100, do an overall first pass over the body. I<br />

only use the Smooth brush to even out the surface, keeping<br />

the stroke edges and bump that lend to an overall fleshy<br />

feel. Keeping the brush stroke defined helps to provide the<br />

‘muscle fibre’ look v.<br />

t<br />

21 Overall body patterns<br />

I like to map out the muscle patterns, bumps and fibres to build<br />

upon. Using the Slash3 brush set to an intensity of about -30, I<br />

st<strong>art</strong> by tracing out the edges and creases for muscles and<br />

tendons, etc. When the first pass is done, I like to use the<br />

Slash2 and Slash1 brushes to add finer details and bumps u.<br />

u<br />

Top tips<br />

To get much better results,<br />

faster, I use the Alpha<br />

palette and masks as I<br />

work. Alpha is great for<br />

hiding p<strong>art</strong>s I’m not<br />

working on and helps to<br />

speed up my workflow, as<br />

well as improve general<br />

application responsiveness<br />

as I add subdivision layers<br />

to the SubTool. I find that<br />

using masks helps me to<br />

quickly add folds and<br />

overlapping detail just as in<br />

real sculpting. Pushing and<br />

moving the shape together<br />

helps to get a good flow in<br />

the model’s form.<br />

w<br />

23 Head detail<br />

For face detailing I like to have some photo references handy<br />

to help with the smaller, more subtle features. I try to get the<br />

eye area correct, then move on to the mouth. Lastly I work in<br />

the ear detail to complete the head w.<br />

v<br />

t I prefer to sculpt using the<br />

MatCap Gray material for its<br />

wide specular range and the<br />

fact it’s not translucent, so<br />

details and flaws are visible<br />

u Using the Slash3 brush in<br />

reverse helps to add raised<br />

details to the flesh<br />

v Using the Move tool, I adjust<br />

the muscle shape and flow<br />

w After overall sculpting I find<br />

using Alpha masks a very<br />

quick method for adding in<br />

wrinkles and folds<br />

x Hands can be tricky to get<br />

right. Work from the main<br />

joints out to the fingertips<br />

x<br />

24 Hands<br />

Hands tend to be somewhat<br />

bony, so I st<strong>art</strong> with defining<br />

the major joints on the<br />

fingers and the tendons on<br />

the back of the hand.<br />

Generally it’s good practice<br />

to get the knuckles looking<br />

correct and then the area<br />

around the thumb base. The<br />

last step is usually defining<br />

the fingertips x.<br />

86

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