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The Bazars of Cairo 73<br />

mediasval mansions, to be described in the chapter on Arab<br />

houses, opens out of this bazar ; it is known as the Bcit-<br />

el-Khalil. There are a good many leather-workers at the<br />

beginning of the bazar, who make the gay saddle-bags and<br />

pouches and purses that the foreigners love to buy. The<br />

tentmakers are the most hopelessly vulgarised of all the<br />

denizens of the bazar ; elsewhere I have inveighed against<br />

them for prostituting their art by substituting coarse carica-<br />

tures of the ancient Kgyptian tomb paintings for the beautiful<br />

texts and arabesques which are on the awnings and tent<br />

linings they make for Arabs. They talk incessantly to every<br />

foreigner who passes :<br />

" Look here, sir, you want to buy very nice. Come in<br />

no sharge for examine "— and so on.<br />

The Tentmakers' Bazar carries you up to the Bab-es-<br />

Zuweyla—one of the old gates of Cairo. Most of the<br />

bazars lie just inside it.<br />

There are ten leading bazars at Cairo : the Tentmakers'<br />

Bazar, the Silk Bazar, the Cotton Bazar, the Tunisian and<br />

Algerian Bazar, the Scentmakers' Bazar, the Silversmiths<br />

and Goldsmiths' Bazar, the Sudanese l^azar, the Brass Bazar,<br />

the Shoemakers' Bazar ; and the Turkish Bazar or Khan-el-<br />

Khalil. But the Sukkariya, which means Sugar Bazar,<br />

though you do not see a single sugar shop in it, and the<br />

Sliaria cl-Akkadin, which succeeds it, constitute practically<br />

the bazar of cheap hosiery.<br />

For the kodaker, the Tunis Bazar and the Scentmakers'<br />

Bazar and the Silk Bazar are the best. They, at any rate, arc<br />

as Oriental as the bazars of Tunis. Here the shops are<br />

mere cupboards, and the owner squats on his counter and<br />

fills the entire front. There arc benches for customers<br />

running along the outside of the shops like a curbstone<br />

covered with carpets. The Tunis Bazar is roofed over<br />

like the bazars at Tunis, and is a blaze of colour, with<br />

its festoons of red and yellow shoes, gaily striped blankets,<br />

white shawls, embroidered saddle-bags and tasselled pra>'ing-<br />

carpets. The shops themselves are lined with shelves<br />

divided into squares. A fine note of colour is struck<br />

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