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76 Oriental Cairo<br />

Scent Bazar I was attracted to an Arab cabinet, a little<br />

mahogany box about a foot long, with six little drawers and<br />

decorated with ivory and bronze, altogether rather Japanese.<br />

I asked the price, knowing that five shillings would be a<br />

liberal offer for this battered old affair. " Two guineas," he<br />

said, true to his hereditary instincts. At that moment an old<br />

woman with a face which evidently had been lovely passed<br />

through the bazar singing to the accompaniment of a<br />

tambourine. " She has been a beautiful woman once," I said<br />

to the scentmakcr. " Yes, sir," he said, " but she is a wreck<br />

now."<br />

I gave a look at his box, and went on to the Silk Bazar,<br />

which is always picturesque, with yarn-spinners using the<br />

same primitive descending peg-top as the yarn- spinners of<br />

Sicily use to this day, an inheritance from the Saracenic<br />

lords who left the Isle not much short of a thousand years<br />

ago.<br />

Nothing pleased me more in the Silk Bazar than the<br />

weavers, who sat with their legs buried under the floor,<br />

working the treadles of the tiny looms which produced<br />

such beautiful results. Mere they make the women's veils ;<br />

here they have their silks put up in quires on book-shelves<br />

as they do in Japan. There is so little difference between<br />

the shops in an Arab bazar and a Japanese street. Both make<br />

counters of their floors, and you sit on the dikka outside your<br />

bazar-shop in Cairo as you sit on the edge of the floor of the<br />

Japanese shop. Both are raised about a foot from the<br />

ground.<br />

In the same bazar they sell the Arab soap that is made in<br />

spheres like tennis balls, and is said to have merits which<br />

certainly do not advertise themselves on the babies' skins.<br />

The Sudanese Bazar is on the other side of the Sukkariya.<br />

It is not worth going into for its wares, but it has some<br />

{)icturesquc houses, and it leads up to the great mosque of<br />

El-Azhar, the University of the Moslem world.<br />

The Sudanese, if they are Sudanese, though I have<br />

never seen any there, sell little but mangy leopard skins<br />

and the cheap painted bo.xes which you see in any Arab or

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