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Cairo at Night 113<br />

spectacle late that night, for the richly decorated tabernacles<br />

which surrounded the vast square were a blaze of light, and<br />

full of holy men reciting the Koran, and of dancing and<br />

singing of religious natures, I supposed, the costumes being<br />

very fine. I have never seen Ramadan in Egypt. In a<br />

rich city like Cairo the Arabian nights of Ramadan must<br />

be worth a book to themselves. About the most Arab and<br />

the least Arab spectacle I ever went to was the Opera in<br />

the Arab theatre. It was un-Arab, because it was all<br />

so perfectly done. It might have been a chef d'oeuvre of<br />

mimicking the Orient in a Paris theatre. It was so Arab<br />

because its plot depended on a breach of Eastern etiquette.<br />

The scene was laid in the Sheikh's house in Mecca, and the<br />

actors all wore the dress of pure Arabs of Arabia. The<br />

scenery was very simple, the costumes were very gorgeous.<br />

Where the cloven foot of Christian civilisation showed was<br />

in the sentimental sentiment of the love-songs and the importance<br />

accorded to the women. The end would have<br />

come so much sooner in real life.<br />

8

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