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284 Oriental Cairo to overhang the mirror of water and decayed vegetable matter. Health, I suppose, demanded its removal, but not the health of the Arabs, who positively enjoy the presence of stagnant water. This canal was only full for certain portions of the year. While the Nile was rising, its end opposite the Island of Roda was blocked with a stout earth-dam twenty-two feet high. When the river had risen to the official height of a full Nile this dam was cut with a gorgeous ceremony and universal rejoicing. Fortunately Mr. Lane-Poole, one of the most picturesque as well as one of the most erudite writers about the un- reformed and unrestored Cairo, has left us an inimitable account of the ceremony of cutting the canal. " West of the Tulun mosque the canal makes a sharp angle, and then, resuming its south-westerly direction, enters the Nile close to Masr El-'Atika, or, as Europeans call it, ' Old Cairo.' The entrance of the canal (Fum El-Khalig) is opposite the Island of Roda, where is the famous nilometer, or well for measuring the height of the inundation. Until the river has risen to the height of sixteen cubits in the nilometer, an old law enacts that no land-tax can be levied. The Government, however, of course used to take care to publish a falsified measurement before the due time, and thus induce the peasants to begin payment. Long before even this official date a public crier goes about, accompanied by a boy, announcing the portentous height of the river. ' God preserve the master of this house,' he cries, stopping before your door, ' and increase upon him His favours. O Bountiful, O God ! ' ! ' Ay, please God ' choruses the boy. God preserve to me my mistress, the chief lady among brides, such a one (naming your wife, perhaps) ' for a long period ! O Bountiful, ! O God ' ' Ay, please ! God ' from the boy. Then comes the information that the Nile is rising abundantly. ' Five digits to-day : and the Lord is bountiful ! ' To which the acolyte adds, ' Bless ye ! Mohammed ' to avert the possible effects of the evil eye. The people do not, however, pay much attention to the crier's daily announcements until the '
Roda Island and Moses 285 last day before the Government proclamation of ' Full Nile,' which is to be signalised by cutting the dam of the canal and letting the river run in. On that day the crier goes about with additional pomp, accompanied by a crowd of little boys carrying coloured flags, and announces that it is now the Wefa en-Nil (Fullness of the Nile). ' The river hath given abundance,' he cries, 'and fulfilled its measure.' At which the boys .shout, ' God hath given abundance.' ' The canals flow, and the vessels are afloat, and the hoarder of grain has failed— by permission of the Mighty, the Requiter,' etc., interrupted at each clause by the refrain of the boys, ' Ofallah ! ' ' God hath given abundance.' ' This is the annual custom,' continues the crier. ' God hath given abundance,' repeat the boys. ' ' And may you live to every year ! ' God ! hath given abundance ' ' And if the hoarder of grain wish for a scarcity '— ! ' God hath given abundance ' ' May God visit him with blindness and affliction ere he dies ! ' * God ' hath given abundance ! ' This generous person ' (here the crier personally addresses himself to the master of the house before which he is standing) ' loveth the generous—an admirable palace is built for him in Paradise—and its columns are incomparable jewels—instead of palm-sticks and timber and it has a thousand windows that open—and before every window is Selsebil (the Fountain of the Blest)—Paradise is the abode of the generous—and hell is the abode of the niggardly.' In every pause the boys ejaculate, 'God hath ' given abundance ! ' May God not cause me to stop before the door of an avaricious woman, nor any avaricious man,' continues the crier sarcastically— ' nor of one who measures water in a jar— nor who counts the bread while it is yet dough—and if a cake be wanting orders a fast—nor who shuts up the cats at supper time—nor who drives away the dogs upon the wall.' ' God hath given abundance ! ' the boys. ' The — echo world is brightened, and the damsels have adorned themselves—and the old women tumble about—and the married man hath added to his wife eight others—and the bachelor hath married ! eighteen abundance ! ' By this time somebody, afraid of his scorn of ' ' God hath given
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^4398^'
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SOME OF MR. DOUGLAS SLADEN'S BOOKS
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ORIENTAL CAIRO THE CITY OF THE ''AR
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DEDICATED, IN MEMORY OF DAYS SPENT
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VI 11 Preface wc have him in the st
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^ CHAPTER Contents PAGE IV. THE APP
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^" CHAPTKH Contents XXXII. MEMPHIS,
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'^^^ List of Illustrations FACING A
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xvi List of Illustrations FACING PA
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NATIVK liUa Ul Il!l. .MOKI". KIUIMC
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2 Oriental Cairo After this I hope
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4 Oriental Cairo that Cairo was inh
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I HE OCCITATION OF EGYPT SLEIil'INt
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6 Oriental Cairo The minarets of El
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8 Oriental Cairo On every side the
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CASTING iU.^ t-VE : A LITTLE COMEDY
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lo Oriental Cairo is followed by a
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3 Q :n A Uj < -d ^ 'i < 1 S 5 _ i>
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12 Oriental Cairo XXV. XXVI. XXVII.
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14 Oriental Cairo drive along the f
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A GRAND JEWISH FUNERAL AT CAIRO (ll
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1 6 Oriental Cairo V. The Sharia Mo
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1 8 Oriental Cairo a splendid stret
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20 Oriental Cairo XIV, The Beit-Gam
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BEDAWIN AT THE OIZUH MARKET. In fro
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22 Oriental Cairo the right into th
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24 Oriental Cairo ancient mosques w
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26 Oriental Cairo tlic perpendicula
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28 Oriental Cairo glare of an indes
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I A A SNAKE CHARMER. The saakeiii o
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30 Oriental Cairo med AH on the eas
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32 Oriental Cairo several ways is t
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34 Oriental Cairo drive round this
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36 Oriental Cairo LII. The Mo'allak
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3 8 Oriental Cairo the desert is th
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A SUA fc.K-AND-l\f>I
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40 Oriental Cairo features and expr
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42 Oriental Cairo Phoenixes in the
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FORAGE CAMEL X'Mr Ihfj |iii tiiri--
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44 Oriental Cairo administration of
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4^ Oriental Cairo dile on his head
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48 Oriental Cairo smokinc^. While I
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WOMAN CARRYING A HUGE IRON CAULDRON
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50 Oriental Cairo with the mere acc
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52 Oriental Cairo are also much add
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THE CHAPTER III The Humours of the
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56 Oriental Cairo restaurateurs and
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58 Oriental Cairo stick of Edinburg
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m^Miiiiiif tit^wa illKI I. AKAb l.K
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6o Oriental Cairo I have often phot
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62 Oriental Cairo the man who canno
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CHAPTER IV The Approach to the Nati
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THE CORNER OF THE ATABA-RI.-KH AUK
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66 Oriental Cairo out of doors, for
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68 Oriental Cairo cane-scllers and
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70 Oriental Cairo Soon you pass int
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CHAPTER V The Bazars of Cairo: the
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The Bazars of Cairo 73 mediasval ma
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The Bazars of Cairo 75 he will lose
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The Bazars of Cairo 77 Turkish town
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The Bazars of Cairo 79 who muzzle t
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The Bazars of Cairo When the typica
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The Bazars of Cairo 83 the broad Sh
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r c P8 c c v> R in C T) o B D > a 2
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THE CHAPTER VI Our Dragoman first t
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Our Dragoman 87 was very courageous
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Our Dragoman 89 the seventeenth cen
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Our Dragoman 91 street for us when
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Our Dragoman 93 ware he sold second
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How to Shop in Cairo 95 museum. The
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p. 9
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How to Shop in Cairo 97 your ancien
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How to Shop in Cairo 99 have fine o
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How to Shop in Cairo lor London, a
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How to Shop in Cairo 103 adjured, t
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A MARRIAGE PROCESSION', WITH THE HO
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How to Shop in Cairo 105 ing shopke
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How to Shop in Cairo 107 Except in
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Cairo at Night 109 and their huge f
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Cairo at Night 1 1 chairs that you
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Cairo at Night 113 spectacle late t
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p. ri4] AN EFFENDI HAVING HIS FORTU
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The Entertainments of the Arabs 115
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The Entertainments of the Arabs 117
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The -Entertainments of the Arabs 11
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CHAPTER X An Arab Bank Holiday: the
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^»ii!J' GREEKS DANCING I.\ THE GAR
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An Arab Bank Holiday: the Shem-en^N
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An Arab Bank Holiday: the Sheni'en'
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THE CHAPTER XI The Cairo Zoo Cairo
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The Cairo Zoo 129 be there without
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The Cairo Zoo 131 he adopted as he
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THE CHAPTER XII The Arab and Bedawi
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The Arab and Bedawin Markets of Cai
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WEST CHAPTER XIII The Old Arab Stre
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 143 h
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo HS on
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 147 d
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 149 o
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 151 s
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CHAPTER XIV The Characteristics of
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The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
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The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
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iJIE HEART OF CAIRO. The old gate c
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I CHAPTER XV The Mosques of Cairo S
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The Mosques of Cairo i6i with mosqu
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The Mosques of Cairo 163 is to the
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The Mosques of Cairo 165 enter the
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The Mosques of Cairo 167 street. If
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The Mosques of Cairo 169 love its l
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a. 5' & > 3 5 n n -3 05 P a H o > H
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The Mosques of Cairo 171 panelling
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The Mosques of Cairo 173 Cardinal W
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The Mosques of Cairo 175 delicate i
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The Mosques of Cairo i77 arabesqued
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The Mosques of Cairo i79 open air i
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The Mosques of Cairo i8i outlined w
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The Mosques of Cairo 183 for regula
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CHAPTER XVI EI'Azhar, the Universit
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EI-'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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CHAPTER XVII Old Cairo and the Wond
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Old Cairo i95 A few enterprising fo
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Old Cairo 197 minaret is sugared ov
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Old Cairo 199 The effect of this da
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THIS PICTUKIi SHOWS THE BURKA OR FA
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202 Oriental Cairo Behind this scre
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204 Oriental Cairo place guide taki
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2o6 Oriental Cairo Some of the anci
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2o8 Oriental Cairo The massacre too
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2IO Oriental Cairo gilt foolscap pu
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212 Oriental Cairo of Jacob was of
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CHAPTER XIX Concerning the Tombs of
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2i6 Oriental Cairo Individually, in
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2i8 Oriental Cairo of the palace of
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a. a
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2 20 Oriental Cairo " Then came the
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222 Oriental Cairo of the Saint of
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224 Oriental Cairo for their beauty
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226 Oriental Cairo noticed hardly a
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22 8 Oriental Cairo large rings of
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o /. := O ::: a C a H « g
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230 Oriental Cairo added something
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232 Oriental Cairo gay festoons of
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234 Oriental Cairo cessive sheykh o
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236 Oriental Cairo cuts up the part
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THE PROCESSION OF THE HOLY CARPET,
Page 308 and 309: 238 Oriental Cairo are carried in a
Page 310 and 311: 240 Oriental Cairo spectacle was wo
Page 312 and 313: 242 Oriental Cairo malignant e)'es
Page 314 and 315: THE CHAPTER XXII The Ashura and its
Page 316 and 317: 246 Oriental Cairo ciation of forei
Page 318 and 319: 248 Oriental Cairo that Ramidge had
Page 320 and 321: 250 Oriental Cairo I was disappoint
Page 322 and 323: 252 Oriental Cairo the supposed inc
Page 324 and 325: THE RETURN' OF THE PILGRIM FROM MEC
Page 326 and 327: 2 54 Oriental Cairo front, and bras
Page 328 and 329: 2^6 Oriental Cairo houses were deco
Page 330 and 331: 258 Oriental Cairo to take the plun
Page 332 and 333: 26o Oriental Cairo presence was det
Page 334 and 335: 262 Oriental Cairo listening to tha
Page 336 and 337: AS too crowded ; CHAPTER XXIV The M
Page 338 and 339: 266 Oriental Cairo pride of the Mus
Page 340 and 341: 268 Oriental Cairo and furniture of
Page 342 and 343: 270 Oriental Cairo In the galleries
Page 344 and 345: CHAPTER XXV The Arab Hammam—A Cla
Page 346 and 347: 274 Oriental Cairo The entrance is
Page 348 and 349: 276 Oriental Cairo They smiled cour
Page 350 and 351: 278 Oriental Cairo To the women, of
Page 352 and 353: IF CHAPTER XXVI Roda Island and Mos
Page 354 and 355: |ii(ti ti .mil m ^0 "^^ A (.uRM.K o
Page 356 and 357: 2 82 Oriental Cairo the boxes had h
Page 360 and 361: 2 86 Oriental Cairo avarice, or caj
Page 362 and 363: 288 OHental Cairo another officer i
Page 364 and 365: 290 Oriental Cairo antiquity, since
Page 366 and 367: CHAPTER XXVI The Old Coptic Churche
Page 368 and 369: 294 Oriental Cairo When we left the
Page 370 and 371: 296 Oriental Cairo through more tha
Page 372 and 373: 298 Oriental Cairo polite and cordi
Page 374 and 375: 300 Oriental Cairo " Who is this Ki
Page 376: ROD-EL-FARAG CHAPTER XXVIII Rod^el'
Page 379 and 380: Rod^el^Faragf and Shubra 303 ostric
Page 381 and 382: Rod'-el'Farag and Shubra 305 vitali
Page 383 and 384: On the Humours of the Desert 307 ti
Page 385 and 386: On the Humours of the Desert 309 ho
Page 387 and 388: On the Humours of the Desert 3 1 by
Page 389 and 390: P- 312] THE SPHINX BETWEEN- THE FIR
Page 391 and 392: On the Pyramids 313 Falls of Niagar
Page 393 and 394: On the Pyramids 315 left the horse
Page 395 and 396: On the Pyramids 317 Cheops to the S
Page 397 and 398: On the Pyramids 319 a sort of bear-
Page 399 and 400: On the Pyramids 321 cannot hold the
Page 401 and 402: On the Pyramids 323 being which has
Page 403 and 404: OUR CHAPTER XXXI Sleeping at the Fe
Page 405 and 406: Sleeping at the Feet of the Sphinx
Page 407 and 408: Sleeping at the Feet of the Sphinx
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Sleeping at the Feet of the Sphinx
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Memphis; Tombs and Pyramids of Sakk
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13* o O s a o -i B o o > 2 C 71
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33 6 Oriental Cairo Behind the Pjra
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33^ Oriental Cairo feet high. There
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340 Oriental Cairo human touches Hk
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34^ Oriental Cairo at Heliopolis ca
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344 Oriental Cairo under the soil,
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34^ Oriental Cairo I bitterly regre
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CHAPTER XXXIV Helwan, the Week-end
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3S° Oriental Cairo wealthy, and th
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25'^ Appendix I for the same price.
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APPENDIX II Cairo was the Real Scen
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35^ Appendix II note by the same pe
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' 35^ Appendix II of the East ; nat
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360 Appendix II come across one of
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362 Appendix III known saint El-Gul
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364 Appendix III And there were oth
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366 Appendix III picturesque route
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APPENDIX IV Mr. Roosevelt's Speech
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370 Appendix IV " Your men in Afric
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372 Appendix IV such success. The i
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374 Appendix IV performing the task
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37^ Appendix IV you went into Egypt
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37 8 Rulers and Monuments of Mediae
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380 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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382 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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384 Index Baths, Arab women's, 278
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386 Index Gizeh paJace, 128 Gohar,
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1 388 Index Mosque tickets, 8g Mosq
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390 Index Sharia {covtinued) El-Klu
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PRINTED BV HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY
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'iWA:;t-. ^smi'
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