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146 Oriental Cairo re-ercct it on the banks of the Nile, with the modern portion made worthy of the exquisite old Arabic materials. The price they would get for the site of the house and garden in the Sharia Kasr-el-Nil would pay for the new. site, and the taking down and rebuilding, and leave a very large surplus. A business quarter has grown up round its present position. The chief streets of the Citadel quarter for architecture are the Gamaliya, the Suk-es-Nahassin, the Suk-es-Zalat, the Sharia Emir-el-Giyuchi, the Sharia Khordagiya, the Sharia el- Akkadin, the Sharia el-Menaggadin, the Sukkariya, the Sharia Kasabat-Radowan, the Sharia el-Magharbelin, the Sharia el- Serugiya, the Sharia el-Merdani, the Haret-el-Merdani, the Sharia Darb-el-Ahmah, the Sharia Bab-el- Wazir, the Sharia el-Magar, the Sharia Suk-es-Sullah, and the Sharia Gama- mise. What are the characteristics ; what is the kodaker and sightseer to look for in one of these Arab streets ? Mosques, schools, fountains, baths, old palaces, kJians, silks, oil-mills. Dervish tekkes, and people engaged in the common round and trivial tasks of native life. A good street to begin with is the Suk-es-Zalat, which becomes the Sharia el-Emir-el-Giyuchi, and can be approached Irom the Esbckiya at the back of the Bristol Hotel by the street known as Little Sicily, or from the railway station by the highly picturesque Sharia Bab-el-Bahr. The latter is preferable unless you have a desire to explore the Fishmarket. Several times had I cast hungry eyes on the Sharia Bab-el- Bahr before I explored it, when I had seen pilgrims or marriage processions disappear between its beetling houses and shops of strange wares. When I went down it I was a little disappointed. It was only semi-Arab till it reached the first of the two s^ks, but the SClk-es-Zalat is a typical native street with all the points. A shower of rain converts it into a red sea of mud. It is bordered with humble shops under, and in between, fine old mameluke mansions, and it has old mosques and baths and oil-mills. There are brass-workers here who do a little
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 147 dealing in old brass. I have bought choice pieces here. But the charm of the street lies in its beautiful buildings, hardly important enough to be monuments, and in its placid native life. The artist finds some of his choicest bits here. There is one old mameluke house with three long tiers of niesh- rebiydd oriels facing the street and a graciously arabesqued courtyard ; another, in which the hand of the destroyer has torn down one side- wall of the court, revealing screens and ceilings of woodwork which no other house in Cairo can boast. There is a bath with marble-panelled chambers and marble fountains and arches, which would have done for a Caliph of the Middle Ages ; and an old oil-mill with pointed arches which ought to have belonged to Westminster Abbey. The mosques are not on the grand scale, but they have mellowed out of the perpendicular with age, and their facades are graciously arabesqued and their courts old and romantic. There is hardly anything in the street thought worthy of mention by Baedeker or Murray, yet it is all paintable from end to end. The Haret-el-Merdani behind the great Merdani mosque, has a couple of splendid old mansions ; the adjoining road, leading down to the Suk of the Armourers, has several, but both of them are too native to have any life in the streets. The houses mostly belong to Arabs of the old school, who keep their front doors shut and locked, whereas Cairo generally, in the security of the British Occupation, leaves its courts open to the passer-by. I speak from experience : under All's audacious escort I tried to get into every courtyard that gave hopes of having any architectural pretensions. Streets like these are not easy to find, for commerce has intruded into most of the streets which are rich in old buildings, and the courtyards are the first things which are turned into business premises. The Gamaliya is an example of this ; few streets in Cairo are so rich in old buildings, but hardly one of them is a private mansion any longer. The mameluke houses may be taken as the type of the best Arab mansions in Cairo. I only know one foreigner who has had the sense to take one and do it up in the old style.
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^4398^'
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SOME OF MR. DOUGLAS SLADEN'S BOOKS
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ORIENTAL CAIRO THE CITY OF THE ''AR
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DEDICATED, IN MEMORY OF DAYS SPENT
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VI 11 Preface wc have him in the st
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^ CHAPTER Contents PAGE IV. THE APP
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^" CHAPTKH Contents XXXII. MEMPHIS,
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'^^^ List of Illustrations FACING A
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xvi List of Illustrations FACING PA
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NATIVK liUa Ul Il!l. .MOKI". KIUIMC
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2 Oriental Cairo After this I hope
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4 Oriental Cairo that Cairo was inh
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I HE OCCITATION OF EGYPT SLEIil'INt
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6 Oriental Cairo The minarets of El
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8 Oriental Cairo On every side the
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CASTING iU.^ t-VE : A LITTLE COMEDY
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lo Oriental Cairo is followed by a
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3 Q :n A Uj < -d ^ 'i < 1 S 5 _ i>
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12 Oriental Cairo XXV. XXVI. XXVII.
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14 Oriental Cairo drive along the f
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A GRAND JEWISH FUNERAL AT CAIRO (ll
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1 6 Oriental Cairo V. The Sharia Mo
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1 8 Oriental Cairo a splendid stret
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20 Oriental Cairo XIV, The Beit-Gam
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BEDAWIN AT THE OIZUH MARKET. In fro
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22 Oriental Cairo the right into th
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24 Oriental Cairo ancient mosques w
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26 Oriental Cairo tlic perpendicula
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28 Oriental Cairo glare of an indes
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I A A SNAKE CHARMER. The saakeiii o
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30 Oriental Cairo med AH on the eas
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32 Oriental Cairo several ways is t
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34 Oriental Cairo drive round this
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36 Oriental Cairo LII. The Mo'allak
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3 8 Oriental Cairo the desert is th
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A SUA fc.K-AND-l\f>I
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40 Oriental Cairo features and expr
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42 Oriental Cairo Phoenixes in the
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FORAGE CAMEL X'Mr Ihfj |iii tiiri--
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44 Oriental Cairo administration of
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4^ Oriental Cairo dile on his head
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48 Oriental Cairo smokinc^. While I
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WOMAN CARRYING A HUGE IRON CAULDRON
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50 Oriental Cairo with the mere acc
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52 Oriental Cairo are also much add
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THE CHAPTER III The Humours of the
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56 Oriental Cairo restaurateurs and
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58 Oriental Cairo stick of Edinburg
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m^Miiiiiif tit^wa illKI I. AKAb l.K
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6o Oriental Cairo I have often phot
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62 Oriental Cairo the man who canno
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CHAPTER IV The Approach to the Nati
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THE CORNER OF THE ATABA-RI.-KH AUK
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66 Oriental Cairo out of doors, for
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68 Oriental Cairo cane-scllers and
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70 Oriental Cairo Soon you pass int
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CHAPTER V The Bazars of Cairo: the
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The Bazars of Cairo 73 mediasval ma
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The Bazars of Cairo 75 he will lose
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The Bazars of Cairo 77 Turkish town
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The Bazars of Cairo 79 who muzzle t
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The Bazars of Cairo When the typica
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The Bazars of Cairo 83 the broad Sh
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r c P8 c c v> R in C T) o B D > a 2
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THE CHAPTER VI Our Dragoman first t
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Our Dragoman 87 was very courageous
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Our Dragoman 89 the seventeenth cen
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Our Dragoman 91 street for us when
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Our Dragoman 93 ware he sold second
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How to Shop in Cairo 95 museum. The
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p. 9
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How to Shop in Cairo 97 your ancien
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How to Shop in Cairo 99 have fine o
Page 153 and 154: How to Shop in Cairo lor London, a
Page 155 and 156: How to Shop in Cairo 103 adjured, t
Page 157 and 158: A MARRIAGE PROCESSION', WITH THE HO
Page 159 and 160: How to Shop in Cairo 105 ing shopke
Page 161 and 162: How to Shop in Cairo 107 Except in
Page 163 and 164: Cairo at Night 109 and their huge f
Page 165 and 166: Cairo at Night 1 1 chairs that you
Page 167 and 168: Cairo at Night 113 spectacle late t
Page 169 and 170: p. ri4] AN EFFENDI HAVING HIS FORTU
Page 171 and 172: The Entertainments of the Arabs 115
Page 173 and 174: The Entertainments of the Arabs 117
Page 175 and 176: The -Entertainments of the Arabs 11
Page 177 and 178: CHAPTER X An Arab Bank Holiday: the
Page 179 and 180: ^»ii!J' GREEKS DANCING I.\ THE GAR
Page 181 and 182: An Arab Bank Holiday: the Shem-en^N
Page 183 and 184: An Arab Bank Holiday: the Sheni'en'
Page 185 and 186: THE CHAPTER XI The Cairo Zoo Cairo
Page 187 and 188: The Cairo Zoo 129 be there without
Page 189 and 190: The Cairo Zoo 131 he adopted as he
Page 191 and 192: THE CHAPTER XII The Arab and Bedawi
Page 193 and 194: The Arab and Bedawin Markets of Cai
Page 199 and 200: WEST CHAPTER XIII The Old Arab Stre
Page 201 and 202: The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 143 h
Page 203: The Old Arab Streets of Cairo HS on
Page 207 and 208: The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 149 o
Page 209 and 210: The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 151 s
Page 211 and 212: CHAPTER XIV The Characteristics of
Page 213 and 214: The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
Page 215 and 216: The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
Page 217 and 218: iJIE HEART OF CAIRO. The old gate c
Page 219 and 220: I CHAPTER XV The Mosques of Cairo S
Page 221 and 222: The Mosques of Cairo i6i with mosqu
Page 223 and 224: The Mosques of Cairo 163 is to the
Page 225 and 226: The Mosques of Cairo 165 enter the
Page 227 and 228: The Mosques of Cairo 167 street. If
Page 229 and 230: The Mosques of Cairo 169 love its l
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Page 233 and 234: The Mosques of Cairo 171 panelling
Page 235 and 236: The Mosques of Cairo 173 Cardinal W
Page 237 and 238: The Mosques of Cairo 175 delicate i
Page 239 and 240: The Mosques of Cairo i77 arabesqued
Page 241 and 242: The Mosques of Cairo i79 open air i
Page 243 and 244: The Mosques of Cairo i8i outlined w
Page 245 and 246: The Mosques of Cairo 183 for regula
Page 247 and 248: CHAPTER XVI EI'Azhar, the Universit
Page 249 and 250: EI-'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
Page 251 and 252: EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
Page 253 and 254: EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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CHAPTER XVII Old Cairo and the Wond
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Old Cairo i95 A few enterprising fo
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Old Cairo 197 minaret is sugared ov
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Old Cairo 199 The effect of this da
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THIS PICTUKIi SHOWS THE BURKA OR FA
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202 Oriental Cairo Behind this scre
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204 Oriental Cairo place guide taki
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2o6 Oriental Cairo Some of the anci
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2o8 Oriental Cairo The massacre too
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2IO Oriental Cairo gilt foolscap pu
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212 Oriental Cairo of Jacob was of
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CHAPTER XIX Concerning the Tombs of
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2i6 Oriental Cairo Individually, in
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2i8 Oriental Cairo of the palace of
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a. a
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2 20 Oriental Cairo " Then came the
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222 Oriental Cairo of the Saint of
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224 Oriental Cairo for their beauty
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226 Oriental Cairo noticed hardly a
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22 8 Oriental Cairo large rings of
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o /. := O ::: a C a H « g
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230 Oriental Cairo added something
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232 Oriental Cairo gay festoons of
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234 Oriental Cairo cessive sheykh o
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236 Oriental Cairo cuts up the part
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THE PROCESSION OF THE HOLY CARPET,
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238 Oriental Cairo are carried in a
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240 Oriental Cairo spectacle was wo
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242 Oriental Cairo malignant e)'es
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THE CHAPTER XXII The Ashura and its
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246 Oriental Cairo ciation of forei
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248 Oriental Cairo that Ramidge had
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250 Oriental Cairo I was disappoint
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252 Oriental Cairo the supposed inc
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THE RETURN' OF THE PILGRIM FROM MEC
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2 54 Oriental Cairo front, and bras
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2^6 Oriental Cairo houses were deco
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258 Oriental Cairo to take the plun
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26o Oriental Cairo presence was det
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262 Oriental Cairo listening to tha
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AS too crowded ; CHAPTER XXIV The M
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266 Oriental Cairo pride of the Mus
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268 Oriental Cairo and furniture of
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270 Oriental Cairo In the galleries
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CHAPTER XXV The Arab Hammam—A Cla
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274 Oriental Cairo The entrance is
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276 Oriental Cairo They smiled cour
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278 Oriental Cairo To the women, of
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IF CHAPTER XXVI Roda Island and Mos
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|ii(ti ti .mil m ^0 "^^ A (.uRM.K o
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2 82 Oriental Cairo the boxes had h
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284 Oriental Cairo to overhang the
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2 86 Oriental Cairo avarice, or caj
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288 OHental Cairo another officer i
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290 Oriental Cairo antiquity, since
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CHAPTER XXVI The Old Coptic Churche
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294 Oriental Cairo When we left the
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296 Oriental Cairo through more tha
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298 Oriental Cairo polite and cordi
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300 Oriental Cairo " Who is this Ki
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ROD-EL-FARAG CHAPTER XXVIII Rod^el'
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Rod^el^Faragf and Shubra 303 ostric
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Rod'-el'Farag and Shubra 305 vitali
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On the Humours of the Desert 307 ti
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On the Humours of the Desert 309 ho
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On the Humours of the Desert 3 1 by
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P- 312] THE SPHINX BETWEEN- THE FIR
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On the Pyramids 313 Falls of Niagar
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On the Pyramids 315 left the horse
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On the Pyramids 317 Cheops to the S
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On the Pyramids 319 a sort of bear-
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On the Pyramids 321 cannot hold the
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On the Pyramids 323 being which has
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OUR CHAPTER XXXI Sleeping at the Fe
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Sleeping at the Feet of the Sphinx
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Memphis; Tombs and Pyramids of Sakk
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13* o O s a o -i B o o > 2 C 71
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33 6 Oriental Cairo Behind the Pjra
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33^ Oriental Cairo feet high. There
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340 Oriental Cairo human touches Hk
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34^ Oriental Cairo at Heliopolis ca
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344 Oriental Cairo under the soil,
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34^ Oriental Cairo I bitterly regre
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CHAPTER XXXIV Helwan, the Week-end
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3S° Oriental Cairo wealthy, and th
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25'^ Appendix I for the same price.
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APPENDIX II Cairo was the Real Scen
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35^ Appendix II note by the same pe
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' 35^ Appendix II of the East ; nat
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360 Appendix II come across one of
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362 Appendix III known saint El-Gul
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364 Appendix III And there were oth
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366 Appendix III picturesque route
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APPENDIX IV Mr. Roosevelt's Speech
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370 Appendix IV " Your men in Afric
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372 Appendix IV such success. The i
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374 Appendix IV performing the task
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37^ Appendix IV you went into Egypt
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37 8 Rulers and Monuments of Mediae
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380 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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382 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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384 Index Baths, Arab women's, 278
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386 Index Gizeh paJace, 128 Gohar,
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1 388 Index Mosque tickets, 8g Mosq
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390 Index Sharia {covtinued) El-Klu
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PRINTED BV HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY
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'iWA:;t-. ^smi'
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