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Memphis; Tombs and Pyramids of Sakkara 337<br />

dead man's double. If food was painted on the walls he did<br />

not feel hunger ; if the conciliation of deities was attended<br />

to in the same way he suffered no inconvenience at their<br />

hands.<br />

As the dead Egyptian wished to enjoy the same luxuries<br />

and pleasures that he possessed in life, the whole life of the<br />

wealthy of that day is depicted on their tombs. Their flocks<br />

and their herds, the artisan's and craftsman's work of their<br />

slaves, their hunting, their banqueting, their sacrificing, are<br />

all carved in exquisite low-relief, or depicted m bright<br />

colours, on the walls of the tombs of Thi and Mereruka and<br />

Ptah-Hetep. They even have make-believe doors in the<br />

steles for the use of the double.<br />

The tomb of Mereruka has a special feature of its own :<br />

the life-sized figure of the occupant standing at the head of<br />

steps as if he was about to descend into the tomb—a most<br />

wonderful and life-like piece of sculpture. From it, and the<br />

pieces like it in the Cairo Museum, one knows the Egyptians<br />

as they were before the days of Joseph and Moses— mild-<br />

eyed, soft-featured, light-coloured. The statues are realistic ;<br />

the bas-reliefs, on the other hand, are so conventionalised<br />

that they tell us nothing of the type, though they are eloquent<br />

of the life.<br />

These tombs are brilliantly lit with sunlight, and have<br />

no trace of damp or malodour. They are entered like an<br />

Etruscan tomb—down a staircase or ramp laid bare when the<br />

earth which concealed their entrance was removed. They<br />

are very bright and cheerful. The only thing against them<br />

is that they look like imitations of themselves. Some of<br />

the reproductions of Etruscan tombs in the Vatican look<br />

quite as real.<br />

The piece de resistance at Sakkara is the celebrated catacomb<br />

of the Apis bulls. Its extent, like its antiquity, is<br />

immense. Its galleries are more than a thousand feet long.<br />

The oldest of the tombs date back to the time of Rameses<br />

the Great. I have seldom been in so eerie a place. We<br />

were taken down into the bowels of the earth, and found<br />

ourselves in a vast subterranean gallery in some places fifty<br />

22

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