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86 Oriental Cairo He proved to know a good deal of English and possessed the valuable quality of saying, when he was asked a question w hich puzzled him : " I not know ; I ask somebody." This meant that he would ask everybody round us till he elicited the information we required, which was generally the name of some ancient and adorable building that had escaped the mesh of the guide-books. When wc parted, Ali took his shilling with an air of politeness and content, and said that he was always to be found between the Bab-es-Zuwcyla and the Tentmakers' Bazar. We saw nothing more of him till we returned many weeks later from our trip to Khartum. Then, one day as we were issuing from the Tentmakers' Bazar, a voice saluted us: "Hallo; I not seen you lately." " No ; we have been away in the Sudan." " Well, olright ; I come with you now." We did not need him, but he told us the story of the giant, seven or six metres high, who had hung the clubs half-way up the towers of the Bab-es-Zuweyla with such an air of con- viction that we thought it would be our loss if we did not engage him to babble to us at the same modest fee of a shilling for the morning. After that he always accompanied us when we passed the Bab-es-Zuweyla, and we used to take that route to the bazars on purpose. It did not cost us anything, for he saved more than his own fee in preventing us from being overcharged by others. He forfeited his commissions at shops by the resolute way in which he beat down prices for us. If the shopkeeper refused to be equitable, he said : "Come away ; that man no good," or, " I know cheaper place." When I insisted on paying the man's price, because I wanted that particular thing, I used to say : " Now, Ali, go back to that shop afterwards and make him give you commission for taking us there," and he used to answer, " If you not mind, I try." He was the most honest Arab I ever struck : he never once tried to get the better of us, and he had another useful quality. He was, as I have said, a big, strong man, and he
Our Dragoman 87 was very courageous. More than once when my ardour in sight-seeing had carried me to places in the Arab city where it was not really safe for English people to go, and the Arab hooligans began to hustle, they found they had a lion to deal with in Ali. One could go anywhere with him. One day I could not find him. Next day he told me that he had been in prison, waiting to be tried. He had had to fight a man while he was out with a foreign gentleman. " This morning tried," he said. " The man have to go to prison for two months. I have to pay a hundred piastres for constructing a disturbance." I offered to pay his fine, but he said, " English gentleman I with paid it." When I told the Commissioner of Police about this afterwards, he made a note of it in Ali's favour, though Ali had to go to prison for it. It is the Commissioner of Police who issues dragomans' licences. Ali was delightfully devout and sentimental. Sometimes when we went into a mosque—the mosque of the Sultan Shab'an for one—he said : " This very holy person's place ; I say my prayers here." Once as we were coming back from the Tombs of the Caliphs he stopped beside a little enclosure of graves and wept. " All I have in the world here," he said simply. " I all alone now." Sometimes when I asked him for a place like the Mosque of Abu-Bekr, which is not near any other, he said : " I think no such place ; but you know." I told him the directions they had given me for finding this mosque at the VVakfs (where they had recommended me not to miss it), and it was marked in a vague way on one of the maps, printed right across a nest of small streets. I took my bearings as well as I could and steered for it. Ali asked every one we met, but nobody knew it by that name, though gradually Ali began to receive hints that there was a very old and beautiful mosque in the district, and this mosque we eventually ran to earth. Then we discovered that it had a name about a yard long, with the words Abu-Bekr coming in the middle ! Europeans words—that was all. had not selected the significant
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SOME OF MR. DOUGLAS SLADEN'S BOOKS
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ORIENTAL CAIRO THE CITY OF THE ''AR
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DEDICATED, IN MEMORY OF DAYS SPENT
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VI 11 Preface wc have him in the st
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^ CHAPTER Contents PAGE IV. THE APP
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^" CHAPTKH Contents XXXII. MEMPHIS,
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'^^^ List of Illustrations FACING A
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xvi List of Illustrations FACING PA
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NATIVK liUa Ul Il!l. .MOKI". KIUIMC
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2 Oriental Cairo After this I hope
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4 Oriental Cairo that Cairo was inh
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I HE OCCITATION OF EGYPT SLEIil'INt
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6 Oriental Cairo The minarets of El
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8 Oriental Cairo On every side the
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CASTING iU.^ t-VE : A LITTLE COMEDY
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lo Oriental Cairo is followed by a
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3 Q :n A Uj < -d ^ 'i < 1 S 5 _ i>
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12 Oriental Cairo XXV. XXVI. XXVII.
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14 Oriental Cairo drive along the f
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A GRAND JEWISH FUNERAL AT CAIRO (ll
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1 6 Oriental Cairo V. The Sharia Mo
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1 8 Oriental Cairo a splendid stret
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20 Oriental Cairo XIV, The Beit-Gam
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BEDAWIN AT THE OIZUH MARKET. In fro
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22 Oriental Cairo the right into th
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24 Oriental Cairo ancient mosques w
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26 Oriental Cairo tlic perpendicula
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28 Oriental Cairo glare of an indes
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I A A SNAKE CHARMER. The saakeiii o
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30 Oriental Cairo med AH on the eas
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32 Oriental Cairo several ways is t
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34 Oriental Cairo drive round this
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36 Oriental Cairo LII. The Mo'allak
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3 8 Oriental Cairo the desert is th
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A SUA fc.K-AND-l\f>I
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40 Oriental Cairo features and expr
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42 Oriental Cairo Phoenixes in the
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FORAGE CAMEL X'Mr Ihfj |iii tiiri--
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44 Oriental Cairo administration of
Page 86 and 87: 4^ Oriental Cairo dile on his head
Page 88 and 89: 48 Oriental Cairo smokinc^. While I
Page 90 and 91: WOMAN CARRYING A HUGE IRON CAULDRON
Page 92 and 93: 50 Oriental Cairo with the mere acc
Page 94 and 95: 52 Oriental Cairo are also much add
Page 96 and 97: THE CHAPTER III The Humours of the
Page 98 and 99: 56 Oriental Cairo restaurateurs and
Page 100 and 101: 58 Oriental Cairo stick of Edinburg
Page 102 and 103: m^Miiiiiif tit^wa illKI I. AKAb l.K
Page 104 and 105: 6o Oriental Cairo I have often phot
Page 106 and 107: 62 Oriental Cairo the man who canno
Page 108 and 109: CHAPTER IV The Approach to the Nati
Page 110 and 111: THE CORNER OF THE ATABA-RI.-KH AUK
Page 112 and 113: 66 Oriental Cairo out of doors, for
Page 114 and 115: 68 Oriental Cairo cane-scllers and
Page 116 and 117: 70 Oriental Cairo Soon you pass int
Page 118: CHAPTER V The Bazars of Cairo: the
Page 121 and 122: The Bazars of Cairo 73 mediasval ma
Page 123 and 124: The Bazars of Cairo 75 he will lose
Page 125 and 126: The Bazars of Cairo 77 Turkish town
Page 127 and 128: The Bazars of Cairo 79 who muzzle t
Page 129 and 130: The Bazars of Cairo When the typica
Page 131 and 132: The Bazars of Cairo 83 the broad Sh
Page 133 and 134: r c P8 c c v> R in C T) o B D > a 2
Page 135: THE CHAPTER VI Our Dragoman first t
Page 139 and 140: Our Dragoman 89 the seventeenth cen
Page 141 and 142: Our Dragoman 91 street for us when
Page 143 and 144: Our Dragoman 93 ware he sold second
Page 145 and 146: How to Shop in Cairo 95 museum. The
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Page 149 and 150: How to Shop in Cairo 97 your ancien
Page 151 and 152: How to Shop in Cairo 99 have fine o
Page 153 and 154: How to Shop in Cairo lor London, a
Page 155 and 156: How to Shop in Cairo 103 adjured, t
Page 157 and 158: A MARRIAGE PROCESSION', WITH THE HO
Page 159 and 160: How to Shop in Cairo 105 ing shopke
Page 161 and 162: How to Shop in Cairo 107 Except in
Page 163 and 164: Cairo at Night 109 and their huge f
Page 165 and 166: Cairo at Night 1 1 chairs that you
Page 167 and 168: Cairo at Night 113 spectacle late t
Page 169 and 170: p. ri4] AN EFFENDI HAVING HIS FORTU
Page 171 and 172: The Entertainments of the Arabs 115
Page 173 and 174: The Entertainments of the Arabs 117
Page 175 and 176: The -Entertainments of the Arabs 11
Page 177 and 178: CHAPTER X An Arab Bank Holiday: the
Page 179 and 180: ^»ii!J' GREEKS DANCING I.\ THE GAR
Page 181 and 182: An Arab Bank Holiday: the Shem-en^N
Page 183 and 184: An Arab Bank Holiday: the Sheni'en'
Page 185 and 186: THE CHAPTER XI The Cairo Zoo Cairo
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The Cairo Zoo 129 be there without
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The Cairo Zoo 131 he adopted as he
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THE CHAPTER XII The Arab and Bedawi
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The Arab and Bedawin Markets of Cai
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WEST CHAPTER XIII The Old Arab Stre
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 143 h
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo HS on
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 147 d
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 149 o
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 151 s
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CHAPTER XIV The Characteristics of
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The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
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The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
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iJIE HEART OF CAIRO. The old gate c
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I CHAPTER XV The Mosques of Cairo S
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The Mosques of Cairo i6i with mosqu
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The Mosques of Cairo 163 is to the
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The Mosques of Cairo 165 enter the
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The Mosques of Cairo 167 street. If
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The Mosques of Cairo 169 love its l
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a. 5' & > 3 5 n n -3 05 P a H o > H
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The Mosques of Cairo 171 panelling
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The Mosques of Cairo 173 Cardinal W
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The Mosques of Cairo 175 delicate i
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The Mosques of Cairo i77 arabesqued
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The Mosques of Cairo i79 open air i
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The Mosques of Cairo i8i outlined w
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The Mosques of Cairo 183 for regula
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CHAPTER XVI EI'Azhar, the Universit
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EI-'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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CHAPTER XVII Old Cairo and the Wond
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Old Cairo i95 A few enterprising fo
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Old Cairo 197 minaret is sugared ov
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Old Cairo 199 The effect of this da
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THIS PICTUKIi SHOWS THE BURKA OR FA
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202 Oriental Cairo Behind this scre
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204 Oriental Cairo place guide taki
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2o6 Oriental Cairo Some of the anci
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2o8 Oriental Cairo The massacre too
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2IO Oriental Cairo gilt foolscap pu
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212 Oriental Cairo of Jacob was of
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CHAPTER XIX Concerning the Tombs of
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2i6 Oriental Cairo Individually, in
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2i8 Oriental Cairo of the palace of
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a. a
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2 20 Oriental Cairo " Then came the
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222 Oriental Cairo of the Saint of
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224 Oriental Cairo for their beauty
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226 Oriental Cairo noticed hardly a
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22 8 Oriental Cairo large rings of
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o /. := O ::: a C a H « g
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230 Oriental Cairo added something
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232 Oriental Cairo gay festoons of
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234 Oriental Cairo cessive sheykh o
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236 Oriental Cairo cuts up the part
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THE PROCESSION OF THE HOLY CARPET,
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238 Oriental Cairo are carried in a
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240 Oriental Cairo spectacle was wo
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242 Oriental Cairo malignant e)'es
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THE CHAPTER XXII The Ashura and its
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246 Oriental Cairo ciation of forei
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248 Oriental Cairo that Ramidge had
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250 Oriental Cairo I was disappoint
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252 Oriental Cairo the supposed inc
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THE RETURN' OF THE PILGRIM FROM MEC
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2 54 Oriental Cairo front, and bras
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2^6 Oriental Cairo houses were deco
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258 Oriental Cairo to take the plun
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26o Oriental Cairo presence was det
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262 Oriental Cairo listening to tha
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AS too crowded ; CHAPTER XXIV The M
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266 Oriental Cairo pride of the Mus
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268 Oriental Cairo and furniture of
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270 Oriental Cairo In the galleries
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CHAPTER XXV The Arab Hammam—A Cla
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274 Oriental Cairo The entrance is
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276 Oriental Cairo They smiled cour
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278 Oriental Cairo To the women, of
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IF CHAPTER XXVI Roda Island and Mos
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|ii(ti ti .mil m ^0 "^^ A (.uRM.K o
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2 82 Oriental Cairo the boxes had h
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284 Oriental Cairo to overhang the
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2 86 Oriental Cairo avarice, or caj
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288 OHental Cairo another officer i
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290 Oriental Cairo antiquity, since
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CHAPTER XXVI The Old Coptic Churche
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294 Oriental Cairo When we left the
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296 Oriental Cairo through more tha
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298 Oriental Cairo polite and cordi
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300 Oriental Cairo " Who is this Ki
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ROD-EL-FARAG CHAPTER XXVIII Rod^el'
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Rod^el^Faragf and Shubra 303 ostric
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Rod'-el'Farag and Shubra 305 vitali
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On the Humours of the Desert 307 ti
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On the Humours of the Desert 309 ho
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On the Humours of the Desert 3 1 by
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P- 312] THE SPHINX BETWEEN- THE FIR
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On the Pyramids 313 Falls of Niagar
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On the Pyramids 315 left the horse
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On the Pyramids 317 Cheops to the S
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On the Pyramids 319 a sort of bear-
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On the Pyramids 321 cannot hold the
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On the Pyramids 323 being which has
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OUR CHAPTER XXXI Sleeping at the Fe
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Sleeping at the Feet of the Sphinx
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Memphis; Tombs and Pyramids of Sakk
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13* o O s a o -i B o o > 2 C 71
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33 6 Oriental Cairo Behind the Pjra
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33^ Oriental Cairo feet high. There
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340 Oriental Cairo human touches Hk
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34^ Oriental Cairo at Heliopolis ca
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344 Oriental Cairo under the soil,
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34^ Oriental Cairo I bitterly regre
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CHAPTER XXXIV Helwan, the Week-end
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3S° Oriental Cairo wealthy, and th
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25'^ Appendix I for the same price.
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APPENDIX II Cairo was the Real Scen
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35^ Appendix II note by the same pe
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' 35^ Appendix II of the East ; nat
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360 Appendix II come across one of
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362 Appendix III known saint El-Gul
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364 Appendix III And there were oth
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366 Appendix III picturesque route
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APPENDIX IV Mr. Roosevelt's Speech
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370 Appendix IV " Your men in Afric
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372 Appendix IV such success. The i
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374 Appendix IV performing the task
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37^ Appendix IV you went into Egypt
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37 8 Rulers and Monuments of Mediae
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380 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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382 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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384 Index Baths, Arab women's, 278
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386 Index Gizeh paJace, 128 Gohar,
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1 388 Index Mosque tickets, 8g Mosq
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390 Index Sharia {covtinued) El-Klu
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PRINTED BV HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY
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'iWA:;t-. ^smi'
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