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164 Oriental Cairo The mosques of the Suk-cn-Nahassin are not typical mosques for studying the beauty of Mohammedan holiness : they have not the spaciousness and retirement ; they have not the beauty of solitude. Therefore I have not described the general aspect and conditions of a Cairo mosque interior. These are better to be seen in mosques like El-Moayyad or El-Merdani, El-Mase, or El-Ghury, as I shall show, while I am taking my readers through the principal streets for mosques. The Gamaliya is, contrary to what one would expect of such a noble architectural thoroughfare, not a good street for mosques ; it has only one great antique mosque which is not in ruins and that has lost its ancient features. But the whole long street extending from the Musky to the Bab-es- Zuweyla, and called in various parts the Sharia el-Ashrafiya, the Sharia el-Ghuriya, the Sharia el-Akkadin and the Sukkariya is full of stately mosques and so is the long winding street which leads from the Bab-es-Zuweyla to the Citadel. The former contains El-Ghury, El-Moayyad, El- Ashrafy, and others of the finest mosques in Cairo ; the latter contains the Kismas El-Ishaky mosque, El-Merdani, the Sha'ban Mosque, the Blue Mosque, and others of note and magnificence, and a whole row of perfectly delightful little zawias. El-Moayyad and El-Merdani are typical as two of the most popular and magnificent of the old mosques of Cairo restored to their ancient splendour ; and it was English influence which effected this. I shall not describe both in detail because they are rather similar, though El-Merdani is much the older and more beautiful, if less handsome. El- Ghury for size and beauty combined is the finest mosque in the city of the Kait Bey type, and I shall have to speak of others of special interest. I will not say more of El-Ashrafy, the mosque lifted high above the turmoil at the corner of the Ashrafiya and the Musk)-, a noble mosque in the grace and dignity of its architecture. It is so near El-Ghury, which I shall be taking as a type. I will pass on to the other end of the street to
The Mosques of Cairo 165 enter the grand mosque of El-Moayyad, built in 1422, so close to the Bab-es-Zuweyla gate, the centre of ancient Cairo, that its minarets were reared on the two old towers of the gate. El-Moayyad is as glorious as a cathedral. It is of great size. Its lofty, battlemented walls, designed to rival Sultan Hassan's, and exquisitively decorated in Saracen fashion with sunken panels, run for many feet along the busy thoroughfare of the Sukkariya. Like Sultan Hassan's mosque, too, it has a noble portal at the head of a marble stairway, and its bronze gates taken from that mosque are the finest in Cairo. The entrance is on the east side close to the founder's tomb, which is under a superb dome, but has no regular tombchamber. When I was there last purple-robed professors were addressing little classes all round the tomb. The nobility and dignity of these first chambers is seldom properly appreciated. Every visitor hurries on to the splendid coup dceil formed by the great Itivdn, with its vast and rich screen looking across the glittering courtyard to the garden. Alone of all the mosques of Cairo, El-Moayyad has a garden as large as a London square and planted with gay flowers, soaring palms, and eucalyptus. As a garden, in a land where anything will grow with Eden richness by the free use of water, it would not be worth mentioning were it not that it is the only real garden in a Cairo mosque. Very restful to the eye, against the blaze of marbles. El-Moayyad, with its open court and garden, is absolutely lovely inside. It is distinguished by the immense screen of massively carved dark wood which runs the entire length of its lkvd?i, and by the richness of its decoration ; it has a glorious painted roof; the marble panelling and platre ajoure and arabesques of its long eastern wall are superb. The viimbar is as richly inlaid as an Indian workbox ; the milwab stands between glorious antique porphyry columns ; the cool marbles of the main columns and dikka make a refreshing note and perhaps the crowning touch is the grand gilt lettering ;
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SOME OF MR. DOUGLAS SLADEN'S BOOKS
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ORIENTAL CAIRO THE CITY OF THE ''AR
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DEDICATED, IN MEMORY OF DAYS SPENT
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VI 11 Preface wc have him in the st
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^ CHAPTER Contents PAGE IV. THE APP
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^" CHAPTKH Contents XXXII. MEMPHIS,
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'^^^ List of Illustrations FACING A
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xvi List of Illustrations FACING PA
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NATIVK liUa Ul Il!l. .MOKI". KIUIMC
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2 Oriental Cairo After this I hope
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4 Oriental Cairo that Cairo was inh
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I HE OCCITATION OF EGYPT SLEIil'INt
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6 Oriental Cairo The minarets of El
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8 Oriental Cairo On every side the
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CASTING iU.^ t-VE : A LITTLE COMEDY
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lo Oriental Cairo is followed by a
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3 Q :n A Uj < -d ^ 'i < 1 S 5 _ i>
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12 Oriental Cairo XXV. XXVI. XXVII.
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14 Oriental Cairo drive along the f
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A GRAND JEWISH FUNERAL AT CAIRO (ll
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1 6 Oriental Cairo V. The Sharia Mo
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1 8 Oriental Cairo a splendid stret
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20 Oriental Cairo XIV, The Beit-Gam
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BEDAWIN AT THE OIZUH MARKET. In fro
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22 Oriental Cairo the right into th
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24 Oriental Cairo ancient mosques w
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26 Oriental Cairo tlic perpendicula
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28 Oriental Cairo glare of an indes
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I A A SNAKE CHARMER. The saakeiii o
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30 Oriental Cairo med AH on the eas
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32 Oriental Cairo several ways is t
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34 Oriental Cairo drive round this
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36 Oriental Cairo LII. The Mo'allak
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3 8 Oriental Cairo the desert is th
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A SUA fc.K-AND-l\f>I
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40 Oriental Cairo features and expr
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42 Oriental Cairo Phoenixes in the
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FORAGE CAMEL X'Mr Ihfj |iii tiiri--
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44 Oriental Cairo administration of
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4^ Oriental Cairo dile on his head
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48 Oriental Cairo smokinc^. While I
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WOMAN CARRYING A HUGE IRON CAULDRON
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50 Oriental Cairo with the mere acc
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52 Oriental Cairo are also much add
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THE CHAPTER III The Humours of the
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56 Oriental Cairo restaurateurs and
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58 Oriental Cairo stick of Edinburg
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m^Miiiiiif tit^wa illKI I. AKAb l.K
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6o Oriental Cairo I have often phot
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62 Oriental Cairo the man who canno
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CHAPTER IV The Approach to the Nati
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THE CORNER OF THE ATABA-RI.-KH AUK
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66 Oriental Cairo out of doors, for
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68 Oriental Cairo cane-scllers and
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70 Oriental Cairo Soon you pass int
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CHAPTER V The Bazars of Cairo: the
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The Bazars of Cairo 73 mediasval ma
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The Bazars of Cairo 75 he will lose
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The Bazars of Cairo 77 Turkish town
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The Bazars of Cairo 79 who muzzle t
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The Bazars of Cairo When the typica
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The Bazars of Cairo 83 the broad Sh
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r c P8 c c v> R in C T) o B D > a 2
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THE CHAPTER VI Our Dragoman first t
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Our Dragoman 87 was very courageous
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Our Dragoman 89 the seventeenth cen
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Our Dragoman 91 street for us when
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Our Dragoman 93 ware he sold second
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How to Shop in Cairo 95 museum. The
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p. 9
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How to Shop in Cairo 97 your ancien
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How to Shop in Cairo 99 have fine o
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How to Shop in Cairo lor London, a
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How to Shop in Cairo 103 adjured, t
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A MARRIAGE PROCESSION', WITH THE HO
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How to Shop in Cairo 105 ing shopke
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How to Shop in Cairo 107 Except in
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Cairo at Night 109 and their huge f
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Cairo at Night 1 1 chairs that you
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Cairo at Night 113 spectacle late t
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p. ri4] AN EFFENDI HAVING HIS FORTU
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The Entertainments of the Arabs 115
Page 173 and 174: The Entertainments of the Arabs 117
Page 175 and 176: The -Entertainments of the Arabs 11
Page 177 and 178: CHAPTER X An Arab Bank Holiday: the
Page 179 and 180: ^»ii!J' GREEKS DANCING I.\ THE GAR
Page 181 and 182: An Arab Bank Holiday: the Shem-en^N
Page 183 and 184: An Arab Bank Holiday: the Sheni'en'
Page 185 and 186: THE CHAPTER XI The Cairo Zoo Cairo
Page 187 and 188: The Cairo Zoo 129 be there without
Page 189 and 190: The Cairo Zoo 131 he adopted as he
Page 191 and 192: THE CHAPTER XII The Arab and Bedawi
Page 193 and 194: The Arab and Bedawin Markets of Cai
Page 199 and 200: WEST CHAPTER XIII The Old Arab Stre
Page 201 and 202: The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 143 h
Page 203 and 204: The Old Arab Streets of Cairo HS on
Page 205 and 206: The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 147 d
Page 207 and 208: The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 149 o
Page 209 and 210: The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 151 s
Page 211 and 212: CHAPTER XIV The Characteristics of
Page 213 and 214: The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
Page 215 and 216: The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
Page 217 and 218: iJIE HEART OF CAIRO. The old gate c
Page 219 and 220: I CHAPTER XV The Mosques of Cairo S
Page 221 and 222: The Mosques of Cairo i6i with mosqu
Page 223: The Mosques of Cairo 163 is to the
Page 227 and 228: The Mosques of Cairo 167 street. If
Page 229 and 230: The Mosques of Cairo 169 love its l
Page 231 and 232: a. 5' & > 3 5 n n -3 05 P a H o > H
Page 233 and 234: The Mosques of Cairo 171 panelling
Page 235 and 236: The Mosques of Cairo 173 Cardinal W
Page 237 and 238: The Mosques of Cairo 175 delicate i
Page 239 and 240: The Mosques of Cairo i77 arabesqued
Page 241 and 242: The Mosques of Cairo i79 open air i
Page 243 and 244: The Mosques of Cairo i8i outlined w
Page 245 and 246: The Mosques of Cairo 183 for regula
Page 247 and 248: CHAPTER XVI EI'Azhar, the Universit
Page 249 and 250: EI-'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
Page 251 and 252: EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
Page 253 and 254: EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
Page 255 and 256: CHAPTER XVII Old Cairo and the Wond
Page 257 and 258: Old Cairo i95 A few enterprising fo
Page 259 and 260: Old Cairo 197 minaret is sugared ov
Page 261 and 262: Old Cairo 199 The effect of this da
Page 264 and 265: THIS PICTUKIi SHOWS THE BURKA OR FA
Page 266 and 267: 202 Oriental Cairo Behind this scre
Page 268 and 269: 204 Oriental Cairo place guide taki
Page 270 and 271: 2o6 Oriental Cairo Some of the anci
Page 272 and 273: 2o8 Oriental Cairo The massacre too
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2IO Oriental Cairo gilt foolscap pu
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212 Oriental Cairo of Jacob was of
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CHAPTER XIX Concerning the Tombs of
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2i6 Oriental Cairo Individually, in
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2i8 Oriental Cairo of the palace of
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a. a
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2 20 Oriental Cairo " Then came the
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222 Oriental Cairo of the Saint of
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224 Oriental Cairo for their beauty
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226 Oriental Cairo noticed hardly a
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22 8 Oriental Cairo large rings of
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o /. := O ::: a C a H « g
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230 Oriental Cairo added something
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232 Oriental Cairo gay festoons of
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234 Oriental Cairo cessive sheykh o
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236 Oriental Cairo cuts up the part
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THE PROCESSION OF THE HOLY CARPET,
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238 Oriental Cairo are carried in a
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240 Oriental Cairo spectacle was wo
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242 Oriental Cairo malignant e)'es
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THE CHAPTER XXII The Ashura and its
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246 Oriental Cairo ciation of forei
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248 Oriental Cairo that Ramidge had
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250 Oriental Cairo I was disappoint
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252 Oriental Cairo the supposed inc
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THE RETURN' OF THE PILGRIM FROM MEC
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2 54 Oriental Cairo front, and bras
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2^6 Oriental Cairo houses were deco
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258 Oriental Cairo to take the plun
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26o Oriental Cairo presence was det
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262 Oriental Cairo listening to tha
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AS too crowded ; CHAPTER XXIV The M
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266 Oriental Cairo pride of the Mus
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268 Oriental Cairo and furniture of
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270 Oriental Cairo In the galleries
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CHAPTER XXV The Arab Hammam—A Cla
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274 Oriental Cairo The entrance is
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276 Oriental Cairo They smiled cour
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278 Oriental Cairo To the women, of
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IF CHAPTER XXVI Roda Island and Mos
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|ii(ti ti .mil m ^0 "^^ A (.uRM.K o
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2 82 Oriental Cairo the boxes had h
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284 Oriental Cairo to overhang the
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2 86 Oriental Cairo avarice, or caj
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288 OHental Cairo another officer i
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290 Oriental Cairo antiquity, since
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CHAPTER XXVI The Old Coptic Churche
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294 Oriental Cairo When we left the
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296 Oriental Cairo through more tha
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298 Oriental Cairo polite and cordi
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300 Oriental Cairo " Who is this Ki
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ROD-EL-FARAG CHAPTER XXVIII Rod^el'
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Rod^el^Faragf and Shubra 303 ostric
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Rod'-el'Farag and Shubra 305 vitali
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On the Humours of the Desert 307 ti
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On the Humours of the Desert 309 ho
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On the Humours of the Desert 3 1 by
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P- 312] THE SPHINX BETWEEN- THE FIR
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On the Pyramids 313 Falls of Niagar
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On the Pyramids 315 left the horse
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On the Pyramids 317 Cheops to the S
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On the Pyramids 319 a sort of bear-
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On the Pyramids 321 cannot hold the
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On the Pyramids 323 being which has
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OUR CHAPTER XXXI Sleeping at the Fe
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Sleeping at the Feet of the Sphinx
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Memphis; Tombs and Pyramids of Sakk
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13* o O s a o -i B o o > 2 C 71
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33 6 Oriental Cairo Behind the Pjra
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33^ Oriental Cairo feet high. There
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340 Oriental Cairo human touches Hk
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34^ Oriental Cairo at Heliopolis ca
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344 Oriental Cairo under the soil,
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34^ Oriental Cairo I bitterly regre
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CHAPTER XXXIV Helwan, the Week-end
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3S° Oriental Cairo wealthy, and th
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25'^ Appendix I for the same price.
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APPENDIX II Cairo was the Real Scen
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35^ Appendix II note by the same pe
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' 35^ Appendix II of the East ; nat
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360 Appendix II come across one of
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362 Appendix III known saint El-Gul
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364 Appendix III And there were oth
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366 Appendix III picturesque route
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APPENDIX IV Mr. Roosevelt's Speech
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370 Appendix IV " Your men in Afric
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372 Appendix IV such success. The i
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374 Appendix IV performing the task
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37^ Appendix IV you went into Egypt
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37 8 Rulers and Monuments of Mediae
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380 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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382 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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384 Index Baths, Arab women's, 278
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386 Index Gizeh paJace, 128 Gohar,
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1 388 Index Mosque tickets, 8g Mosq
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390 Index Sharia {covtinued) El-Klu
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PRINTED BV HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY
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'iWA:;t-. ^smi'
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