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BEDAWIN AT THE OIZUH MARKET. In front is a tall Narghilch or hubble-bubble pipe. Observe the Bedawin head-dresses. [p. 21
A Drive Round Cairo 21 gallery. The old Greek Cathedral out at old Cairo, on the other hand, is magnificent, and embodies a stately Roman bastion. XVII. The Tombs of the Caliphs When you get back to your carriage, drive down to the gap in the city walls opposite the mounds called the Windmill Hills. Climb the hills—they are not high, and are full of fragments of old Arab pottery—and from the top of them you get one of the most splendid views in the world—the whole panorama of the Tombs of the Caliphs, with the Citadel towering above them, and the eastern desert rolling away to the horizon behind them. Here are dozens of mosques, some of the most romantic examples of the art of the Saracens. XVIII. More Coptic Churches and Mameluke Mansions Then return to your carriage and drive right up the street till you get to the Sharia Ben-es-Sureni, which runs parallel to the line of the old canal, now filled up and occupied by a tramway. In this street are some of the finest mameluke houses, and in one of the streets at the back of it on the side away from the canal are two extremely ancient and inter- esting Coptic churches, and a number of Levantine churches, such as the Armenian, the Syrian, and the Maronite. XIX. The Antique Mosques and Mansions of the EI-Giydchi District Drive along the continuation of this street, called the Sharia Esh-Sharawi-el-Barani, to the corner of the Sharia El- GiyQchi, and turn down that street, one of the best old streets in Cairo of the humbler sort, containing old mosques, old Arab houses, one of which, half pulled down, has glorious woodwork ; and a splendid antique Arab bath, with many chambers panelled with white marble and adorned with marble fountains. When you get to its end take the first turning to
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^4398^'
Page 6: SOME OF MR. DOUGLAS SLADEN'S BOOKS
Page 9 and 10: ORIENTAL CAIRO THE CITY OF THE ''AR
Page 11: DEDICATED, IN MEMORY OF DAYS SPENT
Page 14 and 15: VI 11 Preface wc have him in the st
Page 16 and 17: ^ CHAPTER Contents PAGE IV. THE APP
Page 18 and 19: ^" CHAPTKH Contents XXXII. MEMPHIS,
Page 20 and 21: '^^^ List of Illustrations FACING A
Page 22 and 23: xvi List of Illustrations FACING PA
Page 24 and 25: NATIVK liUa Ul Il!l. .MOKI". KIUIMC
Page 26 and 27: 2 Oriental Cairo After this I hope
Page 28 and 29: 4 Oriental Cairo that Cairo was inh
Page 30 and 31: I HE OCCITATION OF EGYPT SLEIil'INt
Page 32 and 33: 6 Oriental Cairo The minarets of El
Page 34 and 35: 8 Oriental Cairo On every side the
Page 36 and 37: CASTING iU.^ t-VE : A LITTLE COMEDY
Page 38 and 39: lo Oriental Cairo is followed by a
Page 40 and 41: 3 Q :n A Uj < -d ^ 'i < 1 S 5 _ i>
Page 42 and 43: 12 Oriental Cairo XXV. XXVI. XXVII.
Page 44 and 45: 14 Oriental Cairo drive along the f
Page 46 and 47: A GRAND JEWISH FUNERAL AT CAIRO (ll
Page 48 and 49: 1 6 Oriental Cairo V. The Sharia Mo
Page 50 and 51: 1 8 Oriental Cairo a splendid stret
Page 52 and 53: 20 Oriental Cairo XIV, The Beit-Gam
Page 56 and 57: 22 Oriental Cairo the right into th
Page 58 and 59: 24 Oriental Cairo ancient mosques w
Page 60 and 61: 26 Oriental Cairo tlic perpendicula
Page 62 and 63: 28 Oriental Cairo glare of an indes
Page 64 and 65: I A A SNAKE CHARMER. The saakeiii o
Page 66 and 67: 30 Oriental Cairo med AH on the eas
Page 68 and 69: 32 Oriental Cairo several ways is t
Page 70 and 71: 34 Oriental Cairo drive round this
Page 72 and 73: 36 Oriental Cairo LII. The Mo'allak
Page 74 and 75: 3 8 Oriental Cairo the desert is th
Page 76 and 77: A SUA fc.K-AND-l\f>I
Page 78 and 79: 40 Oriental Cairo features and expr
Page 80 and 81: 42 Oriental Cairo Phoenixes in the
Page 82 and 83: FORAGE CAMEL X'Mr Ihfj |iii tiiri--
Page 84 and 85: 44 Oriental Cairo administration of
Page 86 and 87: 4^ Oriental Cairo dile on his head
Page 88 and 89: 48 Oriental Cairo smokinc^. While I
Page 90 and 91: WOMAN CARRYING A HUGE IRON CAULDRON
Page 92 and 93: 50 Oriental Cairo with the mere acc
Page 94 and 95: 52 Oriental Cairo are also much add
Page 96 and 97: THE CHAPTER III The Humours of the
Page 98 and 99: 56 Oriental Cairo restaurateurs and
Page 100 and 101: 58 Oriental Cairo stick of Edinburg
Page 102 and 103: m^Miiiiiif tit^wa illKI I. AKAb l.K
Page 104 and 105:
6o Oriental Cairo I have often phot
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62 Oriental Cairo the man who canno
Page 108 and 109:
CHAPTER IV The Approach to the Nati
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THE CORNER OF THE ATABA-RI.-KH AUK
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66 Oriental Cairo out of doors, for
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68 Oriental Cairo cane-scllers and
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70 Oriental Cairo Soon you pass int
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CHAPTER V The Bazars of Cairo: the
Page 121 and 122:
The Bazars of Cairo 73 mediasval ma
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The Bazars of Cairo 75 he will lose
Page 125 and 126:
The Bazars of Cairo 77 Turkish town
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The Bazars of Cairo 79 who muzzle t
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The Bazars of Cairo When the typica
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The Bazars of Cairo 83 the broad Sh
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r c P8 c c v> R in C T) o B D > a 2
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THE CHAPTER VI Our Dragoman first t
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Our Dragoman 87 was very courageous
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Our Dragoman 89 the seventeenth cen
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Our Dragoman 91 street for us when
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Our Dragoman 93 ware he sold second
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How to Shop in Cairo 95 museum. The
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p. 9
Page 149 and 150:
How to Shop in Cairo 97 your ancien
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How to Shop in Cairo 99 have fine o
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How to Shop in Cairo lor London, a
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How to Shop in Cairo 103 adjured, t
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A MARRIAGE PROCESSION', WITH THE HO
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How to Shop in Cairo 105 ing shopke
Page 161 and 162:
How to Shop in Cairo 107 Except in
Page 163 and 164:
Cairo at Night 109 and their huge f
Page 165 and 166:
Cairo at Night 1 1 chairs that you
Page 167 and 168:
Cairo at Night 113 spectacle late t
Page 169 and 170:
p. ri4] AN EFFENDI HAVING HIS FORTU
Page 171 and 172:
The Entertainments of the Arabs 115
Page 173 and 174:
The Entertainments of the Arabs 117
Page 175 and 176:
The -Entertainments of the Arabs 11
Page 177 and 178:
CHAPTER X An Arab Bank Holiday: the
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^»ii!J' GREEKS DANCING I.\ THE GAR
Page 181 and 182:
An Arab Bank Holiday: the Shem-en^N
Page 183 and 184:
An Arab Bank Holiday: the Sheni'en'
Page 185 and 186:
THE CHAPTER XI The Cairo Zoo Cairo
Page 187 and 188:
The Cairo Zoo 129 be there without
Page 189 and 190:
The Cairo Zoo 131 he adopted as he
Page 191 and 192:
THE CHAPTER XII The Arab and Bedawi
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The Arab and Bedawin Markets of Cai
Page 195 and 196:
Page 197 and 198:
Page 199 and 200:
WEST CHAPTER XIII The Old Arab Stre
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 143 h
Page 203 and 204:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo HS on
Page 205 and 206:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 147 d
Page 207 and 208:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 149 o
Page 209 and 210:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 151 s
Page 211 and 212:
CHAPTER XIV The Characteristics of
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The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
Page 215 and 216:
The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
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iJIE HEART OF CAIRO. The old gate c
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I CHAPTER XV The Mosques of Cairo S
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The Mosques of Cairo i6i with mosqu
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The Mosques of Cairo 163 is to the
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The Mosques of Cairo 165 enter the
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The Mosques of Cairo 167 street. If
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The Mosques of Cairo 169 love its l
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a. 5' & > 3 5 n n -3 05 P a H o > H
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The Mosques of Cairo 171 panelling
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The Mosques of Cairo 173 Cardinal W
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The Mosques of Cairo 175 delicate i
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The Mosques of Cairo i77 arabesqued
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The Mosques of Cairo i79 open air i
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The Mosques of Cairo i8i outlined w
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The Mosques of Cairo 183 for regula
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CHAPTER XVI EI'Azhar, the Universit
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EI-'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
Page 251 and 252:
EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
Page 255 and 256:
CHAPTER XVII Old Cairo and the Wond
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Old Cairo i95 A few enterprising fo
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Old Cairo 197 minaret is sugared ov
Page 261 and 262:
Old Cairo 199 The effect of this da
Page 264 and 265:
THIS PICTUKIi SHOWS THE BURKA OR FA
Page 266 and 267:
202 Oriental Cairo Behind this scre
Page 268 and 269:
204 Oriental Cairo place guide taki
Page 270 and 271:
2o6 Oriental Cairo Some of the anci
Page 272 and 273:
2o8 Oriental Cairo The massacre too
Page 274 and 275:
2IO Oriental Cairo gilt foolscap pu
Page 276 and 277:
212 Oriental Cairo of Jacob was of
Page 278 and 279:
CHAPTER XIX Concerning the Tombs of
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2i6 Oriental Cairo Individually, in
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2i8 Oriental Cairo of the palace of
Page 284 and 285:
a. a
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2 20 Oriental Cairo " Then came the
Page 288 and 289:
222 Oriental Cairo of the Saint of
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224 Oriental Cairo for their beauty
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226 Oriental Cairo noticed hardly a
Page 294 and 295:
22 8 Oriental Cairo large rings of
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o /. := O ::: a C a H « g
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230 Oriental Cairo added something
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232 Oriental Cairo gay festoons of
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234 Oriental Cairo cessive sheykh o
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236 Oriental Cairo cuts up the part
Page 306 and 307:
THE PROCESSION OF THE HOLY CARPET,
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238 Oriental Cairo are carried in a
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240 Oriental Cairo spectacle was wo
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242 Oriental Cairo malignant e)'es
Page 314 and 315:
THE CHAPTER XXII The Ashura and its
Page 316 and 317:
246 Oriental Cairo ciation of forei
Page 318 and 319:
248 Oriental Cairo that Ramidge had
Page 320 and 321:
250 Oriental Cairo I was disappoint
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252 Oriental Cairo the supposed inc
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THE RETURN' OF THE PILGRIM FROM MEC
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2 54 Oriental Cairo front, and bras
Page 328 and 329:
2^6 Oriental Cairo houses were deco
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258 Oriental Cairo to take the plun
Page 332 and 333:
26o Oriental Cairo presence was det
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262 Oriental Cairo listening to tha
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AS too crowded ; CHAPTER XXIV The M
Page 338 and 339:
266 Oriental Cairo pride of the Mus
Page 340 and 341:
268 Oriental Cairo and furniture of
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270 Oriental Cairo In the galleries
Page 344 and 345:
CHAPTER XXV The Arab Hammam—A Cla
Page 346 and 347:
274 Oriental Cairo The entrance is
Page 348 and 349:
276 Oriental Cairo They smiled cour
Page 350 and 351:
278 Oriental Cairo To the women, of
Page 352 and 353:
IF CHAPTER XXVI Roda Island and Mos
Page 354 and 355:
|ii(ti ti .mil m ^0 "^^ A (.uRM.K o
Page 356 and 357:
2 82 Oriental Cairo the boxes had h
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284 Oriental Cairo to overhang the
Page 360 and 361:
2 86 Oriental Cairo avarice, or caj
Page 362 and 363:
288 OHental Cairo another officer i
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290 Oriental Cairo antiquity, since
Page 366 and 367:
CHAPTER XXVI The Old Coptic Churche
Page 368 and 369:
294 Oriental Cairo When we left the
Page 370 and 371:
296 Oriental Cairo through more tha
Page 372 and 373:
298 Oriental Cairo polite and cordi
Page 374 and 375:
300 Oriental Cairo " Who is this Ki
Page 376:
ROD-EL-FARAG CHAPTER XXVIII Rod^el'
Page 379 and 380:
Rod^el^Faragf and Shubra 303 ostric
Page 381 and 382:
Rod'-el'Farag and Shubra 305 vitali
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On the Humours of the Desert 307 ti
Page 385 and 386:
On the Humours of the Desert 309 ho
Page 387 and 388:
On the Humours of the Desert 3 1 by
Page 389 and 390:
P- 312] THE SPHINX BETWEEN- THE FIR
Page 391 and 392:
On the Pyramids 313 Falls of Niagar
Page 393 and 394:
On the Pyramids 315 left the horse
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On the Pyramids 317 Cheops to the S
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On the Pyramids 319 a sort of bear-
Page 399 and 400:
On the Pyramids 321 cannot hold the
Page 401 and 402:
On the Pyramids 323 being which has
Page 403 and 404:
OUR CHAPTER XXXI Sleeping at the Fe
Page 405 and 406:
Sleeping at the Feet of the Sphinx
Page 407 and 408:
Page 409 and 410:
Page 411 and 412:
Memphis; Tombs and Pyramids of Sakk
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13* o O s a o -i B o o > 2 C 71
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33 6 Oriental Cairo Behind the Pjra
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33^ Oriental Cairo feet high. There
Page 420 and 421:
340 Oriental Cairo human touches Hk
Page 422 and 423:
34^ Oriental Cairo at Heliopolis ca
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344 Oriental Cairo under the soil,
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34^ Oriental Cairo I bitterly regre
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CHAPTER XXXIV Helwan, the Week-end
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3S° Oriental Cairo wealthy, and th
Page 432 and 433:
25'^ Appendix I for the same price.
Page 434 and 435:
APPENDIX II Cairo was the Real Scen
Page 436 and 437:
35^ Appendix II note by the same pe
Page 438 and 439:
' 35^ Appendix II of the East ; nat
Page 440 and 441:
360 Appendix II come across one of
Page 442 and 443:
362 Appendix III known saint El-Gul
Page 444 and 445:
364 Appendix III And there were oth
Page 446 and 447:
366 Appendix III picturesque route
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APPENDIX IV Mr. Roosevelt's Speech
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370 Appendix IV " Your men in Afric
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372 Appendix IV such success. The i
Page 454 and 455:
374 Appendix IV performing the task
Page 456 and 457:
37^ Appendix IV you went into Egypt
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37 8 Rulers and Monuments of Mediae
Page 460 and 461:
380 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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382 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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384 Index Baths, Arab women's, 278
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386 Index Gizeh paJace, 128 Gohar,
Page 468 and 469:
1 388 Index Mosque tickets, 8g Mosq
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390 Index Sharia {covtinued) El-Klu
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PRINTED BV HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY
Page 476:
'iWA:;t-. ^smi'
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