orientalcairocit00sladuoft

Recommendations

Info

9 8 Oriental Cairo buying Oriental trophies for his home, because Cohen has fixed prices and believes in the motto of a famous London caterer, "Give your customer good value and he'll come again." Andalaft has a smaller shop than Cohen, He has only a small stock of tourists' brass and embroideries : he affects enamels, and earthenware, old illuminated Korans, mediaeval armour, and beautiful jewellery, chiefly Persian, which last is not very expensive as such things go. Mr. Andalaft is a man of remarkably good taste, indeed fine taste is the character- istic of his shop. The old Persian arm amulets which he has collected— flat, heart-shaped gold and silver boxes set with large turquoises for containing a verse of the Koran, make delightful ornaments. These and other jewels fill the locked cases in the front part of his shop. But it is when he takes you to the back, and commences fingering lovingly old Persian lustre-ware that you see how different he is from the other traders in the noisy Khan-el-Khalil. For he is an enthusiast, and while he shows you his old illuminated Korans, he stops to point out and translate the passages which were borrowed from a Christian saint. You ask if a suit of antique armour is Crusader's armour that has been hoarded in the Sudan. " Alas, no," he says, and tells you the points to look out for in armour that has been in Egypt since St. Louis and all his chivâlry surrendered to the Saracens, where the great city of Mansura stands to-day. But his heart is chiefly with the old enamels and lustre of Persia ; and his old Persian pictures, and his Persian boxes — painted with the portraits of famous beauties of Ispahan and Shiraz, which glow like the lustres and enamel—and his jade. Mr. Andalaft always strikes one as the artist rather than the trader ; and he speaks such good English that he is a valuable aid to a collector. When you have bought all you care about in his own stock, it is worth while asking him to step across to Irani's with you. Irani is a good man, but he speaks no English, and if left to himself opens his mouth very wide to foreigners. There are plenty of shops in the Khan-el-Khalil which
How to Shop in Cairo 99 have fine or charming pieces, suited to pockets of varying depths, especially in the direction of old brass-ware, embroideries and lace, enamels and pottery. The trouble is that without interminable bargaining you will be outrageously swindled. Few of these traders have fixed prices like Andalaft and Cohen, and nearly all of them fix their prices, not according to the value of the article, but according to the value of the purchaser. They gauge how rich or otherwise he is, how shrewd or foolish, how eager or unwilling, and the price moves accordingly. With most of them you have the feeling all the time that you are dealing with a dirty, chuckling Oriental spider. When you come upon genuine Persians they are not so bad. They are dignified, and often, like the Turk, have fixed prices ; but they have one price fixed for the tourist and another for the native, so if you are wise you do not buy from them at all, since they are certain to be asking you far above the value of the article, and will not budge from their price. Amber is the speciality of the Turks ; lacquered boxes and turquoises are the specialities of the Persians. You often see fine pieces of amber among the beads and pipe-mouth- pieces : but they are not comparable in beauty with the old amber, which has gone opaque and golden, or clear and sherry-coloured, to be found in the necklaces of odd beads, Sudan. which descend from generation to generation in the The number of Persians in the bazars seemed to me really extraordinary. Mr. Andalaft told me that it was not hard to explain. " Persia," he said, " is a very difficult country to get to for tourists, so the Persians have to look about for a market outside of their own country, where the duties are low, and there is a good Government like the English, that does not allow people to have their money taken away from them, and where many tourists come. market of Persia." Egypt is the tourist's Here was another Occupation. testimony to the value of the British One of the great bargainings in the bazars at Cairo is
Page 1:
^4398^'
Page 6:
SOME OF MR. DOUGLAS SLADEN'S BOOKS
Page 9 and 10:
ORIENTAL CAIRO THE CITY OF THE ''AR
Page 11:
DEDICATED, IN MEMORY OF DAYS SPENT
Page 14 and 15:
VI 11 Preface wc have him in the st
Page 16 and 17:
^ CHAPTER Contents PAGE IV. THE APP
Page 18 and 19:
^" CHAPTKH Contents XXXII. MEMPHIS,
Page 20 and 21:
'^^^ List of Illustrations FACING A
Page 22 and 23:
xvi List of Illustrations FACING PA
Page 24 and 25:
NATIVK liUa Ul Il!l. .MOKI". KIUIMC
Page 26 and 27:
2 Oriental Cairo After this I hope
Page 28 and 29:
4 Oriental Cairo that Cairo was inh
Page 30 and 31:
I HE OCCITATION OF EGYPT SLEIil'INt
Page 32 and 33:
6 Oriental Cairo The minarets of El
Page 34 and 35:
8 Oriental Cairo On every side the
Page 36 and 37:
CASTING iU.^ t-VE : A LITTLE COMEDY
Page 38 and 39:
lo Oriental Cairo is followed by a
Page 40 and 41:
3 Q :n A Uj < -d ^ 'i < 1 S 5 _ i>
Page 42 and 43:
12 Oriental Cairo XXV. XXVI. XXVII.
Page 44 and 45:
14 Oriental Cairo drive along the f
Page 46 and 47:
A GRAND JEWISH FUNERAL AT CAIRO (ll
Page 48 and 49:
1 6 Oriental Cairo V. The Sharia Mo
Page 50 and 51:
1 8 Oriental Cairo a splendid stret
Page 52 and 53:
20 Oriental Cairo XIV, The Beit-Gam
Page 54 and 55:
BEDAWIN AT THE OIZUH MARKET. In fro
Page 56 and 57:
22 Oriental Cairo the right into th
Page 58 and 59:
24 Oriental Cairo ancient mosques w
Page 60 and 61:
26 Oriental Cairo tlic perpendicula
Page 62 and 63:
28 Oriental Cairo glare of an indes
Page 64 and 65:
I A A SNAKE CHARMER. The saakeiii o
Page 66 and 67:
30 Oriental Cairo med AH on the eas
Page 68 and 69:
32 Oriental Cairo several ways is t
Page 70 and 71:
34 Oriental Cairo drive round this
Page 72 and 73:
36 Oriental Cairo LII. The Mo'allak
Page 74 and 75:
3 8 Oriental Cairo the desert is th
Page 76 and 77:
A SUA fc.K-AND-l\f>I
Page 78 and 79:
40 Oriental Cairo features and expr
Page 80 and 81:
42 Oriental Cairo Phoenixes in the
Page 82 and 83:
FORAGE CAMEL X'Mr Ihfj |iii tiiri--
Page 84 and 85:
44 Oriental Cairo administration of
Page 86 and 87:
4^ Oriental Cairo dile on his head
Page 88 and 89:
48 Oriental Cairo smokinc^. While I
Page 90 and 91:
WOMAN CARRYING A HUGE IRON CAULDRON
Page 92 and 93:
50 Oriental Cairo with the mere acc
Page 94 and 95:
52 Oriental Cairo are also much add
Page 96 and 97:
THE CHAPTER III The Humours of the
Page 98 and 99:
56 Oriental Cairo restaurateurs and
Page 100 and 101: 58 Oriental Cairo stick of Edinburg
Page 102 and 103: m^Miiiiiif tit^wa illKI I. AKAb l.K
Page 104 and 105: 6o Oriental Cairo I have often phot
Page 106 and 107: 62 Oriental Cairo the man who canno
Page 108 and 109: CHAPTER IV The Approach to the Nati
Page 110 and 111: THE CORNER OF THE ATABA-RI.-KH AUK
Page 112 and 113: 66 Oriental Cairo out of doors, for
Page 114 and 115: 68 Oriental Cairo cane-scllers and
Page 116 and 117: 70 Oriental Cairo Soon you pass int
Page 118: CHAPTER V The Bazars of Cairo: the
Page 121 and 122: The Bazars of Cairo 73 mediasval ma
Page 123 and 124: The Bazars of Cairo 75 he will lose
Page 125 and 126: The Bazars of Cairo 77 Turkish town
Page 127 and 128: The Bazars of Cairo 79 who muzzle t
Page 129 and 130: The Bazars of Cairo When the typica
Page 131 and 132: The Bazars of Cairo 83 the broad Sh
Page 133 and 134: r c P8 c c v> R in C T) o B D > a 2
Page 135 and 136: THE CHAPTER VI Our Dragoman first t
Page 137 and 138: Our Dragoman 87 was very courageous
Page 139 and 140: Our Dragoman 89 the seventeenth cen
Page 141 and 142: Our Dragoman 91 street for us when
Page 143 and 144: Our Dragoman 93 ware he sold second
Page 145 and 146: How to Shop in Cairo 95 museum. The
Page 147 and 148: p. 9
Page 149: How to Shop in Cairo 97 your ancien
Page 153 and 154: How to Shop in Cairo lor London, a
Page 155 and 156: How to Shop in Cairo 103 adjured, t
Page 157 and 158: A MARRIAGE PROCESSION', WITH THE HO
Page 159 and 160: How to Shop in Cairo 105 ing shopke
Page 161 and 162: How to Shop in Cairo 107 Except in
Page 163 and 164: Cairo at Night 109 and their huge f
Page 165 and 166: Cairo at Night 1 1 chairs that you
Page 167 and 168: Cairo at Night 113 spectacle late t
Page 169 and 170: p. ri4] AN EFFENDI HAVING HIS FORTU
Page 171 and 172: The Entertainments of the Arabs 115
Page 173 and 174: The Entertainments of the Arabs 117
Page 175 and 176: The -Entertainments of the Arabs 11
Page 177 and 178: CHAPTER X An Arab Bank Holiday: the
Page 179 and 180: ^»ii!J' GREEKS DANCING I.\ THE GAR
Page 181 and 182: An Arab Bank Holiday: the Shem-en^N
Page 183 and 184: An Arab Bank Holiday: the Sheni'en'
Page 185 and 186: THE CHAPTER XI The Cairo Zoo Cairo
Page 187 and 188: The Cairo Zoo 129 be there without
Page 189 and 190: The Cairo Zoo 131 he adopted as he
Page 191 and 192: THE CHAPTER XII The Arab and Bedawi
Page 193 and 194: The Arab and Bedawin Markets of Cai
Page 199 and 200: WEST CHAPTER XIII The Old Arab Stre
Page 201 and 202:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 143 h
Page 203 and 204:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo HS on
Page 205 and 206:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 147 d
Page 207 and 208:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 149 o
Page 209 and 210:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 151 s
Page 211 and 212:
CHAPTER XIV The Characteristics of
Page 213 and 214:
The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
Page 215 and 216:
The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
Page 217 and 218:
iJIE HEART OF CAIRO. The old gate c
Page 219 and 220:
I CHAPTER XV The Mosques of Cairo S
Page 221 and 222:
The Mosques of Cairo i6i with mosqu
Page 223 and 224:
The Mosques of Cairo 163 is to the
Page 225 and 226:
The Mosques of Cairo 165 enter the
Page 227 and 228:
The Mosques of Cairo 167 street. If
Page 229 and 230:
The Mosques of Cairo 169 love its l
Page 231 and 232:
a. 5' & > 3 5 n n -3 05 P a H o > H
Page 233 and 234:
The Mosques of Cairo 171 panelling
Page 235 and 236:
The Mosques of Cairo 173 Cardinal W
Page 237 and 238:
The Mosques of Cairo 175 delicate i
Page 239 and 240:
The Mosques of Cairo i77 arabesqued
Page 241 and 242:
The Mosques of Cairo i79 open air i
Page 243 and 244:
The Mosques of Cairo i8i outlined w
Page 245 and 246:
The Mosques of Cairo 183 for regula
Page 247 and 248:
CHAPTER XVI EI'Azhar, the Universit
Page 249 and 250:
EI-'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
Page 251 and 252:
EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
Page 253 and 254:
EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
Page 255 and 256:
CHAPTER XVII Old Cairo and the Wond
Page 257 and 258:
Old Cairo i95 A few enterprising fo
Page 259 and 260:
Old Cairo 197 minaret is sugared ov
Page 261 and 262:
Old Cairo 199 The effect of this da
Page 264 and 265:
THIS PICTUKIi SHOWS THE BURKA OR FA
Page 266 and 267:
202 Oriental Cairo Behind this scre
Page 268 and 269:
204 Oriental Cairo place guide taki
Page 270 and 271:
2o6 Oriental Cairo Some of the anci
Page 272 and 273:
2o8 Oriental Cairo The massacre too
Page 274 and 275:
2IO Oriental Cairo gilt foolscap pu
Page 276 and 277:
212 Oriental Cairo of Jacob was of
Page 278 and 279:
CHAPTER XIX Concerning the Tombs of
Page 280 and 281:
2i6 Oriental Cairo Individually, in
Page 282 and 283:
2i8 Oriental Cairo of the palace of
Page 284 and 285:
a. a
Page 286 and 287:
2 20 Oriental Cairo " Then came the
Page 288 and 289:
222 Oriental Cairo of the Saint of
Page 290 and 291:
224 Oriental Cairo for their beauty
Page 292 and 293:
226 Oriental Cairo noticed hardly a
Page 294 and 295:
22 8 Oriental Cairo large rings of
Page 296 and 297:
o /. := O ::: a C a H « g
Page 298 and 299:
230 Oriental Cairo added something
Page 300 and 301:
232 Oriental Cairo gay festoons of
Page 302 and 303:
234 Oriental Cairo cessive sheykh o
Page 304 and 305:
236 Oriental Cairo cuts up the part
Page 306 and 307:
THE PROCESSION OF THE HOLY CARPET,
Page 308 and 309:
238 Oriental Cairo are carried in a
Page 310 and 311:
240 Oriental Cairo spectacle was wo
Page 312 and 313:
242 Oriental Cairo malignant e)'es
Page 314 and 315:
THE CHAPTER XXII The Ashura and its
Page 316 and 317:
246 Oriental Cairo ciation of forei
Page 318 and 319:
248 Oriental Cairo that Ramidge had
Page 320 and 321:
250 Oriental Cairo I was disappoint
Page 322 and 323:
252 Oriental Cairo the supposed inc
Page 324 and 325:
THE RETURN' OF THE PILGRIM FROM MEC
Page 326 and 327:
2 54 Oriental Cairo front, and bras
Page 328 and 329:
2^6 Oriental Cairo houses were deco
Page 330 and 331:
258 Oriental Cairo to take the plun
Page 332 and 333:
26o Oriental Cairo presence was det
Page 334 and 335:
262 Oriental Cairo listening to tha
Page 336 and 337:
AS too crowded ; CHAPTER XXIV The M
Page 338 and 339:
266 Oriental Cairo pride of the Mus
Page 340 and 341:
268 Oriental Cairo and furniture of
Page 342 and 343:
270 Oriental Cairo In the galleries
Page 344 and 345:
CHAPTER XXV The Arab Hammam—A Cla
Page 346 and 347:
274 Oriental Cairo The entrance is
Page 348 and 349:
276 Oriental Cairo They smiled cour
Page 350 and 351:
278 Oriental Cairo To the women, of
Page 352 and 353:
IF CHAPTER XXVI Roda Island and Mos
Page 354 and 355:
|ii(ti ti .mil m ^0 "^^ A (.uRM.K o
Page 356 and 357:
2 82 Oriental Cairo the boxes had h
Page 358 and 359:
284 Oriental Cairo to overhang the
Page 360 and 361:
2 86 Oriental Cairo avarice, or caj
Page 362 and 363:
288 OHental Cairo another officer i
Page 364 and 365:
290 Oriental Cairo antiquity, since
Page 366 and 367:
CHAPTER XXVI The Old Coptic Churche
Page 368 and 369:
294 Oriental Cairo When we left the
Page 370 and 371:
296 Oriental Cairo through more tha
Page 372 and 373:
298 Oriental Cairo polite and cordi
Page 374 and 375:
300 Oriental Cairo " Who is this Ki
Page 376:
ROD-EL-FARAG CHAPTER XXVIII Rodêl'
Page 379 and 380:
Rodêl^Faragf and Shubra 303 ostric
Page 381 and 382:
Rod'-el'Farag and Shubra 305 vitali
Page 383 and 384:
On the Humours of the Desert 307 ti
Page 385 and 386:
On the Humours of the Desert 309 ho
Page 387 and 388:
On the Humours of the Desert 3 1 by
Page 389 and 390:
P- 312] THE SPHINX BETWEEN- THE FIR
Page 391 and 392:
On the Pyramids 313 Falls of Niagar
Page 393 and 394:
On the Pyramids 315 left the horse
Page 395 and 396:
On the Pyramids 317 Cheops to the S
Page 397 and 398:
On the Pyramids 319 a sort of bear-
Page 399 and 400:
On the Pyramids 321 cannot hold the
Page 401 and 402:
On the Pyramids 323 being which has
Page 403 and 404:
OUR CHAPTER XXXI Sleeping at the Fe
Page 405 and 406:
Sleeping at the Feet of the Sphinx
Page 407 and 408:
Page 409 and 410:
Page 411 and 412:
Memphis; Tombs and Pyramids of Sakk
Page 413:
13* o O s a o -i B o o > 2 C 71
Page 416 and 417:
33 6 Oriental Cairo Behind the Pjra
Page 418 and 419:
33^ Oriental Cairo feet high. There
Page 420 and 421:
340 Oriental Cairo human touches Hk
Page 422 and 423:
34^ Oriental Cairo at Heliopolis ca
Page 424 and 425:
344 Oriental Cairo under the soil,
Page 426 and 427:
34^ Oriental Cairo I bitterly regre
Page 428 and 429:
CHAPTER XXXIV Helwan, the Week-end
Page 430 and 431:
3S° Oriental Cairo wealthy, and th
Page 432 and 433:
25'^ Appendix I for the same price.
Page 434 and 435:
APPENDIX II Cairo was the Real Scen
Page 436 and 437:
35^ Appendix II note by the same pe
Page 438 and 439:
' 35^ Appendix II of the East ; nat
Page 440 and 441:
360 Appendix II come across one of
Page 442 and 443:
362 Appendix III known saint El-Gul
Page 444 and 445:
364 Appendix III And there were oth
Page 446 and 447:
366 Appendix III picturesque route
Page 448 and 449:
APPENDIX IV Mr. Roosevelt's Speech
Page 450 and 451:
370 Appendix IV " Your men in Afric
Page 452 and 453:
372 Appendix IV such success. The i
Page 454 and 455:
374 Appendix IV performing the task
Page 456 and 457:
37^ Appendix IV you went into Egypt
Page 458 and 459:
37 8 Rulers and Monuments of Mediae
Page 460 and 461:
380 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
Page 462 and 463:
382 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
Page 464 and 465:
384 Index Baths, Arab women's, 278
Page 466 and 467:
386 Index Gizeh paJace, 128 Gohar,
Page 468 and 469:
1 388 Index Mosque tickets, 8g Mosq
Page 470 and 471:
390 Index Sharia {covtinued) El-Klu
Page 472:
PRINTED BV HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY
Page 476:
'iWA:;t-. ^smi'
show all

orientalcairocit00sladuoft

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?