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^' II AKAI'. SANOIUOID. Kflciuli? sitting down in llic middU cf llu riind to read a Ictlcr. In llic background on llic right i^ .1 luiiiian nial-shop. ' [p. 115
The Entertainments of the Arabs 115 performers are European, though the datise a ventre is generally part of their programme. As far as can be seen by the naked eye, the Arab does not share the Jap's enthusiasm for the drama, though every Arab was born an actor. There is ostensibly but one Arab theatre in Cairo. Here they incline to a kind of operatic melodrama, on the lines of our comic opera without the fun or the scenery or the eirls, but a similar mixture of music and dialogue. I went there once with a Syrian friend and a rich young Egyptian, a man-about-town, who was very musical. The theatre was not much more substantial or costly in its fittings than a Japanese theatre, which is little more than a shed in the shape of a circus-tent, with matchwood partitions between its bo.xes. Half the boxes here had harem-grills like Sicilian nuns' churches. There were hardly any women visible ; only tarbtishes in front and turbans behind. They were playing dear mad Oriental music when we went in. The Syrian was apologetic. He said, " These people have no music : it is all half tones." The Egyptian took up the cud- gels. "What is music to you is not musical at all to them. If an Arab goes to the Opera he asks, ' What are they shrieking at ? ' " The Syrian retorted with a story about the Arab who went to the Opera at Paris, and did not care for any of the music except the tuning up of the orchestra. But they were the best of friends. The play began half an hour late. The audience had spent that half-hour in clap- ping for it. Its title pleased me very much. It was called The Pardon that Killed. When the play opened five men in the Arab costume (of Arabia) were sitting on each side of the stage, with a black in a red dress, and another Arab always putting his head out of the door looking for something that was supposed to be going on behind the stage. They were sitting quite naturally. The King reclined on a sofa with a sham leopard's skin ; the others were sitting up. There was an old man, with a long white beard, to show that he was the funny man ; his sallies were much appreciated—everybody always clapped before they heard what he had to say. Then there was a
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SOME OF MR. DOUGLAS SLADEN'S BOOKS
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ORIENTAL CAIRO THE CITY OF THE ''AR
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DEDICATED, IN MEMORY OF DAYS SPENT
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VI 11 Preface wc have him in the st
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^ CHAPTER Contents PAGE IV. THE APP
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^" CHAPTKH Contents XXXII. MEMPHIS,
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'^^^ List of Illustrations FACING A
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xvi List of Illustrations FACING PA
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NATIVK liUa Ul Il!l. .MOKI". KIUIMC
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2 Oriental Cairo After this I hope
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4 Oriental Cairo that Cairo was inh
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I HE OCCITATION OF EGYPT SLEIil'INt
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6 Oriental Cairo The minarets of El
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8 Oriental Cairo On every side the
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CASTING iU.^ t-VE : A LITTLE COMEDY
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lo Oriental Cairo is followed by a
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3 Q :n A Uj < -d ^ 'i < 1 S 5 _ i>
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12 Oriental Cairo XXV. XXVI. XXVII.
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14 Oriental Cairo drive along the f
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A GRAND JEWISH FUNERAL AT CAIRO (ll
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1 6 Oriental Cairo V. The Sharia Mo
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1 8 Oriental Cairo a splendid stret
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20 Oriental Cairo XIV, The Beit-Gam
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BEDAWIN AT THE OIZUH MARKET. In fro
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22 Oriental Cairo the right into th
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24 Oriental Cairo ancient mosques w
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26 Oriental Cairo tlic perpendicula
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28 Oriental Cairo glare of an indes
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I A A SNAKE CHARMER. The saakeiii o
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30 Oriental Cairo med AH on the eas
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32 Oriental Cairo several ways is t
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34 Oriental Cairo drive round this
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36 Oriental Cairo LII. The Mo'allak
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3 8 Oriental Cairo the desert is th
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A SUA fc.K-AND-l\f>I
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40 Oriental Cairo features and expr
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42 Oriental Cairo Phoenixes in the
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FORAGE CAMEL X'Mr Ihfj |iii tiiri--
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44 Oriental Cairo administration of
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4^ Oriental Cairo dile on his head
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48 Oriental Cairo smokinc^. While I
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WOMAN CARRYING A HUGE IRON CAULDRON
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50 Oriental Cairo with the mere acc
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52 Oriental Cairo are also much add
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THE CHAPTER III The Humours of the
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56 Oriental Cairo restaurateurs and
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58 Oriental Cairo stick of Edinburg
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m^Miiiiiif tit^wa illKI I. AKAb l.K
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6o Oriental Cairo I have often phot
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62 Oriental Cairo the man who canno
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CHAPTER IV The Approach to the Nati
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THE CORNER OF THE ATABA-RI.-KH AUK
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66 Oriental Cairo out of doors, for
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68 Oriental Cairo cane-scllers and
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70 Oriental Cairo Soon you pass int
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CHAPTER V The Bazars of Cairo: the
Page 121 and 122: The Bazars of Cairo 73 mediasval ma
Page 123 and 124: The Bazars of Cairo 75 he will lose
Page 125 and 126: The Bazars of Cairo 77 Turkish town
Page 127 and 128: The Bazars of Cairo 79 who muzzle t
Page 129 and 130: The Bazars of Cairo When the typica
Page 131 and 132: The Bazars of Cairo 83 the broad Sh
Page 133 and 134: r c P8 c c v> R in C T) o B D > a 2
Page 135 and 136: THE CHAPTER VI Our Dragoman first t
Page 137 and 138: Our Dragoman 87 was very courageous
Page 139 and 140: Our Dragoman 89 the seventeenth cen
Page 141 and 142: Our Dragoman 91 street for us when
Page 143 and 144: Our Dragoman 93 ware he sold second
Page 145 and 146: How to Shop in Cairo 95 museum. The
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Page 149 and 150: How to Shop in Cairo 97 your ancien
Page 151 and 152: How to Shop in Cairo 99 have fine o
Page 153 and 154: How to Shop in Cairo lor London, a
Page 155 and 156: How to Shop in Cairo 103 adjured, t
Page 157 and 158: A MARRIAGE PROCESSION', WITH THE HO
Page 159 and 160: How to Shop in Cairo 105 ing shopke
Page 161 and 162: How to Shop in Cairo 107 Except in
Page 163 and 164: Cairo at Night 109 and their huge f
Page 165 and 166: Cairo at Night 1 1 chairs that you
Page 167 and 168: Cairo at Night 113 spectacle late t
Page 169: p. ri4] AN EFFENDI HAVING HIS FORTU
Page 173 and 174: The Entertainments of the Arabs 117
Page 175 and 176: The -Entertainments of the Arabs 11
Page 177 and 178: CHAPTER X An Arab Bank Holiday: the
Page 179 and 180: ^»ii!J' GREEKS DANCING I.\ THE GAR
Page 181 and 182: An Arab Bank Holiday: the Shem-en^N
Page 183 and 184: An Arab Bank Holiday: the Sheni'en'
Page 185 and 186: THE CHAPTER XI The Cairo Zoo Cairo
Page 187 and 188: The Cairo Zoo 129 be there without
Page 189 and 190: The Cairo Zoo 131 he adopted as he
Page 191 and 192: THE CHAPTER XII The Arab and Bedawi
Page 193 and 194: The Arab and Bedawin Markets of Cai
Page 199 and 200: WEST CHAPTER XIII The Old Arab Stre
Page 201 and 202: The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 143 h
Page 203 and 204: The Old Arab Streets of Cairo HS on
Page 205 and 206: The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 147 d
Page 207 and 208: The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 149 o
Page 209 and 210: The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 151 s
Page 211 and 212: CHAPTER XIV The Characteristics of
Page 213 and 214: The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
Page 215 and 216: The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
Page 217 and 218: iJIE HEART OF CAIRO. The old gate c
Page 219 and 220: I CHAPTER XV The Mosques of Cairo S
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The Mosques of Cairo i6i with mosqu
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The Mosques of Cairo 163 is to the
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The Mosques of Cairo 165 enter the
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The Mosques of Cairo 167 street. If
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The Mosques of Cairo 169 love its l
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a. 5' & > 3 5 n n -3 05 P a H o > H
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The Mosques of Cairo 171 panelling
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The Mosques of Cairo 173 Cardinal W
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The Mosques of Cairo 175 delicate i
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The Mosques of Cairo i77 arabesqued
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The Mosques of Cairo i79 open air i
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The Mosques of Cairo i8i outlined w
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The Mosques of Cairo 183 for regula
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CHAPTER XVI EI'Azhar, the Universit
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EI-'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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CHAPTER XVII Old Cairo and the Wond
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Old Cairo i95 A few enterprising fo
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Old Cairo 197 minaret is sugared ov
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Old Cairo 199 The effect of this da
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THIS PICTUKIi SHOWS THE BURKA OR FA
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202 Oriental Cairo Behind this scre
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204 Oriental Cairo place guide taki
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2o6 Oriental Cairo Some of the anci
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2o8 Oriental Cairo The massacre too
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2IO Oriental Cairo gilt foolscap pu
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212 Oriental Cairo of Jacob was of
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CHAPTER XIX Concerning the Tombs of
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2i6 Oriental Cairo Individually, in
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2i8 Oriental Cairo of the palace of
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a. a
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2 20 Oriental Cairo " Then came the
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222 Oriental Cairo of the Saint of
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224 Oriental Cairo for their beauty
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226 Oriental Cairo noticed hardly a
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22 8 Oriental Cairo large rings of
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o /. := O ::: a C a H « g
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230 Oriental Cairo added something
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232 Oriental Cairo gay festoons of
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234 Oriental Cairo cessive sheykh o
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236 Oriental Cairo cuts up the part
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THE PROCESSION OF THE HOLY CARPET,
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238 Oriental Cairo are carried in a
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240 Oriental Cairo spectacle was wo
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242 Oriental Cairo malignant e)'es
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THE CHAPTER XXII The Ashura and its
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246 Oriental Cairo ciation of forei
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248 Oriental Cairo that Ramidge had
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250 Oriental Cairo I was disappoint
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252 Oriental Cairo the supposed inc
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THE RETURN' OF THE PILGRIM FROM MEC
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2 54 Oriental Cairo front, and bras
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2^6 Oriental Cairo houses were deco
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258 Oriental Cairo to take the plun
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26o Oriental Cairo presence was det
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262 Oriental Cairo listening to tha
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AS too crowded ; CHAPTER XXIV The M
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266 Oriental Cairo pride of the Mus
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268 Oriental Cairo and furniture of
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270 Oriental Cairo In the galleries
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CHAPTER XXV The Arab Hammam—A Cla
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274 Oriental Cairo The entrance is
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276 Oriental Cairo They smiled cour
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278 Oriental Cairo To the women, of
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IF CHAPTER XXVI Roda Island and Mos
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|ii(ti ti .mil m ^0 "^^ A (.uRM.K o
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2 82 Oriental Cairo the boxes had h
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284 Oriental Cairo to overhang the
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2 86 Oriental Cairo avarice, or caj
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288 OHental Cairo another officer i
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290 Oriental Cairo antiquity, since
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CHAPTER XXVI The Old Coptic Churche
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294 Oriental Cairo When we left the
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296 Oriental Cairo through more tha
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298 Oriental Cairo polite and cordi
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300 Oriental Cairo " Who is this Ki
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ROD-EL-FARAG CHAPTER XXVIII Rod^el'
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Rod^el^Faragf and Shubra 303 ostric
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Rod'-el'Farag and Shubra 305 vitali
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On the Humours of the Desert 307 ti
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On the Humours of the Desert 309 ho
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On the Humours of the Desert 3 1 by
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P- 312] THE SPHINX BETWEEN- THE FIR
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On the Pyramids 313 Falls of Niagar
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On the Pyramids 315 left the horse
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On the Pyramids 317 Cheops to the S
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On the Pyramids 319 a sort of bear-
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On the Pyramids 321 cannot hold the
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On the Pyramids 323 being which has
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OUR CHAPTER XXXI Sleeping at the Fe
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Sleeping at the Feet of the Sphinx
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Memphis; Tombs and Pyramids of Sakk
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13* o O s a o -i B o o > 2 C 71
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33 6 Oriental Cairo Behind the Pjra
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33^ Oriental Cairo feet high. There
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340 Oriental Cairo human touches Hk
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34^ Oriental Cairo at Heliopolis ca
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344 Oriental Cairo under the soil,
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34^ Oriental Cairo I bitterly regre
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CHAPTER XXXIV Helwan, the Week-end
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3S° Oriental Cairo wealthy, and th
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25'^ Appendix I for the same price.
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APPENDIX II Cairo was the Real Scen
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35^ Appendix II note by the same pe
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' 35^ Appendix II of the East ; nat
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360 Appendix II come across one of
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362 Appendix III known saint El-Gul
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364 Appendix III And there were oth
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366 Appendix III picturesque route
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APPENDIX IV Mr. Roosevelt's Speech
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370 Appendix IV " Your men in Afric
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372 Appendix IV such success. The i
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374 Appendix IV performing the task
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37^ Appendix IV you went into Egypt
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37 8 Rulers and Monuments of Mediae
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380 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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382 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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384 Index Baths, Arab women's, 278
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386 Index Gizeh paJace, 128 Gohar,
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1 388 Index Mosque tickets, 8g Mosq
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390 Index Sharia {covtinued) El-Klu
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PRINTED BV HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY
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'iWA:;t-. ^smi'
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