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VI 11 Preface wc have him in the streets of Cairo as wc had him before in Upper Egypt. The water-carrier, the arbaghi who drives your cab, the poh'ceman, the Egyptian boy, the peep-show man, the sellers of cakes and vegetables and syrups, the boy with the monkey, the donkey-bo)', the dragoman, and many others, with just the sort of tourists looking at them who would be looking at them, and the scenery of time-worn Cairo in the background— they are all there, painted in the most life-like colours, and with a wonderful intuition, into form and expression. I have to thank Miss Margaret Thomas, the well-known writer upon Syria, for compiling the index.
CONTENTS PRELIMINARY DEDICATION TO MR. AND MRS. C. N. WILLIAMSON PREFACE LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE READER DIRECTIONS FOR A DRIVE ROUND CAIRO CHAPTER PART I The City of the ** Arabian Nights** PARE V I. THE OLD-WORLD ORIENTAL LIFE OF CAIRO 39 IL STREET LIFE IN CAIRO AS SEEN FROM THE CONTINENTAL HOTEL 45 III. THE HUMOURS OF THE ESBEKIYA 54 IX Vll xn II
Page 1: ^4398^'
Page 6: SOME OF MR. DOUGLAS SLADEN'S BOOKS
Page 9 and 10: ORIENTAL CAIRO THE CITY OF THE ''AR
Page 11: DEDICATED, IN MEMORY OF DAYS SPENT
Page 16 and 17: ^ CHAPTER Contents PAGE IV. THE APP
Page 18 and 19: ^" CHAPTKH Contents XXXII. MEMPHIS,
Page 20 and 21: '^^^ List of Illustrations FACING A
Page 22 and 23: xvi List of Illustrations FACING PA
Page 24 and 25: NATIVK liUa Ul Il!l. .MOKI". KIUIMC
Page 26 and 27: 2 Oriental Cairo After this I hope
Page 28 and 29: 4 Oriental Cairo that Cairo was inh
Page 30 and 31: I HE OCCITATION OF EGYPT SLEIil'INt
Page 32 and 33: 6 Oriental Cairo The minarets of El
Page 34 and 35: 8 Oriental Cairo On every side the
Page 36 and 37: CASTING iU.^ t-VE : A LITTLE COMEDY
Page 38 and 39: lo Oriental Cairo is followed by a
Page 40 and 41: 3 Q :n A Uj < -d ^ 'i < 1 S 5 _ i>
Page 42 and 43: 12 Oriental Cairo XXV. XXVI. XXVII.
Page 44 and 45: 14 Oriental Cairo drive along the f
Page 46 and 47: A GRAND JEWISH FUNERAL AT CAIRO (ll
Page 48 and 49: 1 6 Oriental Cairo V. The Sharia Mo
Page 50 and 51: 1 8 Oriental Cairo a splendid stret
Page 52 and 53: 20 Oriental Cairo XIV, The Beit-Gam
Page 54 and 55: BEDAWIN AT THE OIZUH MARKET. In fro
Page 56 and 57: 22 Oriental Cairo the right into th
Page 58 and 59: 24 Oriental Cairo ancient mosques w
Page 60 and 61: 26 Oriental Cairo tlic perpendicula
Page 62 and 63: 28 Oriental Cairo glare of an indes
Page 64 and 65:
I A A SNAKE CHARMER. The saakeiii o
Page 66 and 67:
30 Oriental Cairo med AH on the eas
Page 68 and 69:
32 Oriental Cairo several ways is t
Page 70 and 71:
34 Oriental Cairo drive round this
Page 72 and 73:
36 Oriental Cairo LII. The Mo'allak
Page 74 and 75:
3 8 Oriental Cairo the desert is th
Page 76 and 77:
A SUA fc.K-AND-l\f>I
Page 78 and 79:
40 Oriental Cairo features and expr
Page 80 and 81:
42 Oriental Cairo Phoenixes in the
Page 82 and 83:
FORAGE CAMEL X'Mr Ihfj |iii tiiri--
Page 84 and 85:
44 Oriental Cairo administration of
Page 86 and 87:
4^ Oriental Cairo dile on his head
Page 88 and 89:
48 Oriental Cairo smokinc^. While I
Page 90 and 91:
WOMAN CARRYING A HUGE IRON CAULDRON
Page 92 and 93:
50 Oriental Cairo with the mere acc
Page 94 and 95:
52 Oriental Cairo are also much add
Page 96 and 97:
THE CHAPTER III The Humours of the
Page 98 and 99:
56 Oriental Cairo restaurateurs and
Page 100 and 101:
58 Oriental Cairo stick of Edinburg
Page 102 and 103:
m^Miiiiiif tit^wa illKI I. AKAb l.K
Page 104 and 105:
6o Oriental Cairo I have often phot
Page 106 and 107:
62 Oriental Cairo the man who canno
Page 108 and 109:
CHAPTER IV The Approach to the Nati
Page 110 and 111:
THE CORNER OF THE ATABA-RI.-KH AUK
Page 112 and 113:
66 Oriental Cairo out of doors, for
Page 114 and 115:
68 Oriental Cairo cane-scllers and
Page 116 and 117:
70 Oriental Cairo Soon you pass int
Page 118:
CHAPTER V The Bazars of Cairo: the
Page 121 and 122:
The Bazars of Cairo 73 mediasval ma
Page 123 and 124:
The Bazars of Cairo 75 he will lose
Page 125 and 126:
The Bazars of Cairo 77 Turkish town
Page 127 and 128:
The Bazars of Cairo 79 who muzzle t
Page 129 and 130:
The Bazars of Cairo When the typica
Page 131 and 132:
The Bazars of Cairo 83 the broad Sh
Page 133 and 134:
r c P8 c c v> R in C T) o B D > a 2
Page 135 and 136:
THE CHAPTER VI Our Dragoman first t
Page 137 and 138:
Our Dragoman 87 was very courageous
Page 139 and 140:
Our Dragoman 89 the seventeenth cen
Page 141 and 142:
Our Dragoman 91 street for us when
Page 143 and 144:
Our Dragoman 93 ware he sold second
Page 145 and 146:
How to Shop in Cairo 95 museum. The
Page 147 and 148:
p. 9
Page 149 and 150:
How to Shop in Cairo 97 your ancien
Page 151 and 152:
How to Shop in Cairo 99 have fine o
Page 153 and 154:
How to Shop in Cairo lor London, a
Page 155 and 156:
How to Shop in Cairo 103 adjured, t
Page 157 and 158:
A MARRIAGE PROCESSION', WITH THE HO
Page 159 and 160:
How to Shop in Cairo 105 ing shopke
Page 161 and 162:
How to Shop in Cairo 107 Except in
Page 163 and 164:
Cairo at Night 109 and their huge f
Page 165 and 166:
Cairo at Night 1 1 chairs that you
Page 167 and 168:
Cairo at Night 113 spectacle late t
Page 169 and 170:
p. ri4] AN EFFENDI HAVING HIS FORTU
Page 171 and 172:
The Entertainments of the Arabs 115
Page 173 and 174:
The Entertainments of the Arabs 117
Page 175 and 176:
The -Entertainments of the Arabs 11
Page 177 and 178:
CHAPTER X An Arab Bank Holiday: the
Page 179 and 180:
^»ii!J' GREEKS DANCING I.\ THE GAR
Page 181 and 182:
An Arab Bank Holiday: the Shem-en^N
Page 183 and 184:
An Arab Bank Holiday: the Sheni'en'
Page 185 and 186:
THE CHAPTER XI The Cairo Zoo Cairo
Page 187 and 188:
The Cairo Zoo 129 be there without
Page 189 and 190:
The Cairo Zoo 131 he adopted as he
Page 191 and 192:
THE CHAPTER XII The Arab and Bedawi
Page 193 and 194:
The Arab and Bedawin Markets of Cai
Page 195 and 196:
Page 197 and 198:
Page 199 and 200:
WEST CHAPTER XIII The Old Arab Stre
Page 201 and 202:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 143 h
Page 203 and 204:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo HS on
Page 205 and 206:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 147 d
Page 207 and 208:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 149 o
Page 209 and 210:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 151 s
Page 211 and 212:
CHAPTER XIV The Characteristics of
Page 213 and 214:
The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
Page 215 and 216:
The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
Page 217 and 218:
iJIE HEART OF CAIRO. The old gate c
Page 219 and 220:
I CHAPTER XV The Mosques of Cairo S
Page 221 and 222:
The Mosques of Cairo i6i with mosqu
Page 223 and 224:
The Mosques of Cairo 163 is to the
Page 225 and 226:
The Mosques of Cairo 165 enter the
Page 227 and 228:
The Mosques of Cairo 167 street. If
Page 229 and 230:
The Mosques of Cairo 169 love its l
Page 231 and 232:
a. 5' & > 3 5 n n -3 05 P a H o > H
Page 233 and 234:
The Mosques of Cairo 171 panelling
Page 235 and 236:
The Mosques of Cairo 173 Cardinal W
Page 237 and 238:
The Mosques of Cairo 175 delicate i
Page 239 and 240:
The Mosques of Cairo i77 arabesqued
Page 241 and 242:
The Mosques of Cairo i79 open air i
Page 243 and 244:
The Mosques of Cairo i8i outlined w
Page 245 and 246:
The Mosques of Cairo 183 for regula
Page 247 and 248:
CHAPTER XVI EI'Azhar, the Universit
Page 249 and 250:
EI-'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
Page 251 and 252:
EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
Page 253 and 254:
EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
Page 255 and 256:
CHAPTER XVII Old Cairo and the Wond
Page 257 and 258:
Old Cairo i95 A few enterprising fo
Page 259 and 260:
Old Cairo 197 minaret is sugared ov
Page 261 and 262:
Old Cairo 199 The effect of this da
Page 264 and 265:
THIS PICTUKIi SHOWS THE BURKA OR FA
Page 266 and 267:
202 Oriental Cairo Behind this scre
Page 268 and 269:
204 Oriental Cairo place guide taki
Page 270 and 271:
2o6 Oriental Cairo Some of the anci
Page 272 and 273:
2o8 Oriental Cairo The massacre too
Page 274 and 275:
2IO Oriental Cairo gilt foolscap pu
Page 276 and 277:
212 Oriental Cairo of Jacob was of
Page 278 and 279:
CHAPTER XIX Concerning the Tombs of
Page 280 and 281:
2i6 Oriental Cairo Individually, in
Page 282 and 283:
2i8 Oriental Cairo of the palace of
Page 284 and 285:
a. a
Page 286 and 287:
2 20 Oriental Cairo " Then came the
Page 288 and 289:
222 Oriental Cairo of the Saint of
Page 290 and 291:
224 Oriental Cairo for their beauty
Page 292 and 293:
226 Oriental Cairo noticed hardly a
Page 294 and 295:
22 8 Oriental Cairo large rings of
Page 296 and 297:
o /. := O ::: a C a H « g
Page 298 and 299:
230 Oriental Cairo added something
Page 300 and 301:
232 Oriental Cairo gay festoons of
Page 302 and 303:
234 Oriental Cairo cessive sheykh o
Page 304 and 305:
236 Oriental Cairo cuts up the part
Page 306 and 307:
THE PROCESSION OF THE HOLY CARPET,
Page 308 and 309:
238 Oriental Cairo are carried in a
Page 310 and 311:
240 Oriental Cairo spectacle was wo
Page 312 and 313:
242 Oriental Cairo malignant e)'es
Page 314 and 315:
THE CHAPTER XXII The Ashura and its
Page 316 and 317:
246 Oriental Cairo ciation of forei
Page 318 and 319:
248 Oriental Cairo that Ramidge had
Page 320 and 321:
250 Oriental Cairo I was disappoint
Page 322 and 323:
252 Oriental Cairo the supposed inc
Page 324 and 325:
THE RETURN' OF THE PILGRIM FROM MEC
Page 326 and 327:
2 54 Oriental Cairo front, and bras
Page 328 and 329:
2^6 Oriental Cairo houses were deco
Page 330 and 331:
258 Oriental Cairo to take the plun
Page 332 and 333:
26o Oriental Cairo presence was det
Page 334 and 335:
262 Oriental Cairo listening to tha
Page 336 and 337:
AS too crowded ; CHAPTER XXIV The M
Page 338 and 339:
266 Oriental Cairo pride of the Mus
Page 340 and 341:
268 Oriental Cairo and furniture of
Page 342 and 343:
270 Oriental Cairo In the galleries
Page 344 and 345:
CHAPTER XXV The Arab Hammam—A Cla
Page 346 and 347:
274 Oriental Cairo The entrance is
Page 348 and 349:
276 Oriental Cairo They smiled cour
Page 350 and 351:
278 Oriental Cairo To the women, of
Page 352 and 353:
IF CHAPTER XXVI Roda Island and Mos
Page 354 and 355:
|ii(ti ti .mil m ^0 "^^ A (.uRM.K o
Page 356 and 357:
2 82 Oriental Cairo the boxes had h
Page 358 and 359:
284 Oriental Cairo to overhang the
Page 360 and 361:
2 86 Oriental Cairo avarice, or caj
Page 362 and 363:
288 OHental Cairo another officer i
Page 364 and 365:
290 Oriental Cairo antiquity, since
Page 366 and 367:
CHAPTER XXVI The Old Coptic Churche
Page 368 and 369:
294 Oriental Cairo When we left the
Page 370 and 371:
296 Oriental Cairo through more tha
Page 372 and 373:
298 Oriental Cairo polite and cordi
Page 374 and 375:
300 Oriental Cairo " Who is this Ki
Page 376:
ROD-EL-FARAG CHAPTER XXVIII Rod^el'
Page 379 and 380:
Rod^el^Faragf and Shubra 303 ostric
Page 381 and 382:
Rod'-el'Farag and Shubra 305 vitali
Page 383 and 384:
On the Humours of the Desert 307 ti
Page 385 and 386:
On the Humours of the Desert 309 ho
Page 387 and 388:
On the Humours of the Desert 3 1 by
Page 389 and 390:
P- 312] THE SPHINX BETWEEN- THE FIR
Page 391 and 392:
On the Pyramids 313 Falls of Niagar
Page 393 and 394:
On the Pyramids 315 left the horse
Page 395 and 396:
On the Pyramids 317 Cheops to the S
Page 397 and 398:
On the Pyramids 319 a sort of bear-
Page 399 and 400:
On the Pyramids 321 cannot hold the
Page 401 and 402:
On the Pyramids 323 being which has
Page 403 and 404:
OUR CHAPTER XXXI Sleeping at the Fe
Page 405 and 406:
Sleeping at the Feet of the Sphinx
Page 407 and 408:
Page 409 and 410:
Page 411 and 412:
Memphis; Tombs and Pyramids of Sakk
Page 413:
13* o O s a o -i B o o > 2 C 71
Page 416 and 417:
33 6 Oriental Cairo Behind the Pjra
Page 418 and 419:
33^ Oriental Cairo feet high. There
Page 420 and 421:
340 Oriental Cairo human touches Hk
Page 422 and 423:
34^ Oriental Cairo at Heliopolis ca
Page 424 and 425:
344 Oriental Cairo under the soil,
Page 426 and 427:
34^ Oriental Cairo I bitterly regre
Page 428 and 429:
CHAPTER XXXIV Helwan, the Week-end
Page 430 and 431:
3S° Oriental Cairo wealthy, and th
Page 432 and 433:
25'^ Appendix I for the same price.
Page 434 and 435:
APPENDIX II Cairo was the Real Scen
Page 436 and 437:
35^ Appendix II note by the same pe
Page 438 and 439:
' 35^ Appendix II of the East ; nat
Page 440 and 441:
360 Appendix II come across one of
Page 442 and 443:
362 Appendix III known saint El-Gul
Page 444 and 445:
364 Appendix III And there were oth
Page 446 and 447:
366 Appendix III picturesque route
Page 448 and 449:
APPENDIX IV Mr. Roosevelt's Speech
Page 450 and 451:
370 Appendix IV " Your men in Afric
Page 452 and 453:
372 Appendix IV such success. The i
Page 454 and 455:
374 Appendix IV performing the task
Page 456 and 457:
37^ Appendix IV you went into Egypt
Page 458 and 459:
37 8 Rulers and Monuments of Mediae
Page 460 and 461:
380 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
Page 462 and 463:
382 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
Page 464 and 465:
384 Index Baths, Arab women's, 278
Page 466 and 467:
386 Index Gizeh paJace, 128 Gohar,
Page 468 and 469:
1 388 Index Mosque tickets, 8g Mosq
Page 470 and 471:
390 Index Sharia {covtinued) El-Klu
Page 472:
PRINTED BV HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY
Page 476:
'iWA:;t-. ^smi'
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