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250 Oriental Cairo I was disappointed with this Ashura procession ; there is no reality about it in Egypt except the flow of blood ; it is an exotic of the Persian colony. What lends such dignity to the processions of the Holy Carpet and the Molid-en- Nebbi is that they are expressions of the national religion. All the millions of Sunnite Mohammedans in Egypt breathe fervour into them. In Persia the Ashura is the most important of religious ceremonies, because the fervour in the Shiite millions of Persia is behind it. The Shahs and the Mollas have always done all they could to foster the national excitement over it to prevent Persia falling under the influence of Sunnite Constantinople.
CAIRO CHAPTER XXIII Arab Domestic Processions is full of prizes for the photographer. The Arab loves pageants, and is as fond of being the central figure in a show as Mr. Roosevelt himself. His two great opportunities for it are getting married and going on a pilgrimage to Mecca, or rather returning from one. I imagine that there must be a sort of undertaker ; perhaps there is a whole profession of them to supply the palanquins and camel- trappings and banners and bands which characterise the processions of both kinds. At any rate, the same procession did duty for a number of pilgrims, as I know from my own kodak. Sometimes the processions are much longer and more elaborate than at others, I suppose in proportion to the amount of money which the family is willing to pay the undertaker. Large or small, the processions are always gorgeous and barbaric, and their approach is always heralded by a tumtuming and cymballing of wild Oriental music. I hardly ever went out in the streets without my kodak, and if I was in the hotel when I heard those weird sounds I always flew for my kodak and flew out into the street. And it was seldom that there was not something worth photo- graphing even when one had scores of photographs of palanquins and camel bands. There is a regular pilgrim season in Cairo, just before the return of the Holy Carpet from Mecca. The private pilgrims move more quickly. Their arrival causes great excitement. In the old Arab part of Cairo making a pilgrimage to Mecca is still such an event that, when the pilgrim returns, they paint 251
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^4398^'
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SOME OF MR. DOUGLAS SLADEN'S BOOKS
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ORIENTAL CAIRO THE CITY OF THE ''AR
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DEDICATED, IN MEMORY OF DAYS SPENT
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VI 11 Preface wc have him in the st
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^ CHAPTER Contents PAGE IV. THE APP
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^" CHAPTKH Contents XXXII. MEMPHIS,
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'^^^ List of Illustrations FACING A
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xvi List of Illustrations FACING PA
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NATIVK liUa Ul Il!l. .MOKI". KIUIMC
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2 Oriental Cairo After this I hope
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4 Oriental Cairo that Cairo was inh
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I HE OCCITATION OF EGYPT SLEIil'INt
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6 Oriental Cairo The minarets of El
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8 Oriental Cairo On every side the
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CASTING iU.^ t-VE : A LITTLE COMEDY
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lo Oriental Cairo is followed by a
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3 Q :n A Uj < -d ^ 'i < 1 S 5 _ i>
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12 Oriental Cairo XXV. XXVI. XXVII.
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14 Oriental Cairo drive along the f
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A GRAND JEWISH FUNERAL AT CAIRO (ll
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1 6 Oriental Cairo V. The Sharia Mo
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1 8 Oriental Cairo a splendid stret
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20 Oriental Cairo XIV, The Beit-Gam
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BEDAWIN AT THE OIZUH MARKET. In fro
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22 Oriental Cairo the right into th
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24 Oriental Cairo ancient mosques w
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26 Oriental Cairo tlic perpendicula
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28 Oriental Cairo glare of an indes
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I A A SNAKE CHARMER. The saakeiii o
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30 Oriental Cairo med AH on the eas
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32 Oriental Cairo several ways is t
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34 Oriental Cairo drive round this
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36 Oriental Cairo LII. The Mo'allak
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3 8 Oriental Cairo the desert is th
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A SUA fc.K-AND-l\f>I
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40 Oriental Cairo features and expr
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42 Oriental Cairo Phoenixes in the
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FORAGE CAMEL X'Mr Ihfj |iii tiiri--
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44 Oriental Cairo administration of
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4^ Oriental Cairo dile on his head
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48 Oriental Cairo smokinc^. While I
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WOMAN CARRYING A HUGE IRON CAULDRON
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50 Oriental Cairo with the mere acc
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52 Oriental Cairo are also much add
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THE CHAPTER III The Humours of the
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56 Oriental Cairo restaurateurs and
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58 Oriental Cairo stick of Edinburg
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m^Miiiiiif tit^wa illKI I. AKAb l.K
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6o Oriental Cairo I have often phot
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62 Oriental Cairo the man who canno
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CHAPTER IV The Approach to the Nati
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THE CORNER OF THE ATABA-RI.-KH AUK
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66 Oriental Cairo out of doors, for
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68 Oriental Cairo cane-scllers and
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70 Oriental Cairo Soon you pass int
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CHAPTER V The Bazars of Cairo: the
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The Bazars of Cairo 73 mediasval ma
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The Bazars of Cairo 75 he will lose
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The Bazars of Cairo 77 Turkish town
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The Bazars of Cairo 79 who muzzle t
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The Bazars of Cairo When the typica
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The Bazars of Cairo 83 the broad Sh
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r c P8 c c v> R in C T) o B D > a 2
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THE CHAPTER VI Our Dragoman first t
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Our Dragoman 87 was very courageous
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Our Dragoman 89 the seventeenth cen
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Our Dragoman 91 street for us when
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Our Dragoman 93 ware he sold second
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How to Shop in Cairo 95 museum. The
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p. 9
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How to Shop in Cairo 97 your ancien
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How to Shop in Cairo 99 have fine o
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How to Shop in Cairo lor London, a
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How to Shop in Cairo 103 adjured, t
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A MARRIAGE PROCESSION', WITH THE HO
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How to Shop in Cairo 105 ing shopke
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How to Shop in Cairo 107 Except in
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Cairo at Night 109 and their huge f
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Cairo at Night 1 1 chairs that you
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Cairo at Night 113 spectacle late t
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p. ri4] AN EFFENDI HAVING HIS FORTU
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The Entertainments of the Arabs 115
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The Entertainments of the Arabs 117
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The -Entertainments of the Arabs 11
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CHAPTER X An Arab Bank Holiday: the
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^»ii!J' GREEKS DANCING I.\ THE GAR
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An Arab Bank Holiday: the Shem-en^N
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An Arab Bank Holiday: the Sheni'en'
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THE CHAPTER XI The Cairo Zoo Cairo
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The Cairo Zoo 129 be there without
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The Cairo Zoo 131 he adopted as he
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THE CHAPTER XII The Arab and Bedawi
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The Arab and Bedawin Markets of Cai
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WEST CHAPTER XIII The Old Arab Stre
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 143 h
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo HS on
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 147 d
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 149 o
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 151 s
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CHAPTER XIV The Characteristics of
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The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
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The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
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iJIE HEART OF CAIRO. The old gate c
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I CHAPTER XV The Mosques of Cairo S
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The Mosques of Cairo i6i with mosqu
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The Mosques of Cairo 163 is to the
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The Mosques of Cairo 165 enter the
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The Mosques of Cairo 167 street. If
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The Mosques of Cairo 169 love its l
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a. 5' & > 3 5 n n -3 05 P a H o > H
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The Mosques of Cairo 171 panelling
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The Mosques of Cairo 173 Cardinal W
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The Mosques of Cairo 175 delicate i
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The Mosques of Cairo i77 arabesqued
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The Mosques of Cairo i79 open air i
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The Mosques of Cairo i8i outlined w
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The Mosques of Cairo 183 for regula
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CHAPTER XVI EI'Azhar, the Universit
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EI-'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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CHAPTER XVII Old Cairo and the Wond
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Old Cairo i95 A few enterprising fo
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Old Cairo 197 minaret is sugared ov
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Old Cairo 199 The effect of this da
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THIS PICTUKIi SHOWS THE BURKA OR FA
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202 Oriental Cairo Behind this scre
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204 Oriental Cairo place guide taki
Page 270 and 271: 2o6 Oriental Cairo Some of the anci
Page 272 and 273: 2o8 Oriental Cairo The massacre too
Page 274 and 275: 2IO Oriental Cairo gilt foolscap pu
Page 276 and 277: 212 Oriental Cairo of Jacob was of
Page 278 and 279: CHAPTER XIX Concerning the Tombs of
Page 280 and 281: 2i6 Oriental Cairo Individually, in
Page 282 and 283: 2i8 Oriental Cairo of the palace of
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Page 286 and 287: 2 20 Oriental Cairo " Then came the
Page 288 and 289: 222 Oriental Cairo of the Saint of
Page 290 and 291: 224 Oriental Cairo for their beauty
Page 292 and 293: 226 Oriental Cairo noticed hardly a
Page 294 and 295: 22 8 Oriental Cairo large rings of
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Page 298 and 299: 230 Oriental Cairo added something
Page 300 and 301: 232 Oriental Cairo gay festoons of
Page 302 and 303: 234 Oriental Cairo cessive sheykh o
Page 304 and 305: 236 Oriental Cairo cuts up the part
Page 306 and 307: THE PROCESSION OF THE HOLY CARPET,
Page 308 and 309: 238 Oriental Cairo are carried in a
Page 310 and 311: 240 Oriental Cairo spectacle was wo
Page 312 and 313: 242 Oriental Cairo malignant e)'es
Page 314 and 315: THE CHAPTER XXII The Ashura and its
Page 316 and 317: 246 Oriental Cairo ciation of forei
Page 318 and 319: 248 Oriental Cairo that Ramidge had
Page 322 and 323: 252 Oriental Cairo the supposed inc
Page 324 and 325: THE RETURN' OF THE PILGRIM FROM MEC
Page 326 and 327: 2 54 Oriental Cairo front, and bras
Page 328 and 329: 2^6 Oriental Cairo houses were deco
Page 330 and 331: 258 Oriental Cairo to take the plun
Page 332 and 333: 26o Oriental Cairo presence was det
Page 334 and 335: 262 Oriental Cairo listening to tha
Page 336 and 337: AS too crowded ; CHAPTER XXIV The M
Page 338 and 339: 266 Oriental Cairo pride of the Mus
Page 340 and 341: 268 Oriental Cairo and furniture of
Page 342 and 343: 270 Oriental Cairo In the galleries
Page 344 and 345: CHAPTER XXV The Arab Hammam—A Cla
Page 346 and 347: 274 Oriental Cairo The entrance is
Page 348 and 349: 276 Oriental Cairo They smiled cour
Page 350 and 351: 278 Oriental Cairo To the women, of
Page 352 and 353: IF CHAPTER XXVI Roda Island and Mos
Page 354 and 355: |ii(ti ti .mil m ^0 "^^ A (.uRM.K o
Page 356 and 357: 2 82 Oriental Cairo the boxes had h
Page 358 and 359: 284 Oriental Cairo to overhang the
Page 360 and 361: 2 86 Oriental Cairo avarice, or caj
Page 362 and 363: 288 OHental Cairo another officer i
Page 364 and 365: 290 Oriental Cairo antiquity, since
Page 366 and 367: CHAPTER XXVI The Old Coptic Churche
Page 368 and 369: 294 Oriental Cairo When we left the
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296 Oriental Cairo through more tha
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298 Oriental Cairo polite and cordi
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300 Oriental Cairo " Who is this Ki
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ROD-EL-FARAG CHAPTER XXVIII Rod^el'
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Rod^el^Faragf and Shubra 303 ostric
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Rod'-el'Farag and Shubra 305 vitali
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On the Humours of the Desert 307 ti
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On the Humours of the Desert 309 ho
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On the Humours of the Desert 3 1 by
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P- 312] THE SPHINX BETWEEN- THE FIR
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On the Pyramids 313 Falls of Niagar
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On the Pyramids 315 left the horse
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On the Pyramids 317 Cheops to the S
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On the Pyramids 319 a sort of bear-
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On the Pyramids 321 cannot hold the
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On the Pyramids 323 being which has
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OUR CHAPTER XXXI Sleeping at the Fe
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Sleeping at the Feet of the Sphinx
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Memphis; Tombs and Pyramids of Sakk
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13* o O s a o -i B o o > 2 C 71
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33 6 Oriental Cairo Behind the Pjra
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33^ Oriental Cairo feet high. There
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340 Oriental Cairo human touches Hk
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34^ Oriental Cairo at Heliopolis ca
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344 Oriental Cairo under the soil,
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34^ Oriental Cairo I bitterly regre
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CHAPTER XXXIV Helwan, the Week-end
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3S° Oriental Cairo wealthy, and th
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25'^ Appendix I for the same price.
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APPENDIX II Cairo was the Real Scen
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35^ Appendix II note by the same pe
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' 35^ Appendix II of the East ; nat
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360 Appendix II come across one of
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362 Appendix III known saint El-Gul
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364 Appendix III And there were oth
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366 Appendix III picturesque route
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APPENDIX IV Mr. Roosevelt's Speech
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370 Appendix IV " Your men in Afric
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372 Appendix IV such success. The i
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374 Appendix IV performing the task
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37^ Appendix IV you went into Egypt
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37 8 Rulers and Monuments of Mediae
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380 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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382 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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384 Index Baths, Arab women's, 278
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386 Index Gizeh paJace, 128 Gohar,
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1 388 Index Mosque tickets, 8g Mosq
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390 Index Sharia {covtinued) El-Klu
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PRINTED BV HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY
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'iWA:;t-. ^smi'
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