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324 Oriental Cairo<br />

in the morning, as the gold turned into withered leaves in<br />

Irving's Alhambra. The gods who punish for greed should<br />

decree this, for if you understand what Arabs are talking<br />

about, you will always find that it is money.<br />

It is by moonlight that you best realise how enormous, how<br />

mighty is the head of the Sphinx—the most subtle piece of<br />

sculpture the world ever saw ; even the muscles of its throat<br />

tell their prodigious tale by night ; it is only by night that<br />

you see the anatomy of its bones. To feel the littleness of<br />

one's life in the presence of this millionaire of time, one has<br />

only to climb up and stand upon its lion-like flanks in the<br />

cold white light.<br />

The moment we broke off our reverie with thoughts of the<br />

last tram, the Arabs began fortune-telling and scarab-selling<br />

again. As we were walking down and beating them off like<br />

flies, we caught sight of the Great Pyramid on the edge<br />

of the inundation, like Etna hanging over the Ionian Sea.<br />

But with this difference, that its double was reflected on the<br />

smooth water. Had the ancient Egyptians, I wonder, any<br />

expression which signified both the Ka, the personal double<br />

of the deceased man, and his reflection or shadow while<br />

he was alive ?<br />

The Ka, as it seemed to me, of the chief Pyramid on the<br />

water, fixed in me the resolve to come back with blankets,<br />

and pass the whole night in the magic company of the<br />

Pyramids and the Sphinx.

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