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12 Oriental Cairo XXV. XXVI. XXVII. XXVIII. XXIX. XXX. XXXI. XXXII. XXXIII. XXXIV. XXXV. XXXVI. XXXVII. XXXVIII. XXXIX. XJ.. XLI. XLII. XLIII. XLIV. XLV. XLVI. XLVII. XLVIII. XLIX. LI. LII. LIII. LIV. LV. LVI. PAGE The Bab-es-Zuweyla and the Ancient Buildings round it .24 From the Bab-es-Zuweyla to the Citadel ; the Kismas-el-Ishaky Mosque and the Fountain of Mohammed Katkhoda . . 25 The M.igniticenl old Mosque of El-Merdani . . . .25 The Palace of the Haret-el-Merdani—the finest Courtyard in Cairo ........... 26 Old Arab Mansions on the Way to the Armourers' Suk ; and an old Arab Bath . . . . . . .27 The Armourers' Suk ; Sultan Hassan's and the El-Rifai'ya Mosque ; First View of the Citadel 27 The Drive from Sultan Hassan's Mosque to the Citadel and back to El-Merdani's Mosque 27 The Mosques of the Sharia Bab-cl-Wazir ; the Kheirbck Mosque, the Blue Mosque, and Sultan Sha'ban's Mosque . 28 An E.xample of the Windows called Kamariya . . .28 The Sights of the Citadel 29 The El-IIilmiya and Ibn-Tulun Districts . . . .29 The Derb-el-Gamamise and its Sights 30 The Antique Arab Palace of the Sheikh Sadat . . .30 The Sharia El-Hilmiya and its Mosques 31 The Sharia Es-Chikhun and its Mosques . . . .31 The Mosque of Ibn-Tulun 31 Old Mameluke Houses near Ibn-Tulun's Mosque . . .32 The Mosiûe of Kait Bey ....... 32 The Ancient Houses of El-Katai and the Tombs of the Mamelukes .......... 32 Ttie Mostjue of Imam .ShaPyi . , . . . -33 The Mounds of Fustat—the First Arab City on the Site of Cairo 33 The Mosque of Amr ........ 34 The Coptic Churches of Der Abu Sefen . . . . -34 Old Cairo .......... 34 The Gizeh Ferry; The Nilomcter ; Moses on Koda Island; The Origin of the Egyptian Babylon ..... The Coptic Houses and the Famous Coptic Churches of Babylon .......... The Residence of the Holy Family in Egypt .... The Mo'allaka— the I langing Church of Babylon . The Church of the Virgin ; Dcr Todros and Der Balilun The Old Greek Cathedral of Babylon ..... Bulak, Shubra, Rod-el-Farag, and Abbassiya .... The Drive across the Nile Bridge ...... '"TÎII'", first thing to do when you get to any town that 1 you wi.sh to study is to take what the ItaHans call a drive of Orientation. The mo.st convenient point to .select for the centre of Cairo is the Dace de I'Opcra between the 35 35 35 2>6 36 37 37 38
A Drive Round Cairo 13 Oprea, the Hotel Continental and the Esbekiya Gardens. It is not really so central as the Abdin Palace, geographically speaking, but it is at the crossing of the principal routes. I.-EUROPEANISED CAIRO. I. The Ismailiya Quarter: the District of the Foreign Hotels, Shops, Business Offices, and Chief Residences The first quarter of Cairo you drive round takes very little time ; it is the smallest, bounded by the Sharia Kasr-el-Nil, the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, the Ismailiya Canal, and the Sharia Kamel, which changes its name to the Sharia Nubar Pasha as it approaches the railway station. This is the European business quarter. In it are situated the Cairo Head Offices of the Suez Canal Company, on the last named street ; and the office of Thomas Cook & Son, Shepheard's Hotel and the Hotel Continental on the Sharia Kamel. The Savoy Hotel, the Consulates General of France and Russia, and the three chief banks are all situated on or just off the Sharia Kasr-el-Nil ; while the Turf Club, the Hotel d'Angleterre, the British Consulate Offices, the English Church, and the Offices of the Eastern Telegraph Company are all situated in the centre of the block ; and the Abbas Theatre, not very far behind Cook's Office. The best foreign shops are in the Sharia Kamel, the Sharia EI-Maghrabi, the Sharia Manakh, the Sharia Bulak, and the Sharia Kasr-el-Nil, all in this quarter, and most of the other foreign business houses are near them. In other words, this is the quarter of Cairo where most of the well-off foreigners live and move and do their shopping, called vaguely the Ismailiya quarter. II. Route for Seeing the Ismailiya Quarter The best way to see it in a carriage is to drive from the Sharia Kamel to the Sharia Suleiman Pasha down the Sharia Bulak and up the Sharia El-Maghradi, down the Sharia Manakh and up the Sharia Kasr-el-Nil, finishing up with a
Page 1: ^4398^'
Page 6: SOME OF MR. DOUGLAS SLADEN'S BOOKS
Page 9 and 10: ORIENTAL CAIRO THE CITY OF THE ''AR
Page 11: DEDICATED, IN MEMORY OF DAYS SPENT
Page 14 and 15: VI 11 Preface wc have him in the st
Page 16 and 17: ^ CHAPTER Contents PAGE IV. THE APP
Page 18 and 19: ^" CHAPTKH Contents XXXII. MEMPHIS,
Page 20 and 21: '^^^ List of Illustrations FACING A
Page 22 and 23: xvi List of Illustrations FACING PA
Page 24 and 25: NATIVK liUa Ul Il!l. .MOKI". KIUIMC
Page 26 and 27: 2 Oriental Cairo After this I hope
Page 28 and 29: 4 Oriental Cairo that Cairo was inh
Page 30 and 31: I HE OCCITATION OF EGYPT SLEIil'INt
Page 32 and 33: 6 Oriental Cairo The minarets of El
Page 34 and 35: 8 Oriental Cairo On every side the
Page 36 and 37: CASTING iU.^ t-VE : A LITTLE COMEDY
Page 38 and 39: lo Oriental Cairo is followed by a
Page 40 and 41: 3 Q :n A Uj < -d ^ 'i < 1 S 5 _ i>
Page 44 and 45: 14 Oriental Cairo drive along the f
Page 46 and 47: A GRAND JEWISH FUNERAL AT CAIRO (ll
Page 48 and 49: 1 6 Oriental Cairo V. The Sharia Mo
Page 50 and 51: 1 8 Oriental Cairo a splendid stret
Page 52 and 53: 20 Oriental Cairo XIV, The Beit-Gam
Page 54 and 55: BEDAWIN AT THE OIZUH MARKET. In fro
Page 56 and 57: 22 Oriental Cairo the right into th
Page 58 and 59: 24 Oriental Cairo ancient mosques w
Page 60 and 61: 26 Oriental Cairo tlic perpendicula
Page 62 and 63: 28 Oriental Cairo glare of an indes
Page 64 and 65: I A A SNAKE CHARMER. The saakeiii o
Page 66 and 67: 30 Oriental Cairo med AH on the eas
Page 68 and 69: 32 Oriental Cairo several ways is t
Page 70 and 71: 34 Oriental Cairo drive round this
Page 72 and 73: 36 Oriental Cairo LII. The Mo'allak
Page 74 and 75: 3 8 Oriental Cairo the desert is th
Page 76 and 77: A SUA fc.K-AND-l\f>I
Page 78 and 79: 40 Oriental Cairo features and expr
Page 80 and 81: 42 Oriental Cairo Phoenixes in the
Page 82 and 83: FORAGE CAMEL X'Mr Ihfj |iii tiiri--
Page 84 and 85: 44 Oriental Cairo administration of
Page 86 and 87: 4^ Oriental Cairo dile on his head
Page 88 and 89: 48 Oriental Cairo smokinc^. While I
Page 90 and 91: WOMAN CARRYING A HUGE IRON CAULDRON
Page 92 and 93:
50 Oriental Cairo with the mere acc
Page 94 and 95:
52 Oriental Cairo are also much add
Page 96 and 97:
THE CHAPTER III The Humours of the
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56 Oriental Cairo restaurateurs and
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58 Oriental Cairo stick of Edinburg
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m^Miiiiiif tit^wa illKI I. AKAb l.K
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6o Oriental Cairo I have often phot
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62 Oriental Cairo the man who canno
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CHAPTER IV The Approach to the Nati
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THE CORNER OF THE ATABA-RI.-KH AUK
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66 Oriental Cairo out of doors, for
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68 Oriental Cairo cane-scllers and
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70 Oriental Cairo Soon you pass int
Page 118:
CHAPTER V The Bazars of Cairo: the
Page 121 and 122:
The Bazars of Cairo 73 mediasval ma
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The Bazars of Cairo 75 he will lose
Page 125 and 126:
The Bazars of Cairo 77 Turkish town
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The Bazars of Cairo 79 who muzzle t
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The Bazars of Cairo When the typica
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The Bazars of Cairo 83 the broad Sh
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r c P8 c c v> R in C T) o B D > a 2
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THE CHAPTER VI Our Dragoman first t
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Our Dragoman 87 was very courageous
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Our Dragoman 89 the seventeenth cen
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Our Dragoman 91 street for us when
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Our Dragoman 93 ware he sold second
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How to Shop in Cairo 95 museum. The
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p. 9
Page 149 and 150:
How to Shop in Cairo 97 your ancien
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How to Shop in Cairo 99 have fine o
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How to Shop in Cairo lor London, a
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How to Shop in Cairo 103 adjured, t
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A MARRIAGE PROCESSION', WITH THE HO
Page 159 and 160:
How to Shop in Cairo 105 ing shopke
Page 161 and 162:
How to Shop in Cairo 107 Except in
Page 163 and 164:
Cairo at Night 109 and their huge f
Page 165 and 166:
Cairo at Night 1 1 chairs that you
Page 167 and 168:
Cairo at Night 113 spectacle late t
Page 169 and 170:
p. ri4] AN EFFENDI HAVING HIS FORTU
Page 171 and 172:
The Entertainments of the Arabs 115
Page 173 and 174:
The Entertainments of the Arabs 117
Page 175 and 176:
The -Entertainments of the Arabs 11
Page 177 and 178:
CHAPTER X An Arab Bank Holiday: the
Page 179 and 180:
^»ii!J' GREEKS DANCING I.\ THE GAR
Page 181 and 182:
An Arab Bank Holiday: the Shem-en^N
Page 183 and 184:
An Arab Bank Holiday: the Sheni'en'
Page 185 and 186:
THE CHAPTER XI The Cairo Zoo Cairo
Page 187 and 188:
The Cairo Zoo 129 be there without
Page 189 and 190:
The Cairo Zoo 131 he adopted as he
Page 191 and 192:
THE CHAPTER XII The Arab and Bedawi
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The Arab and Bedawin Markets of Cai
Page 195 and 196:
Page 197 and 198:
Page 199 and 200:
WEST CHAPTER XIII The Old Arab Stre
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 143 h
Page 203 and 204:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo HS on
Page 205 and 206:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 147 d
Page 207 and 208:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 149 o
Page 209 and 210:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 151 s
Page 211 and 212:
CHAPTER XIV The Characteristics of
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The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
Page 215 and 216:
The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
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iJIE HEART OF CAIRO. The old gate c
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I CHAPTER XV The Mosques of Cairo S
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The Mosques of Cairo i6i with mosqu
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The Mosques of Cairo 163 is to the
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The Mosques of Cairo 165 enter the
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The Mosques of Cairo 167 street. If
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The Mosques of Cairo 169 love its l
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a. 5' & > 3 5 n n -3 05 P a H o > H
Page 233 and 234:
The Mosques of Cairo 171 panelling
Page 235 and 236:
The Mosques of Cairo 173 Cardinal W
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The Mosques of Cairo 175 delicate i
Page 239 and 240:
The Mosques of Cairo i77 arabesqued
Page 241 and 242:
The Mosques of Cairo i79 open air i
Page 243 and 244:
The Mosques of Cairo i8i outlined w
Page 245 and 246:
The Mosques of Cairo 183 for regula
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CHAPTER XVI EI'Azhar, the Universit
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EI-'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
Page 251 and 252:
EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
Page 255 and 256:
CHAPTER XVII Old Cairo and the Wond
Page 257 and 258:
Old Cairo i95 A few enterprising fo
Page 259 and 260:
Old Cairo 197 minaret is sugared ov
Page 261 and 262:
Old Cairo 199 The effect of this da
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THIS PICTUKIi SHOWS THE BURKA OR FA
Page 266 and 267:
202 Oriental Cairo Behind this scre
Page 268 and 269:
204 Oriental Cairo place guide taki
Page 270 and 271:
2o6 Oriental Cairo Some of the anci
Page 272 and 273:
2o8 Oriental Cairo The massacre too
Page 274 and 275:
2IO Oriental Cairo gilt foolscap pu
Page 276 and 277:
212 Oriental Cairo of Jacob was of
Page 278 and 279:
CHAPTER XIX Concerning the Tombs of
Page 280 and 281:
2i6 Oriental Cairo Individually, in
Page 282 and 283:
2i8 Oriental Cairo of the palace of
Page 284 and 285:
a. a
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2 20 Oriental Cairo " Then came the
Page 288 and 289:
222 Oriental Cairo of the Saint of
Page 290 and 291:
224 Oriental Cairo for their beauty
Page 292 and 293:
226 Oriental Cairo noticed hardly a
Page 294 and 295:
22 8 Oriental Cairo large rings of
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o /. := O ::: a C a H « g
Page 298 and 299:
230 Oriental Cairo added something
Page 300 and 301:
232 Oriental Cairo gay festoons of
Page 302 and 303:
234 Oriental Cairo cessive sheykh o
Page 304 and 305:
236 Oriental Cairo cuts up the part
Page 306 and 307:
THE PROCESSION OF THE HOLY CARPET,
Page 308 and 309:
238 Oriental Cairo are carried in a
Page 310 and 311:
240 Oriental Cairo spectacle was wo
Page 312 and 313:
242 Oriental Cairo malignant e)'es
Page 314 and 315:
THE CHAPTER XXII The Ashura and its
Page 316 and 317:
246 Oriental Cairo ciation of forei
Page 318 and 319:
248 Oriental Cairo that Ramidge had
Page 320 and 321:
250 Oriental Cairo I was disappoint
Page 322 and 323:
252 Oriental Cairo the supposed inc
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THE RETURN' OF THE PILGRIM FROM MEC
Page 326 and 327:
2 54 Oriental Cairo front, and bras
Page 328 and 329:
2^6 Oriental Cairo houses were deco
Page 330 and 331:
258 Oriental Cairo to take the plun
Page 332 and 333:
26o Oriental Cairo presence was det
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262 Oriental Cairo listening to tha
Page 336 and 337:
AS too crowded ; CHAPTER XXIV The M
Page 338 and 339:
266 Oriental Cairo pride of the Mus
Page 340 and 341:
268 Oriental Cairo and furniture of
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270 Oriental Cairo In the galleries
Page 344 and 345:
CHAPTER XXV The Arab Hammam—A Cla
Page 346 and 347:
274 Oriental Cairo The entrance is
Page 348 and 349:
276 Oriental Cairo They smiled cour
Page 350 and 351:
278 Oriental Cairo To the women, of
Page 352 and 353:
IF CHAPTER XXVI Roda Island and Mos
Page 354 and 355:
|ii(ti ti .mil m ^0 "^^ A (.uRM.K o
Page 356 and 357:
2 82 Oriental Cairo the boxes had h
Page 358 and 359:
284 Oriental Cairo to overhang the
Page 360 and 361:
2 86 Oriental Cairo avarice, or caj
Page 362 and 363:
288 OHental Cairo another officer i
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290 Oriental Cairo antiquity, since
Page 366 and 367:
CHAPTER XXVI The Old Coptic Churche
Page 368 and 369:
294 Oriental Cairo When we left the
Page 370 and 371:
296 Oriental Cairo through more tha
Page 372 and 373:
298 Oriental Cairo polite and cordi
Page 374 and 375:
300 Oriental Cairo " Who is this Ki
Page 376:
ROD-EL-FARAG CHAPTER XXVIII Rodêl'
Page 379 and 380:
Rodêl^Faragf and Shubra 303 ostric
Page 381 and 382:
Rod'-el'Farag and Shubra 305 vitali
Page 383 and 384:
On the Humours of the Desert 307 ti
Page 385 and 386:
On the Humours of the Desert 309 ho
Page 387 and 388:
On the Humours of the Desert 3 1 by
Page 389 and 390:
P- 312] THE SPHINX BETWEEN- THE FIR
Page 391 and 392:
On the Pyramids 313 Falls of Niagar
Page 393 and 394:
On the Pyramids 315 left the horse
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On the Pyramids 317 Cheops to the S
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On the Pyramids 319 a sort of bear-
Page 399 and 400:
On the Pyramids 321 cannot hold the
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On the Pyramids 323 being which has
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OUR CHAPTER XXXI Sleeping at the Fe
Page 405 and 406:
Sleeping at the Feet of the Sphinx
Page 407 and 408:
Page 409 and 410:
Page 411 and 412:
Memphis; Tombs and Pyramids of Sakk
Page 413:
13* o O s a o -i B o o > 2 C 71
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33 6 Oriental Cairo Behind the Pjra
Page 418 and 419:
33^ Oriental Cairo feet high. There
Page 420 and 421:
340 Oriental Cairo human touches Hk
Page 422 and 423:
34^ Oriental Cairo at Heliopolis ca
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344 Oriental Cairo under the soil,
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34^ Oriental Cairo I bitterly regre
Page 428 and 429:
CHAPTER XXXIV Helwan, the Week-end
Page 430 and 431:
3S° Oriental Cairo wealthy, and th
Page 432 and 433:
25'^ Appendix I for the same price.
Page 434 and 435:
APPENDIX II Cairo was the Real Scen
Page 436 and 437:
35^ Appendix II note by the same pe
Page 438 and 439:
' 35^ Appendix II of the East ; nat
Page 440 and 441:
360 Appendix II come across one of
Page 442 and 443:
362 Appendix III known saint El-Gul
Page 444 and 445:
364 Appendix III And there were oth
Page 446 and 447:
366 Appendix III picturesque route
Page 448 and 449:
APPENDIX IV Mr. Roosevelt's Speech
Page 450 and 451:
370 Appendix IV " Your men in Afric
Page 452 and 453:
372 Appendix IV such success. The i
Page 454 and 455:
374 Appendix IV performing the task
Page 456 and 457:
37^ Appendix IV you went into Egypt
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37 8 Rulers and Monuments of Mediae
Page 460 and 461:
380 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
Page 462 and 463:
382 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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384 Index Baths, Arab women's, 278
Page 466 and 467:
386 Index Gizeh paJace, 128 Gohar,
Page 468 and 469:
1 388 Index Mosque tickets, 8g Mosq
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390 Index Sharia {covtinued) El-Klu
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PRINTED BV HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY
Page 476:
'iWA:;t-. ^smi'
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