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Arab Domestic Processions 259<br />

the dim sky-lines of its tall mosques. But within the gate itself<br />

silence was broken by a blind fikce and his wife, who were<br />

intoning the Koran in a melancholy drawl to an audience<br />

of nobody—merely accumulating virtue. We got into our<br />

carriage again and drove on up the hill, casting a look backwards<br />

at the vague fantastic outlines of the two great mina-<br />

rets, which the El-Moayyad mosque has planted on the old<br />

Saracenic towers of the Bab-es-Zuweyla. There was hardly<br />

a single light in the street ; we almost drove into the Kismas-<br />

el-Ishaky mosque in the gloom, and our way seemed to get<br />

darker and darker as we drove down the Sharia Darb-el-/\hmar<br />

and round the point of Mohammed Katkhoda's exquisite<br />

fountain and Koran school.<br />

But before we had gone much farther a blaze of light broke<br />

upon our eyes. Festoons of lanterns and flags adorned with<br />

the Khedivial emblem and Koran texts were looped across<br />

the street, and right ahead of us was that great pilgrimage<br />

and wedding marquee roofing in the entire square of the<br />

mosque and filled with a blinding glare of electric light.<br />

The interior of the marquee presented a very dififerent<br />

spectacle from yesterday. In the high light of the great<br />

chandeliers and crystal lamps, the noble Koran embroideries<br />

with which it was lined positively glowed and the armchairs<br />

and the long dikkas, covered with rich carpets and tapestries,<br />

were filled by dignified-looking Arabs, mostly in rich native<br />

dress. The speaker who was addressing them was almost the<br />

only man in the place in European dress, and turbans far<br />

outnumbered iarbAsIies. He had a beautiful delivery—beauti-<br />

ful enough to give me great pleasure ; though of course 1<br />

could not understand a word he was saying. Ramidge, who<br />

was with us, said it was mild Nationalism, a sort of Egyptian<br />

castles in Spain. And the big, gilt glass, tinselly-looking<br />

fly-balls with which the marquee was hung to multiply reflec-<br />

tions, seemed more appropriate. They were as big as foot-<br />

balls. But the speaker flowed on and on, till it was more like<br />

a sermon than a speech. But the audience continued rapt,<br />

and almost reduced to tears.<br />

After we had watched for a while from the outside our

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