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CAIRO<br />

CHAPTER XXIII<br />

Arab Domestic Processions<br />

is full of prizes for the photographer. The Arab<br />

loves pageants, and is as fond of being the central<br />

figure in a show as Mr. Roosevelt himself. His two great<br />

opportunities for it are getting married and going on a<br />

pilgrimage to Mecca, or rather returning from one. I imagine<br />

that there must be a sort of undertaker ; perhaps there is a<br />

whole profession of them to supply the palanquins and camel-<br />

trappings and banners and bands which characterise the pro-<br />

cessions of both kinds. At any rate, the same procession did<br />

duty for a number of pilgrims, as I know from my own kodak.<br />

Sometimes the processions are much longer and more elaborate<br />

than at others, I suppose in proportion to the amount of<br />

money which the family is willing to pay the undertaker.<br />

Large or small, the processions are always gorgeous and<br />

barbaric, and their approach is always heralded by a tumtuming<br />

and cymballing of wild Oriental music.<br />

I hardly ever went out in the streets without my kodak,<br />

and if I was in the hotel when I heard those weird sounds I<br />

always flew for my kodak and flew out into the street. And<br />

it was seldom that there was not something worth photo-<br />

graphing even when one had scores of photographs of<br />

palanquins and camel bands.<br />

There is a regular pilgrim season in Cairo, just before the<br />

return of the Holy Carpet from Mecca. The private pilgrims<br />

move more quickly. Their arrival causes great excitement.<br />

In the old Arab part of Cairo making a pilgrimage to Mecca<br />

is still such an event that, when the pilgrim returns, they paint<br />

251

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