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278 Oriental Cairo To the women, of course, the bath was much more of an event than to the men, for it was their chief outing. Lane says that they put on their jewels and their finest clothes, and entered into quite familiar conversation with anybody they met there, even if they were perfect strangers. They took fruits and sweetmeats and other refreshments with them and made no end of noise. And if they were ladies of position they took their own maids with them to wash them and perform the other operations for them. The baths, in fact, used to be, if they are not now, regular women's clubs, and a great place for mothers to choose wives for their sons, because they had such admirable opportunities for close inspection. The bath used to come in again when the marriage was actually in progress, for the lady and her friends used to hire the whole bath, or at any rate one of the apartments in which the hanafiya and the tank are contained. I forgot to say that they are lined with marble throughout, like the rest of the chambers in the great old baths. Besides smoking in the bath, the women, especially when the whole bath was hired for a marriage, sometimes took the performing women called alniehs with them to entertain them with singing of an amatory order. Each bath has in its corner an enormous boiler for supply- ing it with hot air and hot water, and in the days before water companies used to be rendered even more picturesque by having a sakiya driven by an ox to pump up from a well the water for the establishment. Cairo is sufficiently near the infiltrating Nile to have any amount of well-water at the Nile level. I have given so many details of the bathing processes that this chapter may read like a description of the origin of the Turkish bath. I can assure the reader that when I was in the baths I paid little heed to the processes, and thought more of the wonderful picture presented by these halls of antique marble, fountains and arches, made mystical as well as misty by the steaming waters, and filled with the appro- priate figures to conjure up before my mind the baths of Pompeii. Thus must they have looked, when their fre-
Arab Hammam—A Classical Turkish Bath 279 quenters were pursuing their common idle round for want of more serious tasks, till Vesuvius suddenly descended upon them in ashes and put a cruel stop to their idyll of a Golden Age on that black day seventy-nine years after the coming of Christ, which was almost a symbol of the passing away of the pagan world. Two of the best old Arab hamniams to visit are that on the right-hand side as you go down the Sharia Emir-el- Giyiichi just before you get to the Sharia El-Marguchi, which is a continuation of the Sharia En-Nahassin going towards the Bab-el-Futuh ; and the bath of the Emir Beshtak. This is in the Armourer's Suk (Suk Es-Sellaha) half way between the Merdani mosque and the Sharia Mohammed AH near the corner of the little Sharia El-Khandur. Residents told me that this was considered the best in Cairo. Close to the El-GiyCichi bath is a very interesting and ancient-looking oil- mill worked by a sakiya.
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^4398^'
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SOME OF MR. DOUGLAS SLADEN'S BOOKS
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ORIENTAL CAIRO THE CITY OF THE ''AR
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DEDICATED, IN MEMORY OF DAYS SPENT
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VI 11 Preface wc have him in the st
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^ CHAPTER Contents PAGE IV. THE APP
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^" CHAPTKH Contents XXXII. MEMPHIS,
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'^^^ List of Illustrations FACING A
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xvi List of Illustrations FACING PA
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NATIVK liUa Ul Il!l. .MOKI". KIUIMC
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2 Oriental Cairo After this I hope
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4 Oriental Cairo that Cairo was inh
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I HE OCCITATION OF EGYPT SLEIil'INt
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6 Oriental Cairo The minarets of El
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8 Oriental Cairo On every side the
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CASTING iU.^ t-VE : A LITTLE COMEDY
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lo Oriental Cairo is followed by a
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3 Q :n A Uj < -d ^ 'i < 1 S 5 _ i>
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12 Oriental Cairo XXV. XXVI. XXVII.
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14 Oriental Cairo drive along the f
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A GRAND JEWISH FUNERAL AT CAIRO (ll
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1 6 Oriental Cairo V. The Sharia Mo
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1 8 Oriental Cairo a splendid stret
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20 Oriental Cairo XIV, The Beit-Gam
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BEDAWIN AT THE OIZUH MARKET. In fro
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22 Oriental Cairo the right into th
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24 Oriental Cairo ancient mosques w
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26 Oriental Cairo tlic perpendicula
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28 Oriental Cairo glare of an indes
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I A A SNAKE CHARMER. The saakeiii o
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30 Oriental Cairo med AH on the eas
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32 Oriental Cairo several ways is t
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34 Oriental Cairo drive round this
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36 Oriental Cairo LII. The Mo'allak
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3 8 Oriental Cairo the desert is th
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A SUA fc.K-AND-l\f>I
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40 Oriental Cairo features and expr
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42 Oriental Cairo Phoenixes in the
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FORAGE CAMEL X'Mr Ihfj |iii tiiri--
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44 Oriental Cairo administration of
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4^ Oriental Cairo dile on his head
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48 Oriental Cairo smokinc^. While I
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WOMAN CARRYING A HUGE IRON CAULDRON
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50 Oriental Cairo with the mere acc
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52 Oriental Cairo are also much add
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THE CHAPTER III The Humours of the
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56 Oriental Cairo restaurateurs and
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58 Oriental Cairo stick of Edinburg
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m^Miiiiiif tit^wa illKI I. AKAb l.K
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6o Oriental Cairo I have often phot
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62 Oriental Cairo the man who canno
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CHAPTER IV The Approach to the Nati
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THE CORNER OF THE ATABA-RI.-KH AUK
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66 Oriental Cairo out of doors, for
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68 Oriental Cairo cane-scllers and
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70 Oriental Cairo Soon you pass int
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CHAPTER V The Bazars of Cairo: the
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The Bazars of Cairo 73 mediasval ma
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The Bazars of Cairo 75 he will lose
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The Bazars of Cairo 77 Turkish town
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The Bazars of Cairo 79 who muzzle t
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The Bazars of Cairo When the typica
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The Bazars of Cairo 83 the broad Sh
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r c P8 c c v> R in C T) o B D > a 2
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THE CHAPTER VI Our Dragoman first t
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Our Dragoman 87 was very courageous
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Our Dragoman 89 the seventeenth cen
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Our Dragoman 91 street for us when
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Our Dragoman 93 ware he sold second
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How to Shop in Cairo 95 museum. The
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p. 9
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How to Shop in Cairo 97 your ancien
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How to Shop in Cairo 99 have fine o
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How to Shop in Cairo lor London, a
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How to Shop in Cairo 103 adjured, t
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A MARRIAGE PROCESSION', WITH THE HO
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How to Shop in Cairo 105 ing shopke
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How to Shop in Cairo 107 Except in
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Cairo at Night 109 and their huge f
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Cairo at Night 1 1 chairs that you
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Cairo at Night 113 spectacle late t
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p. ri4] AN EFFENDI HAVING HIS FORTU
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The Entertainments of the Arabs 115
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The Entertainments of the Arabs 117
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The -Entertainments of the Arabs 11
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CHAPTER X An Arab Bank Holiday: the
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^»ii!J' GREEKS DANCING I.\ THE GAR
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An Arab Bank Holiday: the Shem-en^N
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An Arab Bank Holiday: the Sheni'en'
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THE CHAPTER XI The Cairo Zoo Cairo
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The Cairo Zoo 129 be there without
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The Cairo Zoo 131 he adopted as he
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THE CHAPTER XII The Arab and Bedawi
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The Arab and Bedawin Markets of Cai
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WEST CHAPTER XIII The Old Arab Stre
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 143 h
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo HS on
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 147 d
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 149 o
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 151 s
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CHAPTER XIV The Characteristics of
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The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
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The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
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iJIE HEART OF CAIRO. The old gate c
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I CHAPTER XV The Mosques of Cairo S
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The Mosques of Cairo i6i with mosqu
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The Mosques of Cairo 163 is to the
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The Mosques of Cairo 165 enter the
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The Mosques of Cairo 167 street. If
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The Mosques of Cairo 169 love its l
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a. 5' & > 3 5 n n -3 05 P a H o > H
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The Mosques of Cairo 171 panelling
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The Mosques of Cairo 173 Cardinal W
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The Mosques of Cairo 175 delicate i
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The Mosques of Cairo i77 arabesqued
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The Mosques of Cairo i79 open air i
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The Mosques of Cairo i8i outlined w
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The Mosques of Cairo 183 for regula
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CHAPTER XVI EI'Azhar, the Universit
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EI-'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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CHAPTER XVII Old Cairo and the Wond
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Old Cairo i95 A few enterprising fo
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Old Cairo 197 minaret is sugared ov
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Old Cairo 199 The effect of this da
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THIS PICTUKIi SHOWS THE BURKA OR FA
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202 Oriental Cairo Behind this scre
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204 Oriental Cairo place guide taki
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2o6 Oriental Cairo Some of the anci
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2o8 Oriental Cairo The massacre too
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2IO Oriental Cairo gilt foolscap pu
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212 Oriental Cairo of Jacob was of
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CHAPTER XIX Concerning the Tombs of
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2i6 Oriental Cairo Individually, in
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2i8 Oriental Cairo of the palace of
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a. a
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2 20 Oriental Cairo " Then came the
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222 Oriental Cairo of the Saint of
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224 Oriental Cairo for their beauty
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226 Oriental Cairo noticed hardly a
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22 8 Oriental Cairo large rings of
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o /. := O ::: a C a H « g
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230 Oriental Cairo added something
Page 300 and 301: 232 Oriental Cairo gay festoons of
Page 302 and 303: 234 Oriental Cairo cessive sheykh o
Page 304 and 305: 236 Oriental Cairo cuts up the part
Page 306 and 307: THE PROCESSION OF THE HOLY CARPET,
Page 308 and 309: 238 Oriental Cairo are carried in a
Page 310 and 311: 240 Oriental Cairo spectacle was wo
Page 312 and 313: 242 Oriental Cairo malignant e)'es
Page 314 and 315: THE CHAPTER XXII The Ashura and its
Page 316 and 317: 246 Oriental Cairo ciation of forei
Page 318 and 319: 248 Oriental Cairo that Ramidge had
Page 320 and 321: 250 Oriental Cairo I was disappoint
Page 322 and 323: 252 Oriental Cairo the supposed inc
Page 324 and 325: THE RETURN' OF THE PILGRIM FROM MEC
Page 326 and 327: 2 54 Oriental Cairo front, and bras
Page 328 and 329: 2^6 Oriental Cairo houses were deco
Page 330 and 331: 258 Oriental Cairo to take the plun
Page 332 and 333: 26o Oriental Cairo presence was det
Page 334 and 335: 262 Oriental Cairo listening to tha
Page 336 and 337: AS too crowded ; CHAPTER XXIV The M
Page 338 and 339: 266 Oriental Cairo pride of the Mus
Page 340 and 341: 268 Oriental Cairo and furniture of
Page 342 and 343: 270 Oriental Cairo In the galleries
Page 344 and 345: CHAPTER XXV The Arab Hammam—A Cla
Page 346 and 347: 274 Oriental Cairo The entrance is
Page 348 and 349: 276 Oriental Cairo They smiled cour
Page 352 and 353: IF CHAPTER XXVI Roda Island and Mos
Page 354 and 355: |ii(ti ti .mil m ^0 "^^ A (.uRM.K o
Page 356 and 357: 2 82 Oriental Cairo the boxes had h
Page 358 and 359: 284 Oriental Cairo to overhang the
Page 360 and 361: 2 86 Oriental Cairo avarice, or caj
Page 362 and 363: 288 OHental Cairo another officer i
Page 364 and 365: 290 Oriental Cairo antiquity, since
Page 366 and 367: CHAPTER XXVI The Old Coptic Churche
Page 368 and 369: 294 Oriental Cairo When we left the
Page 370 and 371: 296 Oriental Cairo through more tha
Page 372 and 373: 298 Oriental Cairo polite and cordi
Page 374 and 375: 300 Oriental Cairo " Who is this Ki
Page 376: ROD-EL-FARAG CHAPTER XXVIII Rod^el'
Page 379 and 380: Rod^el^Faragf and Shubra 303 ostric
Page 381 and 382: Rod'-el'Farag and Shubra 305 vitali
Page 383 and 384: On the Humours of the Desert 307 ti
Page 385 and 386: On the Humours of the Desert 309 ho
Page 387 and 388: On the Humours of the Desert 3 1 by
Page 389 and 390: P- 312] THE SPHINX BETWEEN- THE FIR
Page 391 and 392: On the Pyramids 313 Falls of Niagar
Page 393 and 394: On the Pyramids 315 left the horse
Page 395 and 396: On the Pyramids 317 Cheops to the S
Page 397 and 398: On the Pyramids 319 a sort of bear-
Page 399 and 400: On the Pyramids 321 cannot hold the
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On the Pyramids 323 being which has
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OUR CHAPTER XXXI Sleeping at the Fe
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Sleeping at the Feet of the Sphinx
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Memphis; Tombs and Pyramids of Sakk
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13* o O s a o -i B o o > 2 C 71
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33 6 Oriental Cairo Behind the Pjra
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33^ Oriental Cairo feet high. There
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340 Oriental Cairo human touches Hk
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34^ Oriental Cairo at Heliopolis ca
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344 Oriental Cairo under the soil,
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34^ Oriental Cairo I bitterly regre
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CHAPTER XXXIV Helwan, the Week-end
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3S° Oriental Cairo wealthy, and th
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25'^ Appendix I for the same price.
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APPENDIX II Cairo was the Real Scen
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35^ Appendix II note by the same pe
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' 35^ Appendix II of the East ; nat
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360 Appendix II come across one of
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362 Appendix III known saint El-Gul
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364 Appendix III And there were oth
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366 Appendix III picturesque route
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APPENDIX IV Mr. Roosevelt's Speech
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370 Appendix IV " Your men in Afric
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372 Appendix IV such success. The i
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374 Appendix IV performing the task
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37^ Appendix IV you went into Egypt
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37 8 Rulers and Monuments of Mediae
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380 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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382 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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384 Index Baths, Arab women's, 278
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386 Index Gizeh paJace, 128 Gohar,
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1 388 Index Mosque tickets, 8g Mosq
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390 Index Sharia {covtinued) El-Klu
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PRINTED BV HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY
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'iWA:;t-. ^smi'
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