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On the Humours of the Desert 309<br />

horned viper of Egypt, which killed the superb Cleopatra, and<br />

which Nature has clothed in the colour of the desert, keeps<br />

near its edges ; the birds of the air as well as the reptiles<br />

under the earth dread its depths. We did not see one bird<br />

as we were crossing the desert to the Great Oasis.<br />

The mineral world is not so chary. Not only does the<br />

desert abound in valuable quarries—there are portions of it<br />

like this very portion which I have been describing, which<br />

abound in mines worked by the ancients for gold and man-<br />

ganese and flints and the precious cobalt.<br />

The true desert has no vegetation. The border plants are<br />

the gigantic spurge, which bears the refreshing-looking but<br />

hollow Dead Sea Fruit, and the Bitter Apple, a gourd whose<br />

vine dies away in the heat, leaving golden fruit, like sugar<br />

melons, on the sand.<br />

Any vegetation beyond this indicates the presence of water ;<br />

and where there is water there is no true desert. The desert<br />

would run down to the Nile for nearly its entire course, were<br />

it not that, within reach of the Nile, it can almost always be<br />

cultivated, if it is only with castor-oil plants.<br />

The desert is Nature's paint-box. Round the Great Oasis<br />

you find all manner of stones, hued like the rainbow, which<br />

grind up into the paints used by the ancient Egyptian in<br />

frescoing his miles of tombs and acres of temples.<br />

It seems verily that the desert is only a deserted place, for<br />

Captain Young, late Governor of Haifa, has discovered that<br />

with some surface-shifting and well-sinking the whole desert<br />

between Haifa and Khartum could be put under crops.<br />

There is water between fifty and sixty feet of the surface.<br />

I am not so surprised at that, for it is a nice, genial-looking<br />

desert, with the same sort of sands as you get at Paignton or<br />

Tenby, decoratively backgrounded with pyramids (as at<br />

Meravvi—the ancient Meroe) or mountains that look like<br />

pyramids.<br />

But the desert you pass in going to the Oasis is a real<br />

savage bandit of a desert, with fierce cliffs, overwhelming<br />

waves of sand, and plains of alkali white as the snow and<br />

Salter than the sea. At first it is mild-looking enough, with

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