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268 Oriental Cairo<br />

and furniture of Egyptian everyday life, which were many of<br />

them so very like our own, especially the stools and chairs ;<br />

the Pharaohs sat up like white men they ; did not squat like<br />

Orientals. Of charms, and bead necklaces, and scarabs there<br />

are, of course, no end. I have already remarked the fact that<br />

numbers of the scarabs in the Museum, taken out of tombs by<br />

antiquaries themselves, and otherwise to be recognised as<br />

genuine by experts, appear to the untutored eye coarse, ugly,<br />

modern imitations: it is impossible to judge a scarab unless<br />

you are an expert.<br />

Unfortunately I have never seen scarabs offered for sale in<br />

that most delightful part of the Museum, the Salle de Vente.<br />

Here the Director has exposed for sale (the proceeds of which<br />

go to help the fund for excavation) all the antiquities which<br />

the Museum does not wish to keep, because it has sufficient<br />

specimens of them. Whenever I went into the Museum,<br />

I made a point of visiting the Salle de Vente to see if there<br />

were any fresh bargains. One day I found that they had<br />

more than a hundred of the little glazed pottery gods an inch<br />

or two high, for which I had been looking in vain from the<br />

first day that I entered the Museum. I bought them all ex-<br />

cept ten. There are always necklaces of mummy-beads for<br />

sale, and the little clay Ushapti images which were buried<br />

with people, little statues of clay, bronze, and wood from two<br />

inches to two feet high ; mummy<br />

cases ; canopic vases ; silver<br />

coins, chiefly of Alexander the Great ; and so on. The<br />

museum prices are moderate, and it goes without saying that<br />

every object sold is genuine. The Museum of Antiquities is<br />

one of the most delightful places in Cairo.<br />

The Arab Museum, which is housed in a fine new<br />

building in the Saracenic style, near the Governorat, cannot<br />

be called so interesting as the Museum of Egyptian<br />

Antiquities, nor is it very extensive. Its principal glory is<br />

its collection of crystal mosque lamps of the Middle Ages.<br />

It is said to be the finest collection of old Moslem glass<br />

in existence ; and these antique crystal lamps, with their<br />

blue and gold inscriptions, which swung in the mosques of<br />

Cairo with their value unrecognised, almost unheeded, are

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