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ROD-EL-FARAG<br />

CHAPTER XXVIII<br />

Rod^el'Farag and Shubra<br />

is the grain port of Cairo, and Shubra<br />

was until recently the garden suburb, in which pashas,<br />

and other rich people, had palace-like villas surrounded<br />

by gardens of deep tropical verdure. The very extensive-<br />

ness of these gardens proved their downfall. It offered such<br />

opportunities to the jerry-builder, and pashas were not a<br />

class who let sentimental considerations weigh with them.<br />

Nor indeed did many of them let business considerations<br />

weigh with them sufficiently to secure the price of the<br />

estates, with which they were parting, before the speculator<br />

grubbed up their gardens and marked them out in allot-<br />

ments. They were so ruthlessly dug up that if seeds were<br />

supplied with sufficient lavishnes.s, quite wonderful agricultural<br />

results might be produced.<br />

To get to Rod-el- Farag and Shubra, you have to cross<br />

a very steep bridge behind the railway station in the tram.<br />

At first you pass some rather nice houses, but the road<br />

soon hurries into chopped-up patches of building-land, from<br />

which you take some time to escape if you are in the<br />

Rod-el-Farag tram.<br />

Rod-el-Farag is a place of no beauty. You only go<br />

to it to see some interesting phases of native life, and to<br />

be reminded of the infinitely more picturesque grain port<br />

at Assuan. The buildings are low and mean, the side<br />

walks and even the road, except that part over which tramways<br />

fly at short intervals, are occupied by people who<br />

have been grain-porters and are now asleep. As the<br />

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